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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
the xls and pre 85? xrs...i think the 85s are 50/50 17/18 but the give away is aluminum arm=18 steel=17.... but both came with them, the 2.15 is from the xl250s, the xl350s used the 2.50 im pretty sure and i do have a bare hoop that isnt cracked or visibly bent, it aint perfect but its useable
17"? Maybe we can make trade... I would just be a set of spokes away from a 17" front wheel.
yeah i gutted it for its hub, it had a cush drive in it, i was told its an 84 xl250 but the hub made me wonder if it was more like an 82, as i know honda did a bunch of weird stuff forom81-83 with the xls the hub is actualy slimmer than a later unit
i hung onto it for the same idea of a 17 front but....with so many sets of wheels n tires for both my xl6 and xr250 it would be pointless to make a 17 at this point, so yeah i can let it go
Saw gas in XL...
...stuck carb needle
I had a little saw gas left over and didn't want to let it sit and go bad, so I put in the XL (don't have a crappy riding mower to run it in).
I didn't run it all out, so it sat for a couple months with a little saw gas still in the carbs. I guess the gasoline evaporated and left mostly oil behind, as evidenced by the blue puddles left in the carb bowls. I pulled the bowls after trying to ride it and not being able to get much over an idle before it would cut out. Secondary carb needle was stuck, gooey oil had it pretty good.
Not really a problem for most people, but if you have a saw or other 2-cycle small engines and have some fuel left over at the end of the season, it's not a good idea to dump it in yer bike. I have a crappy little 2-cycle moped now, so that'll serve as old fuel disposal from here on out.
I have to drain the fuel from my carbs if the XL sits for more than a week or I get jelled up gas in the jets. I believe it is the high humidity of living on the coast and the ethanol additive in the fuel.
Fortunately, we've got several stations that sell E0 here, and that's all I run, in everything. I add some STA-BIL if they're to sit for more than a month. I've had fuel degrade in a month to the point it caused poor running. Don't know how long it's been sitting in the stations tanks.
I've been away half a year and have several vehicles that I filled with E0 fuel, STA-BIL, and charged then disconnected the batteries. After getting back, toping off the batteries, everything fired right up. Even the XL, although it had that stuck needle on the secondary carb.
It's much more difficult to track down E0 fuel while traveling, but checking the pure gas website helps a lot.
ive actualy got the other end of that issue, if i cut the fuel on thexl6 or my wifes 400ex then next time i turn the fuel on, they will leak fro 6-36 hours before sealing back up, so i run stabil or royal purple in every can, tho i double dose more often than not, the royal purple gets used every 5th refil of the 6 gal can sets so after every 50 gal thru the pair,the royal purple has a fuel system cleaner in it that actualy works VERY well on small carbs i even run it thru the mower once a year, i havnt had to get into the carbs on either of them for a few years now
cutting the fuel has 2 issues, seals dry out and fuel will always leave a film behind that WILL eventualy leave crap in the jets so IMO cutting fuel is almost always bad, ive been wondering about a splash of 2 stroke to keep the seals lubed , sorry to say im glad to hear someone tryed it so i dont have to LOL
sure E0 is nice if you dont have to go way out of your way, of course ive been running costo's super in my bikes for a couple years now since the 6 and 400ex both run considerably better on it, and i can get it cheeper than i can get the cheep crap anywhere else
Yeah, I figured if carbed 2T bikes deal with it sitting, then why not the XL. A little extra top end lube before parking it couldn't be a bad thing...so I thought. Saw and line trimmer carbs are a whole different story, and I don't like leaving fuel sit in them over winter.
I had a DT400 that could sit for a month at a time and start first kick. The moped I have can do the same. I think the last can of fuel I mixed was with synthetic oil. Maybe that makes a difference when something with a carb sits for a while. Don't know, but won't put any of it in the XL again. Definitely had blue oil left in the carbs.
not sure there, i can let my xl sit for seriously extended periods IE months and still get her to start first or second kick, we useualy dont ride all summer but ride every weekend in the winter so she useualy sits from june/july till sept/oct depending on how the weathers been..
wet keeps the dust down!
Hmm, I didn't know this. Is dust the biggest factor or temperature? How cold is winter? Damp?
dust is mostly the factor, add to that the "more" ppl out riding as well as potential fire closures and heat vs protection gear, we ride together so one of us WILL be eating dust all day
vs winter/fall/spring, its rarely cold enough to even need the heated grips except at higher elevations, its mostly wet/cool, few ride all winter, its really nice to get to the staging area and find NO ONE around, rarely any form of dust
to us the only down side to fall/winter/spring riding is the amount of daylight
Can someone help me with thread size and pitch on the front axle. Mine threads need cleaning up and I am thinking 15mm but need conformation. No clue on the pitch but I can gauge it if I have to. Also anyone got a ingenious way to mount a OEM knockoff tail light in the new dc plastic fender. I did pick up an xl 650 tag/tail light at barber last weekend and with a dremel I think I might could get a mounting system. The tag/light mount for mine 84701- mg2-670 was mia. Maybe someone has one to part with? I am kinda OEM type of guy and sprung for the new plastics and tail light. I know I am needy but anyone have a picture looking down on the bars of the choke handle. I realized I could not use a handle assembly on the left with mirror mount as the choke handle mounts with the clutch handle screw and the threaded boss interferes with it. Advice suggestions appreciated.
your left side controls SHOULD have a perch built in, if not find one...there just isnt room...the other option would be bar ends or replacing the de-comp perch with a brake perch that does have the mirror hole and then mod the lever
Itching to ride... Need to ride... Bike is just sitting there... UGH! Too bad its none opped, I dont feel like dying in crazy city traffic
I did some damage to my truck offroading, got hung up a boulder I didn't see, very expensive mistake between offroad recovery and putting various scracthes and dents all it. I sprung for a whole paint job. once my truck is out of the body shop Im gonna go rip on the XL
did you use the 18 inch xr wheel or did you keep the 17 inch xl ,I know this is a old post but I recently bought a xr swing arm and a 18 xr wheel for my xl600 frame , I did this build over the winter of 2018 and finished spring 2019 and I agree even though I put a xr350 rear shock it was not enough and sits low, I know its not a xr frame but it looks like you made some big improvements, I also have the xr shock but it is not the remote style resevior its off a 1993.just wondering if you kept the 17 inch for the cush drive which is what I really dont want to give up.
the best option for 18 would be to snag one from the new africa twin.....
however 18inch options as they stand, re-lace and keep your cush, or toss the cush and go xr
imo the best route is the africa twin its a big fat 18 with disc, but it will cost you deeply and most of us shoestring budget, so the next best is to take an XR arm and "split" it to widen it slightly stuff a cush drive in it and have it re-welded, and then re-lace the 17 to an 18, this was my route. i did get lucky and found a nice used 80s kawi rear 18 hoop that was a DID so it looks stone stock
so I could use the xrl swing arm if I split it to open it up relace my 17 cush hub to a 18 xrl and reweld up the arm hmmm im prety handy and all but I never split a arm , how much of a slice did you have to do,? did you use a angle grinder? if I was to go that route the 1st would be to relace the 17 hub to my 18 so I know exactly how much is needed to slice it and spread it correct?? can you send me some close up pics of your set up when you can? thanks again for the reply!. since I have the xrl arm,wheel and shock I was leaning to just go that route the cush really isn't that important to me as is being able to stop when I need to.lol honestly drum brakes are horrible.
youll laugh but i took an 85+(pre 85s are short and steel) xr arm stuffed a car scissor jack in it till i t"popped" and had a local inmate re-weld it with a bare cush hub bolted down in it, looking back i would have lightly cut all of the CHAIN side yoke welds, i took alot of measurements before hand, and the non chain side does NOT need to move, the 17 hub you re-use and you just order up 18" laces from buchanon wheel, ive put alot of abuse on the arm with zero issues, ive got a few sets of wheels i swap out to so i go from 17-18 on a whim as ive got some 90/10 17 rubber i love for the street, a real nice 17 sand tire and 17/18 knobbys depending on whats going on
i belive another inmate on here recently did the same
if i were to do it again i dont think id bother to measure, just open up the yoke on the chain side, slide the hub in add 1/4+ of extra spacer to accomidate shrinkage of the arm when its welded back together and be done with it, it really is that simple, youll need a chain with an aditional 5-8 links
Where can one get new bushings for the cush drive? Mine are beat to hell