The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    sorry, i just hit up my local honda shop, the now sales manager was working there as a kid when he sold us my first bike in 1980...alot of that place knows me by name on sight..so i dont mind a slightly higher price on some stuff

    i do about 50/50 online, the honda specific stuff thats not NLA, gear, grips, and stuff i want to SEE before i buy i get from them the rest comes from all over the web, more often than not if you let em know you can get it for X they will cut the price down to match or as close as they can
  2. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    Thanks, that was my next step, contacting my local dealer.

    On edit: I asked my local dealer if they would do better on parts & surprise! They did! I checked them against Cheap Cycle Parts & they did better than CCP!
  3. builtbyluke

    builtbyluke n00b

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    I’m racing the mint 400 in March on my 86 xl600r. Planning on using xr600 suspension front and rear. I just rebuilt the top end. About to buy a Ricky stator. Otherwise stock.

    What advice would you guys give me for power upgrades and suspension suggestions?
  4. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    oh hellyeah go big!

    it depends on how deep you want to go and how...semi stock you want to stay?

    the big xr forks would be good as for the swinger id probably look to the late 600r with the disc brake, go with whatever year has the LONGEST swinger

    the biggest thing i can tell you is take a weekend to dial the fork oil to YOU, even if that means doing a custom mix, i had access to a farm and built a "test" track of sorts, tho it was less of a track and more of a bunch of jumps banks and woops randomly placed on access roads, the BEST thing i found for suspension tuning was my 8ft table top, and a "log" section that was all random so you couldnt "rhythm" it , i also had a high speed 4ft ramp dug in that would send up up real nice...between the 3 it let me test the fork oil, start with say 15wt and go shake it down, get off grab something to drink, fire it back up and do it again..if it feels "harsh" then drain em and goto 10, keep repeating this till it gets too soft at that point do a 50/50 mix with the 2 neerest weights, doing this can actualy make the STOCK xl6 forks work soo well that you dont bother swapping to the xr's....think of it as adjusting the damping to your ride style, and the rebound to your body weight...it seriously does amazing things, taking a "break" and re-running will keep you un-biased to what you "think" vs what you "feel"

    once youve got the front dialed start dialing in the rear

    as far as mods, i dont know that id shoot for a bunch of power but shoot for reliability, so a BIG cooler, free-ish flowing exhaust, and if the company who was doing the "big fin" mod to the jugs is still doing it DO THAT
    you might consider a rebuild which will FORCE you to do an overbore and bump the comp, i did out of blowing the stocker, and boy did it wake it up even on the stock cam....which...with all the weird feedback i read up on between trashed heads snapped cams and such im tooooo chicken to swap out my cam for any reason unless something breaks and forces my hand

    something to consider would be a hyd conversion for the clutch lever for "reliability"
  5. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    Welcome to the forums Luke! Great to hear your racing the Mint 400. ShortLife pretty much summed it up. Try to put a bunch of time on it to get used to the speed & handling characteristics. and get familiar with hot restarts, just in case. Hope someone gets some pics of this! You riding with a video, so you can show off the passing of new bikes? They have a vintage class for you? Good Luck! Keep in touch!
  6. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    yeah totaly keep us posted..we need pics and vid if possible

    i modeled mine to try and replicate a baja 1k bike i saw at the dealer back in 84/85..so your doing what mine looks like it was setup for as a "factory entry" not the full blown crazyness of the new stuff where the showroom model shares nothing with the race version
  7. builtbyluke

    builtbyluke n00b

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    @sh0rtlife - THANK YOU! Such great info. I'll look into the big fin mod as well as the longer swingarm. I think you are totally right about reliability vs power. For me winning the race is finishing, and finishing is reliability. I think a few tasteful mods will be plenty. The bike already rips.

    I at least plan to smoke the harley hoonigan class. No way the 700 pound twin pigs can keep up with this thing lol!

    Yes! I'm going to use a gopro 360 camera.

    I plan on riding every weekend if I can up until the race, and riding hard. I pretty much only ride vintage bikes and I've learned the more you ride, the more problems you uncover to fix, eventually making your bike bulletproof.

    I'm gonna buy this oil cooler: https://suttoncycleworks.com/xr600r-plp. Open to suggestions.

    Yes. Planning on keeping the bike looking stock.
    And yes, they have a vintage-modern class that only 2 guys rode in last year. I and a group of experienced vintage enthusiasts are all hauling out from Chattanooga TN to race it. One of the guys coming has done the baja kit like you mentioned, big metal tank and seat, XR suspension, etc. He's racing the Mexican 1000 on it this year.

    I just put a brand new head from engine dynamics on the bike. Plan on riding until fall, then pull the motor, new piston w/bore, cam, and a fresh coat of paint.

    Should I start a thread for this?
  8. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    get a clarke tank!!!! i forgot that

    on the cooler there are probably less expensive options out there, if you want to stay stock looking you put an XR "neck" cooler on it

    my thoughts swing to reliability as well, in something like a long haul enduro reliability wins, everything else is rider ability

    add a swingarm rebuild/checkup to your engine pull heck id honestly gut the bike to the bone and inspect EVERYTHING, all of the engine seals are cheep so are the wheel bearings, i dont know the cost on the swingarm rebuild but i think its worth doing and at the point the only moving part youve not adressed would be the head stock bearings

    if you want to goto the xr forks theres a few options..if you want to stay stock with you guages and oe faring then imo your only option is to have the headset bored to accept the xr forks, any descent machinist can do this for cheep

    me personaly if i was doing this, i think my bikes ready save for the xr fork swap and a fully rebuilt xr shock with reservoir revalved of course

    this would be my build list if someone said "your going" and i had to build a new bike
    vintage style long supertrap, acerbis elba headlight OR better the acerbis afrika twin with LED swap, clarke tank, late 80s drum brake xr swinger cracked open and widened to take the xl hub(best drum brake ever), rear re-laced to 18, my own personal "tuck" of the OE signals(go down hard break nothing), vintage aluminum yamaha street bike controls(durability), modified 650l header(slightly better flow), xr reservoir style rear shock, xr forks(do they make emulator valves or anything for these?), overbore and compression bump, big fin, WIDE pegs(klr?), neck cooler, trail tech reg/rec unit and single smaller reg rec for each light, ricky stator, new braided steel brake lines, acerbis non metal full wrap hand guards(bent metal smashes hands plastic bounces back), renthal bars, new seat skin and posible foam mod(not height but cushioning), progrip 714 dualsport rally grips(best anti fatigue ive found without the sacrafices), accerbis afrika twin tail(if one can be found), one of my otterbox gps phone mounts, oil line mod, new foam air filter oe style, fork oil to suit, your choice of rubber, all new cables from motion pro including speedo(they will custom make what they dont have so they can add i to the list), led bulbs thruout, digital flasher unit, lipo battery or cap pack, tubelis front at the very least
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  9. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    i dont think there is a need for a new thread, its still an xl6 at the end of the day, and it will keep this place hoppin, but as an added bonus its all in here and not lost out in some sub catagory, so anything good/bad from it helps everyone...if you want to do an external post tho by all means(i personaly would do both and just copy past the meat)
    builtbyluke likes this.
  10. builtbyluke

    builtbyluke n00b

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    Perfect. Clarke tank was already on the list!

    Thank you so much for the list friend, that is extremely helpful! I want to keep everything as close to period as possible. So the drum brake mod makes perfect sense.
    - Would you go with a wiseco 101?
    - What do you mean by "oil line mod"?
    - I'm curious, why a tubeless front tire? Isn't that less reliable than a tube for as many hard knocks it will take in the desert? (I've never ridden in the desert, so excuse my ignorance)

    Thanks again! I'm researching all of this and stocking my shopping carts!
  11. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    imo the wiseco 101 is the only option short of spending a TON of money...and..its exactly what im running, are their lighter ones..sure...but imo you cant go wrong with it

    tube-lis not tubeless , the reliability is...to die for as it leaves you with a tubeless tire thats basicly glued to the wheel, got a flat? toss a plug in it air up and keep going, your other option would be the bibmouse or nitro mouse or whatever they are calling it today...i run out in the woods, loggin roads jeep trails some single track, but these logging roads are easily 100years old many no longer used by the trucks..only the crazy jeeps atvs and bikes, some of the stuff is down right BRUTAL on tires, sharp big rocks, landslides, mud, snow, roads with gravel the size of your fist all the way down to what may as well be sand slurry, ive killed too many tubes to count on both ends, the tubeless has done me VERY well since the install on the front, ive yet to swap the rear to an 18 as i want to re-gold my wheels first.....which is a good time to note..if you want an OE "wide" 18 look for an old yamaha wheel with the right spoke count..something of the same vintage it will be a D.I.D., at which point you call up buchannon spokes down in cali and have them make you up 18inch spokes for your 17inch hub they have the measurements, also theres a couple of writeups for keeping the OE cush drive in an XR swingarm, the last one isnt too far back and is basicly what i had allready done, should also be a writeup on a hone i made to re-surface the brake drum which makes a MASSIVE differance along with new shoes
    http://nitromousse.com/
    http://tubliss.com/tubliss/

    oilmod...
    youll have to dig, but i recall someone posting a writeup in these pages about an oil line mod between the case and the head to help flow more oil to the head by drilling something out it wasnt by a huge amount but seemed like a solid idea to help keep the cam cool

    2 addon thoughts,
    heavy duty clutch springs and clutch, and...if you dig around in here youll find someone has a template for a flywheel lightening setup or may still be doing the work for ppl

    what were you planning for tires?
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  12. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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  13. Cord

    Cord Adventurer

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    Anyone know if the swingarm protector/chain slider off another model will fit an 84’ XL600? (Or where to just buy one)

    I’ve hunted a good few online parts places, and drawn nothing but blanks and conflicting parts numbers. I dont think these bikes were super popular in the UK, so sourcing spares is easier said than done!
  14. builtbyluke

    builtbyluke n00b

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    Part number: HO52170-KK0-771

    xrsonly still sells it.

    From my research, all these models had the same: XR200R (85-00) XL250R (85-87) XL350R (1985) XL600R (85-87)
  15. builtbyluke

    builtbyluke n00b

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    I gotcha. Dumb me for thinking you had a typo haha! That looks like an awesome addition. I'll add it to the list.

    Okay, I'll dig for the oil mod. I've seen one video on youtube I think related to that.

    I just put a new clutch and springs in. The flywheel lightening sounds _really_ cool. I found the thread. I'm gonna see if that guy is still doing it per your recommendation.

    Right now I have a Pirelli MT and Dunlop 606 which has really been awesome. Do you have any recommendations there?
  16. Cord

    Cord Adventurer

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    Thanks for that, I had a slightly different part number!

    wow, $87 and am waiting on them seeing if they’ll ship to the uk.!
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  17. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    oh man i forgot about the 400 having more fins, its one of those mods ive ment to do over the years and never gotten to..either a lack of coolers availible at the time, or no money when they are availible.....oh sure i could toss one of those side coolers on, but i dont trust them to not get taken out by something, for the same reason my signals are all "tucked tight" on aluminum L brackets..

    dirt bikes go down, the trick is making it so when they do nothing CAN get damaged
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  18. mark duncan

    mark duncan default

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    Hi All,

    I’ve been thinking about installing an oil cooler as well, I’ve noticed some super high temperatures lately while doing slow dirt riding and hill climbs.

    I have the trail tech vapor speedometer with temp sensor. I usually see around 190-200 on the highway, 220 around town. I’ve seen it up to 265 when riding slow hill climbs in the heat. Turn off the engine and it climbs to 275-280.

    question: what is the safe temp range?
  19. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Long timer

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    i honestly dont have a clue, but i can tell you that my ole 500 pulls 300+ cruising with no cooler

    conventional wisdom of liquid cooling says 210 is "ideal" and anything north of 260 as "bad"

    where do you have the probe?, i had rigged up a tripple probe setup when i was chasing what i thought was a freezing carb, and after multiple placements i found that the head the jug and the case will all display drasticly different temps even more so front to back....my own personal theory now is that OIL TEMP is more important than actual temp
  20. dixda

    dixda Been here awhile Supporter

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    Icing in carbs is rare here on our 87 xl600r in the BC interior. I first put a temp dipstick. After stopping for too many smokes and when the old Soopercrap cut pieces of my rear fender off I put a Lockheart in the oil line. Better than a dropped valve seat although the oil cooler may work too well for operating temps. I get in the 200 range on hot days.