The Yamaha TW200 Thread...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neepuk, Jan 10, 2009.

  1. Josef Lieser

    Josef Lieser n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2019
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Bavaria
    I've bought this for small money from my Honda dealer. Old lady with next to no kilometers on the odo. The former owner was a semi-popular actress. Not really interested in motorcycling I think.

    DSC01156.JPG DSC01154.JPG
    CampCowan, wildknits, JagLite and 6 others like this.
  2. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    368
    Location:
    Connecticut
    When taking delivery of a used motorcycle, changing the engine oil and servicing the air filter are two biggies that are a given.
    I'd do this automatically.
    In my opinion, no expensive engine oils are required as plain ol' Yamalube 10/40 is just fine and dandy.
    Any other similar brand in 10/40 suitable for wet clutch motorcycles (Honda GN4, Suzuki Ecstar, etc.) are fine choices.
    For the foam air filter, use a bona-fide foam air filter oil after you clean and thoroughly dry the foam filter.
    Be sure to squeeze out the excess filter oil before installing the filter.

    If you haven't yet shot some lube down the clutch cable to lubricate it, do it.
    I use silicone spray as it's friendly to the inner lining of the cable.
    I use one of the clamp-on lube tools made to accept the straw from the aerosol can of silicone spray.
    If the cable is dry and stiction prone, you will not like the feel at the clutch lever.

    One thing you can check visually is the alignment of the clutch push lever down on the engine (that's the lever the clutch cable connects to down at the crankcase).
    When you pull the clutch lever just enough to remove any free play but no more, a pointer mark on the push lever should align with a matching mark on the crankcase.
    This will ensure the cam on the business end of the push lever is correctly positioned on the clutch throwout pushrod and allow proper function of these parts.
    It's not very likely it's off (if so, somebody probably messed with it), but if it is off, you remove the clutch cover and make an adjustment at the center of the clutch pressure plate.
    This is detailed in the Yamaha Service Manual.

    Lastly, if you feel the engagement point of the clutch lever is too far away from the grip, use the adjuster near the grip to give a little more free play.

    My opinion is that all three of my TW200s (1987, 2000, and 2018 models) had identical feel and operation of the clutch.
    I have no gripes and it's pretty easy for me to use.
    Check the obvious things and if they're OK, you may simply need time to adapt to it.
    Randy, frog13 and Allucaneat like this.
  3. frog13

    frog13 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,812
    Location:
    SW Ohio
    Clutch : The short engagement / throw is normal. If you have the Yamaha FSM......go to page 3-15 and proceed. There's an internal adjustment as well. Also , make sure the return spring on the left side ( shifter side of bike ) is in the proper alignment. .....along with the push lever !.
    You probably already know, but, the TW "can be" a little finicky shifting wise depending on the brand and especially the grade / weight of engine oil !. My 09 shifts perfectly from any gear. The return spring not being set properly was a foul up from the factory. ....easy to reset ! ......mine and many others came from the Factory that way.
    Nice bike you aquire !!..... Ride on.
    JagLite likes this.
  4. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,180
    Location:
    Durham, NC
    I had the same problem with my 87. No amount of jetting would fix it. If I held throttle wfo on the highway, it would almost hit a wall. Almost like an ignition cutout for half a sec, then it’d go back to attempting to accelerate, until it did it again. If I backed off a little I could nurse it a little faster, but it never really worked like it should. This is with the older non CV carb. I know the dub doesn’t have an ignition cutoff and I also know what valve float feels like and it wasn’t that either. Seemed to only happen in top gear with the load of having to cut through the wind. In lower gears not a problem.

    It’s good to know if I get another tee dub there is a fix for it. :)

    Charles.
    JagLite likes this.
  5. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,180
    Location:
    Durham, NC
    If the previous owner was a big guy, he may have installed heavy duty clutch springs. Heavy duty springs have a shorter engagement zone. That said, my T dub Had a terrible clutch feel until I replaced the cable. Brand new cable and proper cable routing makes a huge difference.

    Charles.
    JagLite and frog13 like this.
  6. RCEMT-P

    RCEMT-P Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    50
    Location:
    Northern MI
    I struggled with mine for awhile till I got used to it. I've honestly found I probably look like a noob when I try and RIP it away from a stop sign cause it shifts so weird. It likes a nice smooth and easy shift I've found. This bikes far from performance.
    JagLite and Randy like this.
  7. Randy

    Randy Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2002
    Oddometer:
    3,164
    Location:
    Newnan, GA USA
    Ok, so far, today, I changed the oil using Mobil 1 10W40, installed a new clutch lever (original was slightly tweaked and bent), double checked the return spring (it was fine), and tightened the adjustment as per WYO George's advise...

    I just took a little spin through town (14 miles) and I'm happy to report that for whatever reason, the clutch felt better. :thumb I can't say that it's awesome, but it's better, and I suppose I'd call it livable.

    I'm not sure which change made it better, but whatever the case, I can live with it now.

    New front tire, 47 tooth rear sprocket, and X-ring chain to install tomorrow...

    Will report back on impressions of new gearing, but so far, tonight told me that this little things is FUN, and will be a keeper! :ricky

    On a side note, the new lever I installed was by Tusk. IMO, it is superior to the original as the pivot has a bronze bushing. Not sure how much real world difference it makes, but I can say that it had less "slop". And, it was only $7.54 shipped. :thumbup
    frog13, JagLite and Nobade like this.
  8. wildknits

    wildknits Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    54
    Location:
    Duluth, MN
    I have been to Aerostich many times, used to live just one mile from their shop, and have a customized Darien jacket (I am fairly small-statured) and Darien Light pants (bought on sale at their suggestion when I was ready to purchase a full price pair). They are great folks and give a discount if you walk in. I agree, the gear is worth the price.
    JagLite likes this.
  9. NJ-Brett

    NJ-Brett Brett

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,318
    Location:
    Southern New Jersey
    It may get even better the next oil change.
    Two other things you might put on the list are a seat concepts seat kit and the pro cycle fork upgrade kit.
    I found both to be very good.

    I am not slow on the TW. Its no KTM but it can keep up with normal dual sports...

    I have over 2500 miles on it and have not fallen yet, came close once or twice but saved it due to the low center of gravity.
    Everyone I have ridden with has dropped their bikes.....
    No fear of the worst trails on the TW!


    frog13 and JagLite like this.
  10. Nobade

    Nobade Long timer

    Joined:
    May 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,022
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Brett,
    Did you go with the springs and gold valves or just the springs? I have been thinking about adding the springs to my next order from them but wondering how much of an improvement they give by themselves or if doing the gold valve kit in addition would be worth it?
    frog13 likes this.
  11. NJ-Brett

    NJ-Brett Brett

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,318
    Location:
    Southern New Jersey
    I did both, the slightly stiffer springs and the emulators.
    Now I feel the back suspension harshness, the forks work well.
    Nobade and frog13 like this.
  12. Randy

    Randy Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2002
    Oddometer:
    3,164
    Location:
    Newnan, GA USA
    Thanks for the replies. The clutch seems a little better but still not what I'm used to... The clutch just engages much later than what I'd consider "normal" for most bikes. I'm just riding it as is, and trying to get used to it. Worse case, the clutch is shot... If that's the case, eventually it'll start slipping. I'll replace when and if necessary.

    In the meantime, had a chance to get a few things done on the bike...

    [​IMG]



    I installed a 47 tooth rear sprocket and X-ring chain today...


    [​IMG]


    Also a Shinko 241 with Michelin ULTRA heavy duty tube. And when they say ultra, they mean it! This thing is almost as thick as the tire! Hopefully it'll prove puncture and pinch resistant.


    [​IMG]


    I'm guessing that it's the heavy tube, or maybe the tire... or probably a combination of the two, but a shortish test ride revealed a little wheel hop. Not horrible, but slightly perceptible. I normally balance my bike tires, but with the low speeds of this bike I didn't bother. Looks like I'll be pulling it off again once I get some decent clip on spoke type wheel weights. Don't want to waste my good lead stick-ons that I use on bikes with cast wheels.

    Also got the worst of the gouges sanded out of the hand guards, and installed them a couple nights ago... Not pretty, but serviceable.


    [​IMG]


    Also have a DG exhaust inbound. I know it serves no real purpose. But I like the looks, and the back to back sound comparo that TDubskid did, sure sounded better than the wheezy stock exhaust. Once I get it installed it'll be time to dive into the carb and see what's what...

    Overall it's a cool little bike. Really enjoying the low seat height and weight. Makes for a very confidence inspiring little runabout. :)
    Ride Now, frog13 and JagLite like this.
  13. NJ-Brett

    NJ-Brett Brett

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,318
    Location:
    Southern New Jersey
    I would never use those heavy duty tubes, the TW has a rear tire on the front and with the original tube and low pressure I hit roots and so on at speed with no issue.
    Adding a heavy tire along with a heavy tube to that heavy rim is really going to impact things in a negative way.

    I am looking for a lighter tube type tire to run in the front.
    A heavy front wheel will slow acceleration and braking, and be harder to control over bumps, plus I like to lift the front over things
    with the throttle and a tug on the bars. With all that weight its going to be impossible to do that.
    Cyclepath likes this.
  14. Randy

    Randy Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2002
    Oddometer:
    3,164
    Location:
    Newnan, GA USA
    I definitely get the advantages of less unsprung weight. But, back in the day when I did a lot of more serious off-road riding, being 10 trail miles from the truck with a flat sucked! I switched to heavy duty natural rubber tubes and never had an issue again. Most standard tubes are synthetic rubber which has a tendency to rip when damaged. This ripping effect causes sudden loss of pressure, and often is unrepairable with a patch kit. Natural rubber doesn't have this tendency and typically looses pressure in a much more controlled fashion, and is often more easily repairable with a patch. YMMV. I got in the habit of running higher quality tubes for this reason. IMO, when riding a bike with inner tubes,the difference between having a nice day and a miserable one can sometimes be determined by the quality of tube I run. Been there and done that, more than once...

    The rear wheel/tire on the TW is heavy as hell. Much of that weight is from the steel wheel Yamaha uses as well as that huge ass fat rear tire. The front, with aluminum rim was lighter than I expected. The stock tube I pulled out didn't impress me at all. While a few ounces lighter, it was MUCH thinner than the one that replaced it. When I first saw the Michelin, I thought, "Damn, that's overkill." It was thicker than expected for certain. So, I thought that I may just reuse the original. Then, when I saw the original, I was glad that I'd ordered the Michelin. :thumb So, while the Michelin tube that I ordered was thicker than expected, I feel much more confident with it than I would have been if I'd kept the stocker. At the speeds I'll likely be riding the TW (slowly), I'm less concerned with the affects of a little more unsprung weight that the heavy duty tube brings to the table, than the added insurance against flats that it'll provide.

    In any event, we all ride whatever makes us most comfortable in our individual applications. :beer
    JagLite likes this.
  15. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    7,695
    Location:
    Anchorage Alaska
    I use Ride-On tire sealant/balancer in my bikes.
    I first used it on my street bike (Drifter 1500) on a 3,300 mile rid home to Alaska for the potential safety in case of a puncture.
    Even if it didn't seal the tube I hoped it would slow the leak enough for me to get off the highway.
    A front tire blow out at 65 would be too exciting for me.

    I read a lot online about various tire sealants and decided that Ride-On is the only brand I would use.
    The fact that it also balances the wheel was of little concern because I balance my wheels.
    Except that I could not balance the very heavy steel wheels and tires after replacing the tires and tubes where I was working on the bike.
    I decided to stop along the way at a shop to get them balanced if it was a problem.
    No balancing needed, the wheels were perfect up to the fastest speed I cruised at, 85 mph.
    I am very impressed!

    After using it on that ride I bought Ride-on for my other bikes and experimented with the balancing by leaving the old weights on, installing a new tube and tire, putting Ride-On in the tube and riding it for a few miles. It would roll smooth and be great, then I removed the balance weights and went out for another ride to have the same excellent results.

    I don't understand how it works, I just know it does.
    I don't know if it has sealed any punctures, it is just insurance.
  16. Randy

    Randy Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2002
    Oddometer:
    3,164
    Location:
    Newnan, GA USA

    Hmmm... I don't use sealants on non-tube type tires due to the mess it creates. But, now that you mention it, and if it also provides a balancing effect, maybe I should give it a go... Research is needed... :thumb
    JagLite likes this.
  17. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    368
    Location:
    Connecticut
    I used the traditional stick-on lead balancing weights when I replaced the front tire of my TW.
    Worked like a charm and haven't shown the slightest tendency to get rubbed off.
    Even on the mighty TW and my habit of 40mph on the street, I balanced the wheel before reinstalling it.
    Glad I did because it's smooth.
    I used an IRC TR1 trials tire.
    JagLite likes this.
  18. frog13

    frog13 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,812
    Location:
    SW Ohio
    Great info on tubes Randy.....thank you. The front bounce you mention could be a balance issue....you already know that. Air pressure perhaps? ??..... just a guess...... : )
  19. turbodieseli4i6

    turbodieseli4i6 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    821
    Location:
    SW Missouri



    I have been running Ride-On tire sealant balancer for almost 70,000 miles on my NC700X. I love it! It does great for balancing my tires, and knock on wood, I've never had a flat while using it. With that said, I'm always looking for a better deal. I found another company that advertises the same results with the ability to stop a 1/2'' hole at a lower cost.
    Sahara High-speed Tire Sealant. I have it in my Honda tires now. It is a major pain to install through the valve stem, because it will seal it very fast. The ride feels good so far. Here's a link for it.
    https://smile.amazon.com/Sahara-High-Speed-Tire-Sealant/dp/B07G4BFQ3W/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g3905707922? _encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8
    JagLite likes this.
  20. Randy

    Randy Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2002
    Oddometer:
    3,164
    Location:
    Newnan, GA USA
    Was running 18 lbs front and rear. It wasn't terrible. At first I thought it was simply imperfections in the road that I was feeling. Then, as I rode on a few different roads, and at various speeds, I determined that it was balance. I normally balance my tires, but for whatever reason, this time I didn't. :dunno I ordered a bottle of Ride On, but honestly I'm a little skeptical... Once that stuff is in the tube, it's in there for good. And if it doesn't work, well... I may just pull it off and balance it the old fashioned way tonight...