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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by hilslamer, Sep 2, 2007.
2:00 for Tiny Tool Time. I carry the 125 mm model on my bike, and the equivalent plier wrench.
As well as proper wrenches, of course.
Squee! It's so cute!
That won't remove an axle nut.
I don't carry your typical wrench at all. I carry (3) T-6 combo levers (2 different spoon/size combos to cover the axle nuts and steering stem nut, and a 12/13 combo) and a Knipex 150mm pliers wrench. Everything else is covered by sockets or bits. So far this has worked for me.
The CruzTools 22/32 mm steel combo wrench fits the front & rear axle nuts on my Honda, and is slim enough to clear the front fork lugs. Unlike the aluminum Motion Pro tire lever/wrench, it can take the 92 ft.lbs of torque on the rear without bending. The 14 mm is an afterthought, but it could still be useful if I couldn't get a Knipex plier wrench somewhere. : )
I like those wrenches. I carried one for years on my 640. It's a nice tool.
But I relegated it to the garage toolbox drawer in favor of MP aluminum wrench/spoons for my EXC anyway. I save the steel wrench for routine garage maintenance.
The one full pound I saved by ditching steel tire levers and steel axle wrench matter to me. My entire tool kit only weighs two pounds. So losing 1/3 of my tool weight makes a difference.
I still have aluminum tire levers. I'll eat the weight of the steel tool for the knowledge that I won't be holding a bent lollipop with a forlorn look on my face. If I could find a stronger-than-MP 32 mm aluminum wrench, I might try it.
How much torque does your rear axle need?
92 lb/ft. The MP T6 is rated to 90 lb/ft.
Not enough margin for me, with some being bent in use on that nut.
Ah...that explains it.
I've been following this thread for a while now, maybe a year or so. I've read through most of the pages, if not all. I was originally building a kit for my DRZ, but now I'm using this thread to build small kits that are a combination of general usage (metric) and scenario specific supplements. I had the pleasure of putting together a kit, then taking it to work and showing it off to another rider buddy. That night, our office was broken into, and I was able to start over again once my renter's insurance check came in...
Here's a photo of that outcome (minus a few minor things...):
Not pictured: a WERA Zyklop 1/4" kit I just got via Prime Day (not sure if I'll keep that in my truck, or in a saddlebag),
I try to ride with a FAK every time I go out.
The orange MAGPUL bag goes with me everywhere, usually in a pocket, or a saddlebag. The mini Knipex and Crescent fit in that bag, along with the yellow Chapman MFG kit.
The gray MAGPUL bag is a secondary kit. Tie wire, and some stubby drivers. Probably going to put some of this into my truck toolkit.
I'm still editing this down, but it's an ongoing project.
Thanks all for the initial inspiration, and the even further inspiration.
That is an insane rear wheel torque. My EXC is either 54 or 60 ft-lbs. I can't remember which. But either way it isn't enough to worry about those aluminum wrenches.
I clearly made the noise of it getting my nut off
I carry both ;-) The steel one on my AT with the high axle torque where weight isn't an issue and I don't need spoons, and the MP ones on my DRZ where weight is an issue and I need spoons; and the axle torque is lower. The right tool for the job in each scenario.
Ordered One of those Small knipex's It will fill the need for a better tool to remove a nail from a tire and then some.
Nice addition. I bought one of these and its been a great addition to my pack
Although not necessarily a tool you would carry on the bike, I am interested in everyone's tips for screw extraction tools. I had a bear of a time removing two stripped phillips/JIS screws from under the fender of my DR650 yesterday and part of the problem was available tools (and perhaps the operator of those tools added to the challenge). I was using something like this, but access and getting good purchase was a big part of the problem.
What are your favorite bolt / screw extractors?
last one I did involved an angle grinder to remove the head of a bolt - not the most elegant solution but it always works.