The XT600 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CR_TurboGuy, Jan 21, 2007.

  1. Godoh

    Godoh Adventurer

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    Disconnect the wires from the rear brake switch. The switch is connected to the pedal by a spring.
    Take the wires off it and connect the two that come from the loom together and see if the light comes on.
    If the light works, then get a new switch.
    If the front brake switch works the light then it is most likely the rear brake switch that is the problem
    Pete
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  2. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    This! Also rear switch might need adjustment to work ok
  3. amishman71

    amishman71 Adventurer

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    so after replacing manifold boots just now i cant get the bike to start. only thing i coulda possibly messed up is the carb vacuum lines does any one have a diagram that actually shows were they go? ones online just show tubes going to no were.


    well pretty sure i found the issue the lil end that a line hooks to was literally just sliding in and out of the boot lol
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  4. amishman71

    amishman71 Adventurer

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    so when changing the intake manifolds do i need to put like gasket maker down? didnt come with any gaskets only thing it came with were the orings
  5. amishman71

    amishman71 Adventurer

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    under further inspection i noticed some cables got pulled from my coil could any one help me out with were these go? i just didnt kno which went on top or bottom so i dont wanna just plug shit in lol

    Attached Files:

  6. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    Best photos I have at hand . It's an XT e but it might be the same Screenshot_20210823-180644.jpg Screenshot_20210823-180612.jpg
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  7. amishman71

    amishman71 Adventurer

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    cool man thank you, ya mines a 93 600e model as well lol loved it till this lil mishap those manifolds are a pain to change
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  8. OzCRU

    OzCRU Long timer

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    Well Done @amishman71 , Did you get it running again now with the coil reconnected?
    New manifold boots - you should notice an improvement as well
  9. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    Soon I'll respray the exhaust I hope the head screws would come undone easily

    Also for the clutch cover removal, can be the oil line just undone and rotated ? IMG_20210822_150148525_1.jpg
  10. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    Do you think it's worth it ? If you don't want a full oil cooler but want to cool it a bit ? Screenshot_20210824-122035-432.jpg
  11. amishman71

    amishman71 Adventurer

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    well in the process my battery died so i hooked it up to my trusty tender and 2 mins into charge the tender lit on fire lol......so i hooked it up to my car and jumped it and it did finally start. have to hook up my air box boots and stuff now.
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  12. zap2504

    zap2504 Dave E.

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    Those are mostly for show since they don't provide much radiating surface. Similar thing for finned valve adjust covers. Since this bike has oil-in-frame, maybe clipping some aluminum fins to the frame might be better.
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  13. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    Makes sense ...thx

    What about a real cooler ?

    Or it's just a gimmick and will do more problems than it solves ?

    Such as this https://www.off-the-road.de/en/Othe...acc/OTR-oil-cooler-Yamaha-XT-600-SRX-600.html
  14. dzl

    dzl adventurer wannabe

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    But why? I always have a laugh when this topic comes up. The XT600e already has a big oil cooler...the frame. Have you monitored the oil temps and found them to be getting over 130C? I have, here in oz and only ever approached those temps in very hot weather in slow going in sandy tracks. Its just not an issue.On the other hand it is an issue on my TT600R. The oil on that gets very hot very easily. No oil in frame cooling. I have actually tried the OTR cooler on it and if anything it made temps worse. I suspect as may affect air flow around cylinder? I removed it. Not worth the extra pipework complexity and weight. I dont use the TTR on hot summer days but havnt had any issues when hard running below day temp of about 30C.
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  15. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    Thanks a lot ! I don't have the Thermo oil dipstick but there were times when I might notice degraded performance so I stopped for a while to cool it down . I use full synth oil and change it usually more often than recommend 6k km


    Another question, is there a foam type air filter/reusable one ?I think kn filter is a bad idea but ability to just wash it oil it and put back would be nice

    (My XT has 48k km on it )
  16. dzl

    dzl adventurer wannabe

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    Yep the full synth oil will handle hot oil conditions way better than mineral oil.

    Yamaha Australia list the unifilter foam prefilter which replaces the snorkel and main foam air filter as the standard item here in oz. If you can somehow order parts from Yamaha oz this is the best you can buy. These filters were originally installed in all the Australian army XT600's and have been proven to be the best filtration option.

    See here http://www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/partFinder/fiche/yamaha/1991/xt600e/intake#content

    If cant get through yamaha oz you may be able to get direct from unifilter but price is higher! https://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d1427_XT.html
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  17. unlimited_explorer

    unlimited_explorer Been here awhile

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    Thanks ! This looks so neat!

    I have been thinking about DIY socks prefilter but this seems as the perfect solution

    I'll try to get in Europe
  18. OzCRU

    OzCRU Long timer

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    @unlimited_explorer Yes, the clutch cover can be removed by loosening the oil line to the rear of the cylinder. You can lay the bike on it's side & retain your oil as well unless you need to do an oil change at the same time.
    Very likely that you will need a new cover gasket as the original ones seldom survive.
    I wouldn't bother with the finned oil filter cover either - as @dzl says oil in frame does a good job & ridden sensibly even in hot, slow, heavy conditions it will be fine. So call this a +1 on his experience there.
    As for your exhaust bolts, I used penetrating oil for a few days / week before I removed mine - no problems. As others on this thread have said - copper Grease when you put them back on.

    @dzl - thanks for the links for the Unifilter - I'd been looking for one of those but for whatever reason kept getting the original part rather than this replacement!!
    I ended up with another washable unit instead, but I'm not that happy with it so will look to replace with one of these as well.
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  19. amishman71

    amishman71 Adventurer

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  20. OzCRU

    OzCRU Long timer

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    @amishman71 Yep, If that's all you are looking to do, I think I'd remove the rear wheel, then pull the pin from the bottom of the spring, then pull the main pivot bolt out, swap in your new part, regrease everything & reassemble. But you might be able to do it with the wheel in place depending on your setup.