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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by meat popsicle, May 9, 2005.
that's a big tool max...
show and tell, featuring torque wrenches!
keep em coming!
It goes 25-250 inch pounds,S-K model 74025.
3/8" drive, works great for cam caps, valve cover bolts, side cover bolts, etc.
I just won an auction on this:
CDI torque wrench
0-150 in. lbs.
new with case
the 3/8in drive isn't a liability with the small stuff? i agree with creeper that it seems like overkill. but this one was the right price so i couldnt pass it up.
Here's the one I won yesterday on auction:
Snap-On 1/4" 30 - 200 in. lbs
Christ... it's suddenly raining torque wrenches.
You guys will be much happier knowing what's what instead of guessing.
better than raining men... :eek1
LC4, did you get that on eBay? Seemed to me the Snap On stuff is so trendy that the prices are as high as retail. Kinda like Mac Tools.
That is my big complaint against eBay now; some used things go as high or higher than I could go buy them at a local store... Only things that the masses don't recognize go for "auction" prices.
Like the handmade in Italy Marino Orlandi leather satchel that I got for Mrs. Pop for aboot $100 whereas the mass produced stuff the masses recognize goes for double that :huh
Yeah, I did get it on eBay for about 1/2 of what the Snap-On site sells it for. It was still a lot of money, but 1/4" T.W.'s are harder to come by than 3/8"T.W.'s
I have a 3/8" beam style Craftsman that I've been using for a couple of years, but I'll eventually replace it with a clicker type one too.
And I agree about eBay. It's harder and harder to find stuff that I consider a good deal.
I just bought one of these for under $50 delivered!
the retail is around $150...
people don't know CDI so they are cheap-er.
I now have two CDI's, the little one is a fancy dial one (last page) and the big one is a pretty good clicker (i think). both for aboot 100 but shoulda been 300
good choice meat. dial torque wrenches are the most accuate by far.
here's my 3/8"... i have a 1/4" the same, but my 1/2" is a digital snap-on... if they still had them in 1/2" dials for les than $750 i'd get one.. the digitals are half that and you can see why when its in yer hand.
onward dial torque wrenches
thanks, I got lucky because the CDI wrenches don't seem to be as well known as the Snap On stuff, to the eBay Horde. I picked up that dial wrench for under $60 delivered and its brand new. It lists for $160 plus tax and shipping Comes with a NIST traceable cert (I can figure out what it is but I haven't ever had a wrench with one )
I just missed on this one:
someone went over my self imposed limit of $50 bid. Oh well. But it is a 1/2in dial wrench; CDIs lists this one for $275 or thereaboots.
I ended up with a CDI clicker for ft.lb - plenty exact enough for my big stuff. Got it brand new for under $50 delivered and it lists for $160 as well.
here you go meat... at werk... we use this one on our machines. torques them little bolts to 2500 lbs/ft easily... i believe it goes up to 5000 in this config, and 10,000 with another gear case. it's 1" drive.
aaaarrrr! ogh, ogh, ogh, ogh... ooogah!
what's that nice lookin machined piece in the middle?
bigger is better right? i mean all those people whining aboot red loctite not lettin' go - that would take care those buggahs eh?
that piece in the middle is the spline drive to hold the wrench whie it's turning. the socket under the spline turns and torques your bolt, and the other socket goes on the next bolt in line for leverage. this jig is used on one specific job.
bigger is always better! we laugh in the face of red loctite.
can't beat job-specific tools!
i wonder if the red loctite would hold strong enough to just make that beast torque the stud right out? that would suck...
we use red loctite 270, or 262 on every bolt in our machinery. application dictated high heat, or regular "non removable". loctite decreases the torque value quite a bit, as it acts like a lubricant... if torque is specified at 25 lbs/ft, torque with loctite is about 20. most manufacturers specify a dry and lubricated torque.
removing loctited bolts isn't an issue at all. i don't know why they call it permanent... it aint! it's just a little stronger than his "removable" little brother.
if a stud comes out of a hole it can easily be cleaned, loc tited, and put back in the same way it came out!
remember to always use this shit on all bolts. if not there aint much point in using loctite....
thanks for pointing out the "lubed" torque specification change; didn't know that
the Loctite website says the red stuff is for things not requiring routine maintenance but they do say they release with heat and hand tools. not sure why any bolt should be permanently locked - kinda illogical to me
and thanks for the tip on cleaning the bolt too - didn't know how important it was.
This just showed up:
now I know how Luke felt when he got his first light saber!
now i have to prepare for a VERY important interview - great job, 50% pay raise
wish me luck and stop bothering me!
Ok, interview over; we'll see...
Now just a little clarification on the proper execution of the use of a torque wrench. This one is a dial wrench so you gotta stop when the needle hits the right spot or you will go over. The bigger one is what they call a "clicker" I believe; and it will let go when the setting is reached?
Anywho, aboot the dial one: I noticed as I was correcting the front end and torquing the tripple clamp properly (big relief I tell you what!) - where there is two bolts side by side I could go back and forth between the a couple of times and continue to turn them some even though the previous couple of times the reached the desired torque. Is this correct I should check a couple of times to make sure the screw is really at spec?
BTW, these were 7 and 15 Nm torques so this is real light stuff with a 3/8s drive. It wasn't difficult to give them the touch; the CDI was real nice and sensitive.