The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. benspilk09

    benspilk09 Adventurer

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    Has anyone bought any DC plastic for these bikes? I need a rear fender, it looks like they're the only source.

    How is the fitment/quality? Can you wetsand and buff them smooth?
    RFVC600R likes this.
  2. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R No sand here :'(

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    YO!
    20201217_100303.jpg
    bork likes this.
  3. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R No sand here :'(

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    20201217_100452.jpg It fits okay, IIRC I had to drill some. It's plastic, you can sand, paint, buff ect. Best thing I found and been using on my car and truck plastics is just sand smooth, clean em good too with soap and then acetone, dry completely then blast with a heat gun, melt the polymers and shit back in. Makes it look brand new and lasts. No oily chemicals and shit like those pricey restorarion creams. If you do the heat gun method make sure you get it really clean because any dirt that is Left behind is going to get suspended in the plastic permanently. Look up videos on YouTube
    dixda likes this.
  4. benspilk09

    benspilk09 Adventurer

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    Nice, looks like the fit is decent. Certainly will be a big step up from the broken junk I have now lol.

    How does it last fading wise? Comparable to OEM plastic? Or will it turn pink in a month?
    dixda likes this.
  5. benspilk09

    benspilk09 Adventurer

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    Has anyone ever replaced the fork bushings in the 39mm forks?

    These bikes don't show up in any catalog as far as I can tell. I can't find any bushing sets for sale. Does anyone sell them by size?
  6. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    you might check with xr's only and allballs, outside of them if honda dont have it i dont know who to check with...of course the forks were made by showa ......do they even sell parts?
  7. Norty01

    Norty01 Occupant

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    A long shot here, but try Harley. They had 39mm Showa forks on their Dyna and Sportster line, during the 1990's-2000's.
  8. benspilk09

    benspilk09 Adventurer

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    I finally got the lower bushing driven out, it took half a day of beating on it. It measures 50mm tall, and the wall thickness is 2mm. I don't know if I could get new ones driven in without destroying them. Its a tight fit and they are way down there.

    I did see the 39mm harley bushings, but had no luck finding what wall thickness and height they are.

    I just bought a used set of forks. They are pretty cheap, luckily. I don't think my bushing would have been bad had the previous owner not run them dry for so long.
  9. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    theres a few good tricks for running "deep" like that, if it were me id find something that fit "snug" inside, and then rig it up to some ABS pipe for initial push, then swap out the pipe for closet dowl
  10. dixda

    dixda Been here awhile Supporter

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    I have the 86/87 white. Fitment fair and plastic of good quality. I wish my super crap had not cut a piece out of my original .
  11. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    I haven't ever had mine apart. So I cant picture exactly what your up against, but could you get some hot & cold to shrink & swell, to aid in sliding out bushing?
  12. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    Here's an issue of getting a bushing out. Is this similar?
    Start at 2:50 to skip to the meat of video.
  13. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    Well I think I found the answer. Good ole D-Ray, I should have searched him first. BUT he doesn't show messin with the bushing. :( Also there is a continuation part 2 video.
  14. benspilk09

    benspilk09 Adventurer

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    I saw that video. I had no issue with the upper bushing, a few whacks with a slide hammer and it was free.

    The lower was EXTREMELY tight, all the way out. You have to drive it a good 8" as well before its free. My slide hammer wouldn't budge it, so I drove it through the damper rod bolt hole with a long screw driver. It took a lot of heat in the fork leg too.

    I don't think they are meant to be replaced. The upper bushing is copper, the lower is steel, and Honda doesn't show a lower bushing on the parts fische.

    The right side fork bushings both look like new, the left was leaking and had basically no oil, so I'm somewhat confident most people won't have this issue unless their forks are neglected for years.
  15. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    Hmmmm, I don't think I would attempt messing with the steel one.
  16. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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  17. adnohlla

    adnohlla n00b

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    I just recently ordered the dc plastics front and rear fender for my 83. Overall they are very nice quality from what I can see. The rear fender you have to drill a few holes that hold the blinker/brake light wires in place, the front also needs to be drilled for the four mounting holes under the triple tree. They can be sanded/cut /drilled just like the oem ones. the finish is really nice right out of the mold as is the color match to my 83. They also recommend using acetone to remove their protective wax coating before installing. The rear fender has a 2 pieces that are molded separately then riveted together unlike the original which was molded as one piece. I found that getting the license plate holder to fit may take a little to get it to sit correctly without having a large gap on top where the fender meets the plate holder.
    GSBruce and dixda like this.
  18. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R No sand here :'(

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    Man, after stewing on it in my truck for hours while work, those DC plastics are PRETTY JUNKY. Nothing like OE quality. I drilled holes for the fender reinforcement a few years ago, and its got a crack stemming from it from age. PLUS the colors are "off". They charged top dollar for low quality. Fuck those nerds.
  19. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    to keep the trap from doing it again, you need to play with some spacers on the pipe and the trap itself, i found moving it down about 2 inches pretty much fixed everything as well as pulling it in slightly...i can get pics if your intrested
  20. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    honestly if you can find "un broken" originals, just sand em down and PAINT them, the trick here is to use flexable priner(made for car bumpers) as well as alot of flex additive in the paint..again for car bumpers, and to keep it all THIN..as thin as possible..also id recomend using semi color matched primer

    if your hell bent on rattlecanning......use plastic adhesive promotor primer, and then tractor supply co brand paint, harvester red is a good match on hondas, i have done this a few times with amazing results, but the high gloss "shine" doesnt always last...but the abuse they can take is VERY good

    the big issue ive run into on plastics is multiple brand issue, how do you run a clarke tank, accerbis hand guards and headlight surround, and then get matching fenders...simple answer...you dont.....you paint everything but the tank and live with whatever color the tank changes to

    to be fair, my hand guards are originals from 1983 aftermarket, the front fender a mangled oe from an 84, the rear fender is a white one from 86, the headlight surround unknown vintage accerbis in WHITE...and the clarke tank is dated 1984, only the rear side panels seem to be OE
    RFVC600R likes this.