The worst motorbike trip of my life (in NEPAL MUSTANG)

Discussion in 'Asia' started by mistergiloo, Jul 12, 2017.

  1. mistergiloo

    mistergiloo morbike.com

    Joined:
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    I have been traveling by motorbike mostly off-road for years to make you discover new destinations

    This time I was contacted by Alex Klein from Nepal Enduro Tours with his favorite slogan "we do not ride ... we thunderide !!! ".

    I had already ride 3 times in Nepal without much interest, but this time, Alex Klein aroused my curiosity by telling me about the Mustang. A small kingdom nestled in the north east of Nepal, which was forbidden for a long time to strangers.

    He convinced me by telling me that it was possible to ride with a motorbike prepared at over 6000m. I admit that at first I was very dubious about climbing so high but I let myself be convinced because alex asserted me that he had found a track to go even 6400m !!!!!! I had already driven very high but never at 6000m

    In short I left again for kathmandu with this new organization Nepal-Enduro-Tours

    I arrive in Kathmandu thinking to find my guide Alex Klein. There I feel a slight uneasiness. I am told that Alex is busy at the moment and then I discover after several questions that Alex Klein is not in Nepal and that it almost never comes ...

    So, I arrive the next day in the garage to take my bike "prepared" and pressing the start button ... nothing ... mechanics tinker motorbike and it starts ... cool
    So we start making petrol at 300 m away and wanting to start again ... nothing
    The mechanics arrive, cut off electrical wires, do short-circuits and they burned the charging part of my personal Gps which no longer recharge the battery now on the bike (I have to put now spare batteries)... thank you guys!

    In short, we are finally leaving. Around noon we stop for lunch and guess what ... impossible to restart my motorbike
    After 2 hours and some electrical wires cut, the motorbike finally restarts and we arrive in Pokhara

    The next day I am presented to a new guide to go to the Mustang area. But I am told that this guide does not ride on motorbike but will stay in the support 4x4 !!!!


    As for my permit to go to the north Mustang I am told that it will be ready at noon, then 2 pm then 4 pm and finally the next day!

    Face to my incomprehension to have a guide in a car, the organization sends me a new guide by plane from Kathmandu, a certain Bubendra who rides on a motorbike !!!! finally !
    I also learn that I would eventually have a mechanic on bike too. Very good but still no news regarding my permit to ride in North Mustang!

    In reality, the Mustang is divided into 2 parts, the north and the south. The southern part is free up to the town of Mukthinath but for having done it the landscapes are not beautiful and there is too much traffic so it does not really interest.
    On the other hand, the north part to the capital Lo-Manthang is very beautiful but it is absolutely necessary a special permit which costs $ 550 !!!!!


    So I have a guide who speaks English and who drives by motorbike but still no permit yet.
    facing my impatience and this inorganization I decide to leave anyway since the organization tells me that they will send me my permit by plane in a few days in Jomsom where there is a small airport.

    We drive to Mukthinath and already the bikes are already starting to have problems. I'll talk about it later.
    Arrived at Mukthinath I try the Thorong-La pass at 5400m but I know that I will not get there because of the bikes that already have big carburator problems since 3000m altitude.
    And indeed my motorbike finally stopped at 4100m ... impossible to go higher. what a pity !!!!
    We go down to Mukthinath, the mechanic does all he can (filter cleaning and carburetor, change of the candle, adjustments) but the problem is a design problem which was confirmed to me after my return to the garage of Kathmandu.

    Finally after 2 days of waiting in Jomsom city, we finally recover my permit as well as that of an unknown Australian !!!!!
    I think that the vacation of this person had to be spoiled ... well done the organization !!!!!!

    Shortly after the problem of the bikes we have this time to wait the 4x4 of assistance that is in the garage and that has big problems of gas filter.

    On the program of Alex Klein it is written that it takes 2 days (driving 6 to 7 hours a day) to go from Jomsom to Lo-Manthang ... We did it in 6h, including stopping for lunch 1h30 then another hour to have tea in a cafe !!!!

    Once in Lo-Manthang we saw mountains at over 6000m but as I thought it is impossible to climb so high on a motorbike ... it's just for climbers.
    Believe me, we searched and searched again but there is no trail to go so high cause the mountains are way too steep.

    So we turned back because in fact there is no track after Lo-Manthang (except one to go to China) and make the same journey back to Pokhara.
    It is impossible to get lost because there is actually only one road from Pokhara to Lo-Manthang with a fork to Jomsom to go to Mukthinath.

    Regarding motorcycles we have many problems (electric, carburettor, parts that break because of the vibrations) until the rear brake caliper broke in 2 !!! I had never seen it until now.
    These enduro bikes are beautiful but in fact these are Chinese products with quality that goes with ....

    Concerning the accommodation and the restaurants I let you judge on the photos ... a shame!
    When I asked the guide why you go to restaurants and "hotels" so crappy. He told me he was spending $ 150 a day for the group of five and he did not have enough money. In fact after checking it was only $ 65 a day that was what I called Mr Double. Whenever I asked for a price he said the double.

    The worst, is when the guide tells me at Lo-Manthang that I have to give him an "extra day" to the whole team (guide, mechanic, 4x4 driver).
    What is an extra day? He replied; it is a day off !!!!
    In fact I paid for 13 days of motorbike and the guide asks me to come back one day earlier than the schedule to have his "Day Off" .... Incredible but true. In my life I have never seen this!

    Anyway Alex Klein's program was not coherent and we returned with 3 days in advance.

    I let you see what I rode while in the program of Nepal Enduro Tours it was well indicated that we drove between 5 and 7 hours of motorcycle per day.

    Here is actually the reality on the ground because despite the fact that my Gps was no longer recharged on the bike, it continued to operate on batteries and therefore to record the tracks that are available for those who want it.

    16/04/2017 0 km
    17/04/2017 100 km in 4 hours
    18/04/2017 80 km in 5h
    19/04/2017 40 km in 2 hours
    20/04/2017 90 km in 5h
    21/04/2017 40 km in 1h30
    22/04/2017 70 km in 4 hours
    23/04/2017 45 km in 2 hours
    24/04/2017 95 km in 4h30
    25/04/2017 0 km
    26/04/2017 0 km
    27/04/2017 0 km

    Total 560 km in 12 days !!!!!!!!!

    And for all that or rather only that, I paid to Nepal Enduro Tours $ 5500 !!!! An unjustified fortune (and this obviously does not include the plane ticket)
    10 $ for each km !!!! amazing

    Yes Mr Alex Klein you are right when you say that with Nepal Enduro Tour: «We don’t ride»
    I have never spent as much money to make so few kilometers

    For those who want to make this trip it is quite possible to do it alone without organization. It is impossible to lose oneself because there is only one road that is made to go and return.
    If you want to use a REAL organization contact

    http://www.heartsandtears.com/upper-mustang
    http://www.vintagerides.travel/motorcycle-tour/nepal/
    http://motorcyclesandmountains.blogspot.fr/
    http://www.exploramoto.com/index.php?news=2535

    otherwise, go to the LADAKH where the landscapes are magnificent, where you will pass passes at more than 4000m and especially the Khardung-La pass at 5300m with motorbikes that really work and for a budget of $ 2000 for 15 days of bike.
    thanks
    #1
  2. flei

    flei cycletherapist

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    cool story, bro. pics or it didn't happen. :lol3
    #2
    phreakingeek likes this.
  3. mistergiloo

    mistergiloo morbike.com

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    #3
  4. motoace

    motoace Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2017
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    Somebody got paid.
    #4
  5. richamor

    richamor like that when I got here

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    322
    Location:
    Lancaster, SC
    and somebody got screwed.
    #5
    Migolito likes this.
  6. G-Tex

    G-Tex Sneaky Bastard

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Yikes...going to Nepal in October with Hearts and Tears...booked! Sounds like a shanda for you, so sorry about the experience!
    #6
    kiwial likes this.
  7. scrubb

    scrubb Master of Mayhem

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
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    391
    Location:
    San Diego
    Man, sounds like a horrible ordeal. You got the royale shaft while they got a big payday. Thanks for sharing so others can be wary of this business.
    #7
  8. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    time to disbute the cost with the credit card company
    #8
    ExplorerFrog and Jarlaxle like this.
  9. Chat Lunatique

    Chat Lunatique aka El Gato Loco

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    Hearts and Tears is good outfit, not to worry! I rented a 250 Crossfire from them last year to do solo riding up to Muktinath. Ran into their tour group while waiting for a landslide to be cleared. All the guys were happy and the bikes were in good shape
    #9