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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by hilslamer, Sep 2, 2007.
Short answer is yes - as a quality 3/8" ratchet will likely have a torque limit close to 200Nm.
I just went thru this thread and learned a lot. One thing I don’t understand is why you would carry the T handle 3/8 rather than a racket. I wigged my ratchet and it is 320g which is only ~150g heavier than T handles I found on amazon. I think it has a lot more flexibility for tight spaces and is worth the extra weight. Am I missing some other advantage to the T?
They are actually all 1/4" drive. I don't carry any 3/8".
First, I have never needed a ratchet for a trail repair. But I also use a 1/4" tee handle in the garage a lot. In the garage I remove most stuff with an 18v 1/4" impact and replace with a tee handle. It's just what I've gotten used to with a KTM where almost everything is 8mm or 13mm. I just don't need a lot of tools.
Second, aside from being my ratchet, my tee handle and L-wrench double as my extensions, screwdrivers and hex keys. So, they eliminate other tools. Third, the folding tee handle and L-wrench pack very small. I can fold a stock KTM tool bag in half with my whole tool kit in it.
My goal was functional minimalist rather than a tool for anything and everything.
I'm a lot faster with a T. My T is much smaller than a ratchet. But I still have a palm ratchet because sometimes that is nice, too.
I wouldn't use a ratchet to remove or replace high-torque fasteners like axle nuts. That's asking for a failure way back in there somewhere. A combo tar arn/wrench is my choice for that job.
The heel of a boot does wonders for applying torque to a small wrench
Oh I'm glad that link still works! Yep I remember getting mine in a mere few days... Japanese efficiency! Happy I was of some help
Your lightweight toolkit is great. I think I need to copy it... So simple. Minimal moving parts.
Can you do a full post of what's in it, including that ziplock bag?
Tusk L-Wrench (1/4" socket short end and 1/4" bit holder long end) - my screw and hex driver, short ratchet and breaker bar
6" Knipex Gear plier - my adjustable wrench, pliers and vice grips
17-13, 12/14 8/10 Litetools wrenchs - the 12/14 is a bit of a waste on a KTM except the 12 fits my MP Litelok rim locks
Tusk folding mini tee - my long ratchet and with a 1/4 socket also holds screw and hex bits
sockets: 1/4" (for bits), 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 13mm
four regular and phillips screw bits, four hex bits (for every hex bolt on the bike except the large oil screen)
Tusk thin wall plug socket (rubber inside to grip the plug) with a 1/4" adapter stuck in it
Ziplock bag has:
a couple of feet of duct tape and a couple of feet electrical tape minus the rolls
several feet of safety wire
several zip ties
valve stem puller
spare seat, shifter and tank bolts (ones I'm most likely to lose working on it)
On the bike:
spare shifter zip tied inside the airbox
MP tire spoons with axle wrench ends (taped to subframe or in a WM bag)
Airshot inflater under the seat (EarthX battery made room)
font tube (fender pack or WM bag)
There is a lot of stuff I would carry if I were a long distance rider. But this has been fine for weekend warrior use. I have yet to come up short on a ride. My original inspiration for doing it this way was my first stock KTM tool kit.
Coming from Japanese bikes, I was shocked it only had two wrenches, three sockets, a tee handle, plug wrench and linemen pliers. But I pretty quickly figured out that really was enough. So I basically just upgraded that kit a little.
I would agree, and personally that's what I use.
I was only answering the the OPs specific question - and any quality 3/8" ratchet is more than capable of tightening to 60Nm.
But if the OP wants to change it up, then I would swap out the 3/8" drive and sockets for a lighter 1/4" drive kit and buy the Motion Pro T6 wrenches mentioned many times in this thread.
Or even a big wrench. Legs tend to be bigger than arms.
Given the last few posts, I was curious about the torque capacity of the Tekton/DeWalt stubby combination ratchets shown in my post on 9/26. I couldn't find this spec. online so I wrote both Tekton and DeWalt. Tekton got right back to me and said simply "We do not have a maximum torque value for these wrenches. When used by hand, it should never be reached." Dewalt hasn't gotten back to me after a couple days.
I was still curious what sort of torque you could generate with these very short - 4" overall length - wrenches so I set up a quick test with a digital torque wrench I've got. See below pic. Using the 13mm ratchet I was able to generate about 30Nm. This was basically pulling as hard as I could on the wrench with one hand (needed the other to take the pic!). You probably could get a bit more with both hands. It didn't seem to be stressing the ratchet at all.
As I mentioned in my other post, you can gang up these wrenches - inserting the closed end of one through the open end of another (see pic) - this will give you more mechanical advantage so you could exceed 30Nm. But, this is obviously not an "official" use mode, so all bets are off in terms of what might fail (bending, ratchets, etc.). I have dedicated MotionPro tire irons/axle-nut wrenches, so I'm not going to put these little guys to the test there (those nuts need 80Nm). But, 30Nm seems pretty acceptable for a lot of other uses.
Using my 6 inch socket wrench, i found it difficult to free a wheel stud torqued to 60 nm. Trying to keep the 50T seated in the stud while pressing down on the ratchet wasn’t easy. I cut 7 inches off 3/4 inch diameter steel tubing whose inside diameter fît snuggly on my ratchet’s round handle. I can store it over the ratchet’s handle without taking up excessive tool bag space. The mechanical advantage makes stud removal easy and controlled.
I heated the tubing to cherry red followed with a dip in used motor oil. This gives it a nice bluing and adds to rust resistance.
There's always room in the toolbox for a good cheater pipe. I've stood on the end of the wrench if I can't break it loose by hand trying to get the axle nut loose.
Man... 60nm isn't that tight. Grease the threads periodically and ensure it's torqued to spec at home, and cracking it loose should be no problem.
The threads are supposed to be dry. That said, my 1/4" Wera wrench removes 60nm lug bolts easily enough.
Which would be better, a T handle 3/8, or a regular ratcheting 3/8 wrench? Specifically for removing lug nuts. I've got 1/4 for everything else. But that is the one area I need to address.
Neither? What bike? Torx, Hex, Allen?
If you're going to use a socket/bit of some kink I'd probably lean toward a 3/8" breaker bar, possibly one with a cut down handle to keep the pack size down, and an extension for the handle.
I keep bike specific tool kits on my GS and WRR but this little kit goes from bike to bike. I keep it in the tank bag. It takes care of most minor things without digging out the tool roll. Plus it gave me an excuse to get one of those Chapman sets.
Had to go and show off another cool tool set.
This thread keeps costing me money.....
Anyone know of motion pro ever released this prototype ti tool?