Three weeks in Peru

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by gavo, Oct 15, 2014.

  1. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    16th October

    I spotted this last night as we were walking around
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    We left Puno Bright and early, I'd found a shortcut so we didn't have to go back through Juliaca but as some of it was an unknown and we were by ourselves without so much as a phone I stuck to the sure way:puke1.
    This is Driver Ed just outside Puno

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    The trip back through Juliaca was much easier this time:wink:
    Saw a lot of these

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    Usual good views
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    The pass over the range to Arequipa is great riding if a little sparse

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    And this is typical of the overtaking manoeuvres.

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    We stopped at this place which doesn't have a name I can find but it's at the turnoff to Chivay. It's a truck stop

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    With irrigation the valley's started to green up

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    But without the water, hows this for a scene from an apocalypse movie

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    this is the place closer up, my guess cement factory

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    No more pic's from this day, missus went on strike:lol3
    #21
  2. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    First day in Arequipa we decided to leave:lol3 no just a day trip to Colca canyon a round trip of about 350km
    This is just near a little town called Patahuasi the soccer fields are for really tough players:eek1

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    The road to Chivay is a ripper and on the way back I had extra fun in the twisties

    Scenery, one of the volcano's in the area
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    and of course snowcaps
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    This one had a bit of a belch

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    According to the GPS we reached 4849 mtrs which was our highest on the trip

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    We reached Chivay but took the turnoff to Cabanaconde straight away as we had a lot to cover, mostly dirt road on this section.
    This tunnel was a bit spooky, no lights, a build up of soft stuff on the edges and no view of the other end because of the bend.

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    local traffic:wink:

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    big canyon

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    see town on other side
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    This place was unusual it seemed to be a house belonging to someone with money I'd say, it was big

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    We saw a condor not long after this the shadow on the ground attracted our attention, not a really big one and only the one, our guide at Machu picchu later told us there's only about 200 left due to poachers so we were lucky unfortunately no pic

    The town square at Cabanaconde were we had un cafe con leche and talked to an american who had driven his car down from the states and was having an extended look around South America.
    And a few shots on the way back to Chivay

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    We didn't really stay in Chivay, time was getting on and the sky had turned an unfriendly colour I was worried about the high roads and a storm as it was it got very cold and we had a few spots of rain but nowhere near as bad as it could have been, that was in the future:eek1
    #22
  3. Eddywoodgo

    Eddywoodgo two wheeled nomad

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    Great stuff Gav, thanks for sharing mate. Love the photos
    :clap
    #23
  4. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    Second day in Arequipa we decided to see the Pacific ocean from the other side to home:D
    So Mollendo seemed the place.
    The country side is like a moonscape on the Arequipa side of the range except where some irrigation has gone in or in some of the valley's.
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    I didn't find out what these very small buildings are, maybe farm workers dwellings.

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    Along the highway there would be random building with tarps, bamboo, shade clothe plastic for shade and wind breaks sort of looked like something from a Mad Max movie, anyway cruising along the highway when 2 dogs run out from a building on the other side of the road, ones the size of a rottweiler the other about cattle dog size and they had us in their sites.
    They should have looked because just at that moment a large tour bus closely followed by a semi crested the hill coming the other way, there was a very loud bang :eek1 and I looked in the mirror to see a mass of fur ,blood and tyre smoke. Those doggies won't be chasing any more bikes.
    Hey I like dogs but not when they chase me on my bike.:evil

    As soon as we crossed the range you could see they get more rain on the ocean side

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    And we pulled over for a pic and this family were enjoying the scene too.

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    The road took us into Matarani which was a cargo town so we didn't stop

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    And headed to the beach at Mollendo

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    All these cafe's on the beach front and couldn't get a coffee they all wanted to sell us something alcoholic to drink but it was to early even for me:lol3

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    This place you can see in earlier pic would have been a grand affair once but now abandon.

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    We went further along the coast to do a loop back through Cocachacra, Cachendo and La Joya, there was a lot of farming through here with good irrigation but the beaches were crap with run down resorts and a lot of rubbish

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    #24
  5. moulin6801

    moulin6801 Been here awhile

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    Great photos and videos! Fantastic landscape! I am looking forward to go there next year! Did you have a hard time with altitude?? What did you do to prepare for it or while you were there??
    It seems that you did not do the guided tour?? Was it an option for you??
    Thanks
    #25
  6. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    Altitude was only a problem on the first 2 days as we flew straight into cusco 3400 mtrs and jet lag didn't help:eek1 but 2 days to acclimatize and no problem from then on up to 4850 mtrs that we got to.
    You can't really train for altitude and it affects some people more than others, we had some Diamox but you could also try coca leaves as a tea drink, in fact our hotel manager, Mama gave us some when we arrived.Just take it easy for a few days.
    A guided tour was an option but these can be expensive and we like to stop and start when we want. The main drawback was Language especially in a crisis. I have a Garmin 60CSx gps and I got free maps from here http://www.perut.org/ which were very good but be careful in towns there are a lot of one way streets :lol3
    #26
  7. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    So the third day in Arequipa we decided to stay in town and have a bike free day, we walked around a bit this is near our hotel which was out of the tourist area.
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    And I had to take a pic of this palm tree

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    We made our way to Monasterio De Santa Catalina a monastery they call a city within a city and it's true is a bloody big place:lol3
    It's also good value as it will take a good half day to look around and gives a good insight into Spanish life in Peru in the mid 15th century.

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    Kitchen, one of many

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    Laundry

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    Impressive cactus garden on the rooftop

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    And a very large collection(over 400) of period religious paintings

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    Ran into these 2 on the way back so

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    And this parked on the footpath

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    Had a quiet night at the hotel,went out and and bought some ham and cheese and bread rolls at a supermarket and beer and smokes at another store, didn't take the gps only got slightly lost (damn one way streets)
    From the balcony

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    #27
  8. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    Not much in the way of pic's for this day which turned out to be not the best, we arose fairly early because we had about 480kms to travel.
    We both woke up with a dose of gastro, must have been the ham :puke1 the night before I'd put a waypoint to get us out of town, on the wrong highway 34e instead of 34A shouldn't drink and plan :evil so after spending an hour or so fighting for possession of the toilet we got underway. after about 15 mins on unfamiliar roads I stopped at a busy "T" intersection and was hit from behind by a women in an SUV although stationary we still fell over.:cry THIS is the time it helps to speak fluent Spanish:baldy lucky she was honest, with traffic chaos all around she wrote down her name and phone number and i got her car licence number, damage was minor
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    Shame about the new panniers.
    We got mobile again and I realized we were going the wrong way, replotted and went through the same road works twice , in peak hour traffic looking for a turnoff that was now gone. Found a way through and after 2.5 hours we got to the otherside of town but on the road that lead to a dirt road and still not finding anywhere to fill up. so back around the airport and finally onto the right hyway and a fuel stop. 3hrs , 20ks from the hotel:lol3
    Up in the mountains heading over the pass the weather turned bad we could see storms all around us and whirlwinds running next to and crossing the road. Then the sleet started, there was nothing to do but keep going:eek1 the arid landscape turned white I had to keep brushing my visor to see and my wife said the front of my jacket was just all ice when we went down in altitude we seemed to ride through it and we stopped about 70ks before Santa Lucia, we thawed out but the storm was closing in so we pushed on.

    Apart from much needed stops at El Bano's we got to Sicuani although we had to stop twice for my wife to throw up, I was very happy to get to the accomidation, no dinner just lots of water and bed.
    #28
  9. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    Next day only a short ride to Cusco, wife skipped breakfast and neither of us felt terrific so only a few pics
    Just a couple of bridges and a mud brick church:fpalm

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    #29
  10. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    We got back to Cusco pretty early and as we were staying at the same place they let us have the room then. We had a nap and then I returned the bike, They were relieved to see only minor damage so I gave them all the info I got from the woman and they would contact her to see if she would pay for a new handguard and hand grip otherwise I would have to, as it worked out she was honest and payed up.:clap
    The imodium had done their trick so I walked back to the hotel and in the afternoon we went for a slow walk just to get out and we had a lucky find.:clap
    We stumbled upon an indoor/ undercover soccer stadium hosting the womens university games. 5 a side including goaly concrete field :eek1 and the games were brilliant, free entry and the place filled up after we got there.
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    We watched 2 matches and the second one was a nailbiter with the side I decided to follow (in blue) being 3/1 down with only minutes to go then suddenly scoring twice to force extra time then a penalty shoot off.
    The blue side lost and sadly it was one off their best players that missed.
    The very vocal crowd was behind them and there were some insults swapped between the other team and the crowd as you can see in the video, also a policeman on the field to keep order, this was serious stuff.
    The vid is just some highlights and the shoot off.

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    Tomorrow we went to Machu Picchu
    #30
  11. pirate63

    pirate63 SUPA 10 PILOT

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    great report Gavo
    #31
  12. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

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    +1

    Really enjoyed your ride report and pictures! Strange how the beach near Mollendo looks practically abandoned, I bet there is quite a story behind the old deserted hotel.


    All the best,

    .
    #32
  13. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    So I know, there are lots of pic's of Machu Picchu on the net (not mine:D) and some people are even proud of the fact they haven't been there because it's so touristy but my wife really wanted to see it and I couldn't afford a private opening :cry so we joined the masses. She enjoyed it, I was put off by the amount of people. :eek1
    So here's a few pic's and I can cross it off the list :lol3
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    Showing the road the buses drive up

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    Aguas Calientes the drop off town , super touristy super pricey :eek1
    But scenic just the same.

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    So it's goodbye from us ,hope you enjoyed the RR

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    Just a couple of shots on the last day in Cusco, at Convento De Santo Domingo which was built on and around 15th century Inca Qorikancha

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    And yet another parade taken from near the Convent

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    #33
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  14. grizzzly

    grizzzly The Pre-Banned Version

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    cool pics thanks for shairing:clap
    #34
  15. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

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    A belated "thank you" for posting the great pictures and ride report. It brings to mind lots of fond memories of riding in Peru.

    Cheers,

    .
    #35
  16. Magoo_s Madness

    Magoo_s Madness Been here awhile

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    Thanks very much for sharing your trip , much appreciated .:clap
    Magoo
    #36
  17. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    Finally got around to putting together what little footage I had before the camera died.

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    #37
  18. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    All photos gone after 13/12/17 thanks to photobucket last chance :lol3
    #38
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  19. MissionNinja

    MissionNinja n00b

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    enjoyed the read, nice trip :)
    #39
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