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Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by HOTPASS, Mar 31, 2018.
I think we lost the OP.
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What is the brand name and model # of the rim?
I hate that when it happens!
DR rims are tube type, so assuming the OP has a tube in it; removing the value core or using a bead blaster or a tie down around the tire would have no bearing on the result. But it's an aftermarket rim so it could be tubeless, OP has never given us this info. ?? But he has gotten it to hold air, because he said when he deflates it, it falls in to the valley with the push of two fingers. So if it tubeless or tubed doesn't matter as he is getting it "beaded up" well enough to hole air. It just falls in when deflating. So could it be that the new rim just doesn't have a "safety bead" or "mounting hump" ? Therefore there is nothing to hold the bead out against the outside of the rim. OR does the rim have a safety bead or mounting hump and the tire is not popping over it ? A picture of the aired up tire and rim and a picture of the inside bead flange of the wheel would help a lot, for understanding the problem.
Asking this question for my education: are there standard bead and rim profiles?
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Try a ratcheting strap around the center of the tire and ratchet it down, effectively squeezing the bead outward, before airing it up.
Yes....and one of the major topics of
Discontent between motorcycle tire and car tire on a motorcycle discussions
Yes. But there's quite a number of them.
Sounds like a defective tire. If the bead is lubricated and he's been to 100psi, then something is wrong with either the rim or tire.
A seated tire means the tire bead is pressed fully up against the outer lip of the rim from inflation, on a tube tire & rim it has nothing to do with being able to squeeze the tire with your fingers when deflated.
I had this exact problem mounting a 120/70-17 PR3 that had been sitting in my garage for 2 years. The tire had taken a 'set' with the beads only an inch or so apart. No amount of loob, ratcheting, wiggling, swearing or offerings to the gods would get it to seat.
The bead blaster took care of it in 2 seconds. It cost me 2 coffees. Best money I ever spent.
It's the Pro Wheel rim, they're made in China, built a set for my CRF using Pro Wheel rims, neither tire will seat completely, the rim is simply to big in diameter from the factory where they are rolled and welded together.
Said that on first reply, made in China
It's not uncommon for narrow dirt bike specific rims to lack any type of welt or rise to keep the tire against the rim with little or no air pressure. I've had multiple (especially front) rims that I could squeeze with my hand and unseat when deflated. I don't think it's a problem.
Assuming that's what he's trying to describe. If he means the tire doesn't ever come into contact with the outer flange of the rim, then that's an actual problem...
We had a similar problem on my wife's front tire. This was at a small shop, so I watched while 2 experts struggled with it.
The solution was a giant pair of tongs, like you might use to get metal objects out of a forge. One guy inflated, while the other guy pulled on the tire at multiple points around the circumference. Eventually, all parts of the tire were pulled up on the bead.
He told me to keep it at 70 psi for a while before dropping the pressure.
Yeah, they're pretty good!
I fought with one like this on an old Intruder. Nothing would make it seat. I tried everything except giving up and taking it to a tire shop.
So of course, I gave up and took it to a tire shop. They took the rim back in their shop, I heard a pretty loud POP, and they brought me my tire back correctly mounted. They said it took 120 psi. Yikes. I aired it up to 60 and was getting nervous.
Sounds like it's the tire bead circ, or the rim bead circ. Or both. Seen this happen with knobbies that were "re-capped."
I'd hesitate using anything that didn't "fit as designed" when it comes to tires/wheels. Tires go flat, then come off their beads are a recipe for disaster.
I've used a length of rope, placed around the outer circumference and center of the of the tire tread, then a breaker bar twisted around the two ends to tighten the rope until the tire is spread, and pushed up against the bead. Apply air nozzle, move the tire back n' forth until a seal is achieved, and it usually works.