Tips for stripping the R1200GSW (R1200GS-LC bodywork removal)

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Jarvis, Oct 14, 2013.

  1. Jarvis

    Jarvis DC GSer Administrator Super Moderator

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    I spent some time this rainy weekend taking the plastics off my new bike to install a Stebel, a PDM 60, and generally to see what's where.

    A few tips...

    The radiator cowl is held on by four screws and what BMW calls an expanding rivet. The rivet is at the inside and bottom of the cowl:

    [​IMG]

    To remove it, you have to punch out the center, as shown at around 45 secs in the video below. It took me a lot more than two taps, however. :lol3

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/M491PG0Ghfg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    End result...

    [​IMG]

    It's a one use item, and BMW sells replacements at 2/$0.50. (Part no. 51 46 7 002 606.)

    I didn't have any on hand, so I used a zip-tie to reattach the piece when I was finished.

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. Jarvis

    Jarvis DC GSer Administrator Super Moderator

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    The tank side cover (the black plastic piece above the battery cover) is held on by two screws and by two plastic pieces that slot into keyholes on the frame. This means that in order to remove the cover, you have to slide it rearward (after removing the screws of course).

    Here is the bike with the cover removed. You can see the upper keyhole pretty well; the lower keyhole is harder to see. It is open on one end and black, at the 11:00 position above the frame bolt in the picture.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the rear of the cover, showing the two plastic pieces that slot into the keyholes:

    [​IMG]
    #2
  3. Jarvis

    Jarvis DC GSer Administrator Super Moderator

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    Others should please add to this thread... has anyone pulled the battery yet?
    #3
  4. LaurelPerryOnLand

    LaurelPerryOnLand Long timer

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    Excellent...excellent...excellent video.:clap:clap:clap

    Congratulations on a great HOW TO video...wish that others would do the same for various procedures when they do them...HINT...HINT...HINT.:D

    GREAT VIDEO QUALITY, as well.
    #4
  5. Jarvis

    Jarvis DC GSer Administrator Super Moderator

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    Thanks, but not my video... just an embed.
    #5
  6. Ding-Dong

    Ding-Dong Been here awhile

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    This is one i stripped earlier, easy peasy.

    [​IMG]
    #6
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  7. snsbeemer

    snsbeemer Adventurer

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    Jarvis,
    Is there an installation kit you bought somewhere for the Stebel?
    #7
  8. oalvarez

    oalvarez Resident Raggamuffin

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    thank you for this.
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  9. k1w1t1m

    k1w1t1m Kiwi

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    I'd check the automotive body repair places and suppliers for those expanding rivets. Many times they have a place where you can lift the center up with a pick or small screwdriver and reuse them.
    #9
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  10. Jarvis

    Jarvis DC GSer Administrator Super Moderator

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    Rocketmoto has them. PM him for a discount code for adv members.

    (I ordered mine from Sierra BMW. The bracket and screw/nut combo for attaching the bracket to the horn that came with mine were not correct.)
    #10
  11. Jarvis

    Jarvis DC GSer Administrator Super Moderator

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    Maybe next time you can take some pics for the greater good.... would like to know how to take off the tank cover and tank, as well as any tips for battery removal.
    #11
  12. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    The tank cover is an easy 5 bolts, all obvious.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Jim :brow
    #12
  13. JetSpeed

    JetSpeed Naviator

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    I've had the side intake/radiator cover off a few times and used an awl and gently pushed (not hit) the center of the rivet all the way thru without any problems and was able to re-use the plastic rivet each time.
    I think the problem lies in what tool you use and how hard you smack it.

    The battery is a breeze to remove, one Torx fastener on the battery cover, unhook the rubber strap at the lower ends and the battery slides out toward you, undo the cables ant its out.
    #13
  14. mefly2

    mefly2 Long timer

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    Same as JS above with one caveat ... if you strip off all of the plastic, be sure to note that the fasteners are not all the same length. I marked my longer ones (that are covered by other panels) with a felt tip pen marker. IIRC, the longer ones were at the front and screwed into the frame by the headlight mount at the rear of the beak. Also, the clear fastener "washers" will easily deform if you do not exercise caution... especially at the rear of the tank.

    Although they were reusable a couple of times, I replaced the BMW "expanding rivet" radiator lower fasteners with plastic/nylon screw type expanding units.
    #14
  15. marchyman

    marchyman DR and GS Supporter

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    The center part that you punch out may go flying, too.

    ???? I'm on at least use number 3 for mine. That's why I pay attention to where they go flying. :deal I will order some replacements to have on hand. Thanks for the part number.

    As for the screws... the screws are the same size: it is the shoulder length that is different. It's easy to to put the wrong screw where the air snorkel is fastened. I discovered this when I had 3 short shouldered and one long shouldered screw left when I needed 4 short shoulder screws. :bluduh.
    #15
  16. iride4u

    iride4u Been here awhile

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    Instead of the two piece rivets that BMW sells I use body panel pins from a auto store.
    #16
  17. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

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    Would you by any chance still have the packaging or some kind of info about what fits? Seems a shame to use a sacrificial part if a commonly available reusable part could be used.
    #17
  18. deacon51

    deacon51 Been here awhile

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    New tip: I decided that instead of punching out the expanding rivet on the radiator cowl I would let mine hang. Don't do this! I bumped mine and the radiator cowl snapped at the rivet. Don't risk a $40 part for a 25 cent rivet.
    #18
  19. oalvarez

    oalvarez Resident Raggamuffin

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    to remove the painted, front fender trim piece (the beak) one must remove the grey side panels + black air intake cover + silver radiator plastic covers, first.......yes?

    tia,
    #19
  20. ironklad

    ironklad Been here awhile

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    The air box isn't trim but considering once the trim is off it is easy to remove the fuel tank and air box here is a tip...the only special tool called for to get as far as removing the air box is a pair of pliers to remove/install the Oetiker low profile clamps. I believe these are usually used on CV joints as well, I was about to go hunting for a set of pliers when I did a quick test with a pair of flat tip pliers and the clamps easily popped off and back on. I'll eventually pick up the correct pliers but in the meantime this method works and does not appear to mar the clamps so long as you take care not to let the pliers slip.

    To remove use this placement, I used light pressure against the clamp to prevent slipping off and the clamp very easily popped off.
    [​IMG]

    To reinstall use this placement, again with light pressure against the clamp and light pressure they popped back into place very easily.
    [​IMG]

    These are the flat tip pliers I used, Knipex 13 01 160, great multi-use pliers which I keep on the bike. I prefer the right tool for the job, but in a pinch these worked great.
    [​IMG]
    #20