Tie down points on an Aluminum trailer

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by rob, Jul 20, 2019.

  1. rob

    rob Been here awhile Supporter

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    I have an all aluminum trailer and have started to adapt it to carry my large bikes, BMW RT's (2) or one RT with a F800GS ADV or a Ural side car unit. I know I shouldn't use steel with the Al, but what would be the proper method to secure the E channel or tie down hooks?

    Thanks in advance.

    Rob in Kansas
    #1
  2. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

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    it'll be fine
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  3. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Check the bolts that are holding your axle on or the coupler up front. They are steel.

    E track or L track are good choices.
    #3
  4. Manrider218

    Manrider218 Been here awhile

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    +1
    [​IMG]
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    the_gr8t_waldo likes this.
  5. cagiva549

    cagiva549 whats a cagiva

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    Three strips of Etrak on the floor of my trailer one in the middle and one on each side , bolted thru the floor into the frame cross braces . harbor freight bike shoes off set so no banging handle bars with holes drilled thru the floor . Just drop a couple bolts thru a set of holes to hold the shoe in place while loading . I had tire straps made to tie the tires to the floor with ratchet straps like a car hauler , thousands of miles with my bikes inside my trailer and no problums .
    #5
  6. AwDang

    AwDang Long timer

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  7. showkey

    showkey Long timer

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    7B8AE61F-9041-4F4B-B1E0-8AD1AC701105.png Stainless “EYE” bolts.................more the better.
    #7
  8. PunkinHead

    PunkinHead Moobless Adventurer Super Supporter

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    I just did this a couple weeks ago. 10' strips of E-Track (cheap from a trucking supplier) through bolted with 1/4-20 bolts and nylocks. I used 1/4" thick strips of aluminum on the bottom side that spanned each set of holes to help distribute the load. The way my deck was fabricated I couldn't bolt directly through frame members. I bought a big stack of precut 1/4"x1.5"x6" aluminum stock off eBay and drilled two holes in them. They were dirt cheap because they're sold as drops from a machine shop. I couldn't have bought raw 6061 and.cut them myself for what I paid.
    #8
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  9. Strong Bad

    Strong Bad Former World's Foremost Authority Supporter

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    I have no idea what's up with that image, I couldn't see it, so I went to open it in a new tab and all of my Norton etc. went into full red alert!
    #9
  10. k-moe

    k-moe Long timer

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    You're probably thinking of the troubles that come from using stainless steel fasteners in aluminum in a marine environemnt. Not a worry at all to use regular steel, or stainless with a threadlocking compound to stave-off electrolysis.
    #10
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  11. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    OR, one could isolate the bolts with aluminium sleeves and washers....if you're really into isolating the two metals from each other
    #11
  12. BillMoore

    BillMoore Been here awhile Supporter

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    I have an aluminum trailer, and have bolted down l- track, some eye hooks, etc with stainless hardware. Trailer is now 9 years old, no issues.
    #12
  13. dhally

    dhally Hammerhead Supporter

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    My trailer has an aluminum deck. I installed Rivnuts then bolted down L track.
    #13
  14. Racerrrx

    Racerrrx Long timer

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    HELL NO... unless you like busting your ass tripping over shit.
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  15. Racerrrx

    Racerrrx Long timer

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  16. showkey

    showkey Long timer

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    You put the eyelets in the rails not the floor...........
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  17. Racerrrx

    Racerrrx Long timer

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    So, less pain but you have tiedowns running all over the place.
    #17
  18. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    I really like my aluminum trailer. It bothers me to put steel stuff in it or to over clutter it with weight. 6x12 enclosed, full height, fully kitted with spare and tie down hardware is 1120# no bikes.

    I likely worry too much but everything is backed with aluminum plate or “C” channel and either welded or bolted to the frame members. I ordered the trailer with 16” centers in place of the standard 24” centers for floors, walls and roof. I found aluminum “E” track and used the airline type stuff in the center. Pit-bull restraints are steel unfortunately. This setup is very adaptable for 1 to 3 bikes. We load track bikes, dirt bikes and dual-sport bikes. If bikes are over 400lbs (none of our above bikes are) we only load 2 max.

    2393FA9D-06E9-42AC-9CA8-AB8E1F9A85DE.jpeg FD008FA5-6C95-4225-9AB4-DB4AF2AF21C6.jpeg
    #18
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  19. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    bolt the front wheel mount etc to 3/4 ply thru tee nuts. cut ply to fit your trailer. with the bikes on the ply anything short of a rollover your bikes are not moving. add some forged eye bolts from lowes etc to tie down the rear. moved 2 bikes 1000miles, the straps were tight when I got there.. 2 straps per bike, 2 ea front n rear , 2 at the side to keep the vertical plain . 800-1000 lbs of bike on ply is not moving arround if fitted to the floor. we used 2x6 to fit the truck box and screwed them to the ply. forward and side fitted ply also is used on my pickup when hauling our bike. You then still have you trailer for other uses if need be.
    #19
  20. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    Not a fan of those Pit-Bull and other things that hold the bike up by the wheels. That's a lot of stress through the wheel bearings that they aren't designed for and wouldn't normally see. Also, too fiddly to install and use. I'm hauling many different bikes, so there's that too.
    Just a wheel chock and four tie downs on each bike. Haven't lost one since 1971.
    #20