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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Hayduke, Jan 16, 2008.
That yellow thing is by far the best mod anyone can do for the xr4!
While I can agree 100%, the fact that it turns this is even better and the main reason I bought it.
I'm in AZ now and it never impede at all.....my fender bag is a front tube attached (moose bag)
I tend to ride a lot of single track besides the faster stuff and the slower stuff I never had any heat issues.
Even when I first came out here 10 years ago and decided to try a ride in the DUMB summer.
How much molybdenum oil do you coat on engine parts the XR manual says to? Thin smears or massive coats? If it's mixed 1:1 with engine oil, wouldn't it just wash off once the engine heats up to its standard operating temperature of 1,000,000 degrees?
That's interesting, I was concerned - especially with the trailtech dash, watching the temps rise into the 220+ range (sensor on upper engine mount bolt). Good intel, thanks!
I finally dropped off the bike at my mechanic. He said that his first impression was low compression, so most likely it needs a top end.
The bottom end is pretty much bulletproof on these bikes right?
Went on a DS ride last week from West TX into NM. Great weather and riding the whole time. Switch bikes with my buddy’s 650r for TEN MINUTES and he does this...
It was way slimier than it looks.
Relative to some.............. Yes, but I hate that term "Bulletproof".
I had to split my cases on account of a $2 shifter return spring failing. This was an
anomaly, but never less left me stranded on a trip.
Back into the game guys.
I regrettably sold my garage floor up 98 rebuild a couple of years ago and going to go pick up a clean 96 tomorrow. The seller says a top end tick.
Where should I start to troubleshoot the tick ?
IMO check the valve clearances and then cam chain tensioner. The pull the valve cover for rockers, cam etc.
1) Can you remove the stock carb without removing or loosening the intake boot mounting bolts?
2) Can you remove the Mikuni carb without removing or loosening the intake boot mounting bolts?
Those barkbusters should be parallel with the ground. Zero strength like that, if you hit anything they will fold under. Look at any real dirt rider's bike who is active in enduro, HS and you will see the correct orientation.
I never take the intake manifold off the head. I just pop off the subframe. Everything is wide open then. Seems excessive, but you can have the whole subframe off in a couple minutes.
this is what I do as well. I have the Mikuni tm36. I usually just loosen the lower subframe mounts slightly and then remove the top bolt so the whole thing swings down. After you do it a couple times it becomes a fairly easy process. Oh and I have to pull the muffler as well.
With the stock shock linkage mudflap in place you can easily break the mudguard by letting the subframe droop down. I detach the exhaust from the subframe mounts, but leave the exhaust in place and intact. Even the stock exhaust is light enough to float. Many ways to skin a cat.
Anyone have a good condition complete with mounts skid plate they're not using ? Ricochet, Moose, MSR, Devol ?
Two oil questions.
1) When doing an oil change, can the bike frame take the entire 1.8 litre / 1.9 qts of oil in one go?
Because I read on the internet that you pour some oil into bike, start engine so it drains frame so you can pour in the rest. But I poured the whole lot in without starting the engine.
2) When the engine is off, does oil drain out of the frame and into the crankcase? (Like overnight)
Yes, this is called “wet sumping”. Not to be confused with “dry humping” or even worse, “wet humping” :)
Just make sure you check your oil right after you run the bike for a while and shut it off.
Also, there was a conversation a few pages back about this.
I pour a litre in first
Then I pull the decompressor in, kick the bike over 20-25 times to circulate the oil
Then pour 600ml in and check that there is oil showing onto the bottom of the dipstick
Start the bike and run for 5 mins, stop bike and then let the oil settle for 5 mins
Re-check the dipstick and pour in the final 200ml
Start bike, run for 2-3 mins and stop, let oil settle and then recheck after 5 mins