The XT350 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Burtonridr, Sep 26, 2007.

  1. daniel02

    daniel02 Adventurer

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    if anything im willing to trade an xt 350 parts bike for another bike
    that needs work cause i like to fix old bikes
  2. chardog1971

    chardog1971 Been here awhile

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    Lol, yes an XT 350.
  3. chardog1971

    chardog1971 Been here awhile

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    just found these on eBay. $10 US. I noticed that they are not identical. I havent had to take the original ones off to compare I dont need them but, I figured I should have extra. Different part numbers from one to the next so, well see.
    Also ordered new fork seals. I noticed oil on my carrier rack. That means I'll do the pvc and atf upgrade. Typical weak front suspension. 20201215_082410.jpg

    Went for a nice ride last week. Forgot to put bike away. Next morning.
  4. chardog1971

    chardog1971 Been here awhile

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    20201215_150406.jpg helps to put the picture up.
  5. neppi

    neppi Long timer

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    I don’t think they should be identical, more like mirrored. $10 is a score, espesh if they do the thing.
  6. chardog1971

    chardog1971 Been here awhile

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    20201220_143443.jpg The lower left one has a little extra metal on one edge of the aluminum mounting plate. It is also labeled with the letter L where as the other is labeled with an R. Upon closer examination the bolt centers are the same. I dont need them yet so we'll see. Although, I will be rejetting as soon as I figure out what I need and can get the stuff.
  7. neppi

    neppi Long timer

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    There are little rubber ”studs” for orienting the carb clamps that are different L&R. Atleast mine had them. The clamps have grooves to match. I think that’s the only difference.
  8. XT350Guru

    XT350Guru Adventurer

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    For anyone interested. I know I've heard a lot of complaints about the stock XT350 suspension, and I agree it is one of the FEW downfalls of this model. I just finished installed KYB shocks on my XT350. There was surprisingly few modifications required to make this work. If there is interest I will go into detail on what I did and take a few more pictures.

    Cheers,

    Chris

    Attached Files:

  9. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    Hell yeah I wanna know! Do anything with the rear shock? I wanna know that too!;)

    I love seeing others do suspension improvement/modification/swapping/whatever! Just when you think you’ve seen it all, some other guy goes way outside the normal box and does something new. THAT’S why I like to see other people’s work.
  10. XT350Guru

    XT350Guru Adventurer

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    Mentolio,

    I have not done anything yet with the rear shock. I have the stock shock set to its hardest setting for now. I would like to upgrade the rear shock at the same time as I do a rear brake conversion to disc, but I’m going to ride it as is to see if the stock rear shock can be used, also i can see ride height and if I need a taller shock I can measure for that with the stock shock on there. I can’t use the rear shock from the doner yz250 without using the yz250 swing arm and that would require pretty significant mods and I would need to review suspension geometry to ensure nothing is compromised. I think it will be easier to keep the stock swing arm and buy an aftermarket performance shock IMO.

    I will write up a summary of the conversion for everyone and post soon.

    Thanks,

    Chris
  11. XT350Guru

    XT350Guru Adventurer

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    Yamaha XT350 Front Suspension Upgrade

    My Model Info:
    1994 Yamaha XT350
    Stock Everything (Just got it in September)

    Doner Bike:
    1998 Yamaha YZ250
    Notes:
    I picked up a doner bike with a blown engine in I would say great condition (apart from the top end) for $250 CAD. (You might not be able to get such a good deal, but they are out there)
    As long as you pickup the same generation of YZ250 everything here should work, I cant confirm if earlier or later generations will work, it might it might not.

    General Notes:
    The stock Yamaha Xt350 from forks are pretty weak. The diameter of the fork tube is only 35mm. Compared to the 48mm KYB shocks on the YZ250.
    Overall length of shocks is similar, with the YZ250 being marginally taller. Not significantly.
    YZ250 shocks are obviously much better that the stock XT350 stocks, but are heavier.
    They also sit much farther apart.

    Scope of Work:
    1. Remove the existing front forks/triple tree off your XT350.
    2. Use a hydraulic press to press OUT the steering stem SHAFTs from both the XT350 and YZ250 lower steering stem Note: There is a pin (can't remeber the actual name) that holds the XT350 steering stem in place. This needs to be drilled out before you can press the shaft out. The YZ250 doesnt have this, as its related to the steering lock.
    3. Use a hydraulic press to press IN the XT350 steering stem shaft, into the YZ250 lower triple tree. The XT350 shaft fits the lower steering stem of the YZ250. For added security I used a thin layer of JB weld on the shaft before pressing it in. So its not coming out. Remember that shaft is also a taper fit, so it just sits a little lower in the taper than the YZ250 aluminum steering stem. With plenty of engagement
    4. Now with that done you can use the stock XT350 steering stem bearings, since the shafts is the same. So go ahead and reassembly the triple tree with new bearings.
    5. Lastly the YZ250 upper triple tree has a larger diameter hole that the top of the XT350 steering stem shaft. So you will need to machine a bushing that will close that gap. Its approx 1mm so I used thin sheet metal and bent this around the shaft into a bushing. You want to make sure the shaft is tight in the top triple tree so dont miss this step.
    6. You will need to use the front wheel and brake caliper from the YZ250 as well, as mounting is different. This is also an upgrade to the stock front brakes of the XT350. Same 21" diameter wheel size on both.
    7. Being that the upper and lower clamps are closer together, you will notice that when you put the forks on the top clamp sits lower on the fork then on a stock YZ250 where the top of the fork is basically in line with the top clamp, but this isnt a major issue IMO.

    Cant really say I have tested this yet, so maybe wait to hear back from me before anyone else tries it. I will post more pictures as the rest of the bike goes back together over the next few months (F'ing Winter)

    As far as rear shock, I will have to match that to the front when I can do some testing. I would like to keep the stock swingarm and just replace the shock itself. Potentially also a rear disc upgrade. More to follow.
    unnamed.jpg
    Let me know if anyone has any questions or constructive criticism. Emphasis on constructive.


    FOLLOW UP 2021

    The fork conversion is working well half way through the season. The rim lock on the front tire of the YZ250 needed to be balanced with another rim lock 180 apart. Or just remove the stock rim lock.

    i took off the forks and triple tree last week to inspect the steering stem bearings and they look as new as they did when I put them in, so no unusual wear from the conversion. Forks are holding up great, have them set pretty soft so they somewhat match the rear. Until I upgrade the rear in winter 2022.

    Cheers,

    Chris
    chardog1971 and norton73 like this.
  12. XT350Guru

    XT350Guru Adventurer

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    Just a follow up, if you notice as well the clutch has a reservoir. I have converted the cable clutch to hydraulic and that made such a difference. Mostly in how long I can ride before I have to take a break because of clutch hand hurts. I find I also have better clutch control with the hydraulic setup. It was a cheap upgrade and highly recommended

    search for hydraulic clutch on “AliExpress”. That’s where I got it, get the new version with the revised cylinder.

    Cheers,

    Chris
    TheAdmiral likes this.
  13. Mountboy

    Mountboy Adventurer

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    An old thread, but I nevertheless hope for som answer(s).
    You are charing very good and useful information. Thanks a lot!
    Is your setup still working properly?
    I have the same challenge on my -86 XT350. Need more/stronger light for driving in dark and dusk.
    I'm not capable to do this work on my own, have asked several companies here in Norway, but so far without luck.
    Anyone who knew some companies in the US or anywhere else??
    TheAdmiral likes this.
  14. TheAdmiral

    TheAdmiral Long timer

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    I agree. I rarely ride at night but when I do it's kind of scary. I haven't found an answer to this yet either.
  15. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    My buddy and I both bought “Chinesium” LED headlights. Both were cheap (mine was around $30 on eBay), his sucks are night, mine is better than the stock incandescent, but that isn’t saying
    75287BD8-8363-4175-BA80-CC640802B743.png 5352C4F6-D89D-4EE3-8C7F-851111D5B55F.png
    First one is very similar to what my buddy got, it pretty much stinks in the dark. Second one is the style I bought. Seems brighter and reaches out further, but despite being better than stock it still isn’t what I would call “great.” The hi-beam is ultra concentrated, and the low beam doesn’t reach out as far as I would like. This on a Suzuki DR. If I were going to do it again, I’d look hard at the newer style round headlights they offer. Cheap enough to try once, I’d think?
  16. chardog1971

    chardog1971 Been here awhile

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    Do your led lights dim at low rpm? The stock light is fine while cruising but I can't see much at idle or real low speeds.
    I've seen people add a 6" led bar which seems to help. I saw one at an auto parts store for about 30 bucks. They seemed pretty stout and had angle brackets to mount them.
    I was out in the desert after dark recently and I definitely could use more light.
    TheAdmiral likes this.
  17. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    “Do your led lights dim at low rpm?”

    Nope, but my stock incandescent didn’t dim noticeably either. The led lights draw lower wattage, and so may not dim as your stock light does.
  18. Mountboy

    Mountboy Adventurer

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    Mine is dim a lot on low rpm/idle.
    Problem with led is that you can't control it from the full/dim switch because it is ac.
  19. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer Supporter

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    Buy an LED bulb and rectifier. The light is amazing, requires zero wiring changes, and has high/low beam. I ran that setup for a couple of years on my KTM. I didn't notice any difference in light output switching from AC to all DC. AC worked just fine.

    Cyclops sells both a halogen bulb replacement LED bulb that should not require modifications and rectifier. That bulb works really well in an old school rectangular lens. IIRC, it will be just under $100 for the bulb and rectifier but well worth it.
  20. norton73

    norton73 drinkin' in the garage Supporter

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    Been a while since I sold my XT350, but if my alkyhol addled memory serves me right, the stock bulb is a 35w incandesant. I replaced the reflector with one from a TW200 from Ebay for not much and then could use a 55/65w halogen bulb. Still wasn't great, but it helped.