As I read this thread I thougt that I have the old footpegs from my Beta XTrainer, and 30 minutes later, after a little grinding - done [/IMG]
By the way; Is there someone who can sell me a good TT(1989) rear shock? A non-original one is also fine, as long as it fits the TT :)
Got a new set of Kriega bags for my birthday, some testfitting to see how it sits on my bike and if my camping stuff will fit,
I like the use of O/E items - means the screen is less likely to break into sharp pieces if struck and the edge has that nice rounded feature. Having smaked my head across the bridge of my nose with an open visor in a crash on a screen, the thought using many of the aftermarket products with sharp edges and brittle materials is very unnerving. Good solution there
Hi, guys, I have a 2004 TT 600 RE which, all of a sudden, only idles (high) with the choke applied and stops immediately as I turn off the choke or twist the throttle. I'm guessing it's some jet clogged up (had changed the carb boots, which had a leak, and the bike was running great), but, since I will take the carb out again (pain in the a), I'd like to also renew as many parts as possible. So, can anyone confirm if the XT600 carb has interchangeable parts (like these) with the TTRE's? I can't seem to find a carb kit with needles, jets and emulsifiers specifically for the TTRE. Thank you very much!
Hi @tscham, I'm not a carb expert by any stretch, but I thought that the carbs on the XT's were a smaller size than the TT & therefore running a different jetting to yours. The kit you posted a link to looks very similar to the one I used on my XT. I'll see if I can find a similar TT version. Sounds to me like the pilot circuit (I think that's what it's called) or enrichener? Might have a little blockage in there perhaps. try cleaning & checking carefully #45, under the little cover on the left side primary carb under the little cover #23 (watch out you don't loose the little 'itty bitty bits' in the process!!!) give that & the passage inside a squirt with carb cleaner etc. Not sure if this is exactly the same model carb as yours but should be close ...:
perhaps along these lines: Basic Kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fits-Ya...hash=item1a98caecbe:m:m9EK4kEKg7RutZBvdV2IfkA Air Cut Off - Enrichener: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AIR-CUT...582216?hash=item1ce9804648:g:1boAAOSwqJReSqaE Haven't used this before, don't know anything about it but just found in a search: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-...rburetor-Carb-Stage-1-3-Jet-Kit-/233005790797 @JensEskildsen posted some great info years back in another forum take a look there - He recommended Kedo back then & they seem to still have a pretty decent range try pages 13 & 14 @ Kedo & then hopefully someone else will chime in with some more specifics. Hope you get it sorted out!!
There were times when my slow jet was clogged - number 38 on the page posted above. You should clean it precisely. Didn't know why this happened - ran a fuel filter, cleaned the carb lots of times (never used a ultrasonic cleaner, though). This never happens on my DRZ and I don't even use a fuel filter on my fuel line. Weird stuff.
Yes it will almost certainly be the pilot jet clogged with dirt or varnished up. The TTR600 carb is essentially the same as XT600 3TB 1990 onwards carbs with the primary venturi slightly larger and different needles/ jets. Providing the bike is running well other than the idle, the only things I would purchase and replace are #6 float bowl gasket, #43 float needle valve assembly as is always good to remove/ replace the integral fuel filter under the valve seat. Be very careful removing the float pin as can easy break the pin supports if use too much force! #16 choke tube O ring Genuine yamaha parts are the best quality for these Other than a very good clean out of the pilot jet ,main jets on primary/ secondary fuel bowl and float valve/ filter I wouldnt mess with anything else. Always make sure you drain the fuel bowl if the bike is going to sit for more than a 2 weeks as the fuel will dry up in the fuel bowl and leave varnish deposits and cause trouble!
Thank you very much for your tips! Will certainly clean the enricher diaphragm and circuit first, as I wouldn't need to take the carb out! Once again, thank you for the time you lost replying!! If cleaning the enricher doesn't work, will order the basic kit to check if there's a difference and at least try something more than just cleaning. Thank you so much!! Thanks for replying. Absolutely! Also put a fuel filter, specifically to prevent having to take the carb out again... Now this.. Not sure if the holes are much smaller in these jets.. Thank you for replying! Hopefully it's just something like that. What pisses me off is the fact that we need to take the whole carb out for a microscopic clog. Ok, I will only order the basic kit that comes with those parts (possibly not yamaha, cause the prices are sky high). The bike was stopped for a few weeks while waiting for a new regulator. Didn't even know I should've emptied the bowl! Thanks for the advice! I have only one last question: do you guys know of an easier way to take the carb out/make more room? I read somewhere one could actually unscrew the bottom end of the subframe and lift it to gain more room between the air filter boots and the carb.
As for the carb issue: i had the same prblems with my TTR after a short highwayride, turned out the needle of rhe primary carb broke, and the bottom part fell in the jet. It started and idled, but died when i gave it a little throttle. Maybe check that before ordering parts? I always tilt the subframe up when removing the carb, i takes a little time and saves a lot of frustration.
Thanks for your reply! Uff, sure hope it didn't get to that. A new needle is at least 60 bucks + shipping, here in PT. Yep, will open the carb before ordering anything. Great, will tilt the subframe! It was horrible taking the carb out and back in. Used a greasy plastic sheet between the carb and boots to slide it into place and it was so time consuming.
Next weekend I'll take the carb out for cleaning. As recommended by some of you guys, I'll just lift the rear subframe to make some room. I'm guessing the oil tank stays in place while the rear subframe takes the airbox with it. Can anyone confirm that, in order to allow for the oil tank to stay in place while the rest moves, I only need to unscrew these 3 screws (+ 1 more on the other side)?: Thank you in advance!
EDIT: I just noticed yours is TTRE. The oil-tank is slightly different from the TTR. Honestly I can't remember if I loosened the oil-tank screws or not. But I've had my subframe off twice and can confirm the oil-tank stays in place. First time I just loosened/removed the obvious screws, wiggled to see what was left, loosened again, etc.. Don't forget the screws on top. And get yourself some silicone spray to slide the carb back onto the boots. It's a major pain to reset the whole thing.
I thought I'd read somewhere on here someone saying that they just undid the bottom subframe, loosened the top subframe & all the other bits like the airbox pipes & then swung the subframe up to access the carb, leaving the oiltank in place? But I don't remember for certain - It may have been a different brand/model like a WR or KTM something. (Just be glad that you don't have the XT with the the fixed Subframe - you have to dissasemble the airbox to remove it out of the frame to allow easier access to the carbs. It's 'possible' on the XT to remove the carbs by just sliding the airbox back a bit - but don't expect to keep the skin on your knuckles in the process.)
