Trails of South America (PtI)... a photo journal

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by JediMaster, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. KrstjnG

    KrstjnG KrstjnG

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    Thanks for sharing these beautiful pictures describing your great journey
  2. badguy

    badguy Susan

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    I think Adrian nailed it here - PNG files allow for transparency, and this chart is expecting a white or light colored background. The black text blends into the background and all you see is the PNG's highlighting around it. Try switching to the "Fresh" theme for ADV (down in the corner of the page) and it'll show up right on the light background. If you can convert the image to GIF or JPG it might fix it.

    Having said that, thanks and keep up the amazing work!
  3. V-Twin-Maniac

    V-Twin-Maniac Been here awhile

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    phantastic RR and phantastic pictures :clap

    just added you on FB!
  4. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    Thanks for your input guys. I converted the .png to .jpg and it worked just like you suggested. :clap

    I've been on a steep IT learning curve since I left home and you've just provided the latest lesson...nice one! :thumb

    Internet unreliable this morning but I'll try and get another post up during the day.
  5. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    After a decent nights kip I returned to the Mirrador and picked up the road down to the village of Cotahuasi. I rode on through the village and turned SW to descend to the river...

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    A little further on the road climbs the Canyon wall which it hugs for much of the ride...

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    It's a long way down...:eek1

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    You can just see the road in the distance...

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    Great colours on the Canyon walls...

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    Eventually the Canyon widened slightly and reminded me of Baja in miniature; or Baja in a can(yon) as I came to think of it :D

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    The road ends with a staging area for the donkey trains that supply the remote communities around the canyon. Navigating the canyon from here on is manageable only by kayak. Downstream from here the canyon reaches its deepest point. At 3354m its the deepest canyon in the world – twice as deep as Arizona’s Grand Canyon!

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    ...unless anyone fancies giving it a go by bike...

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    Retracing my tracks I stopped for a few more pics before riding back to the Mirrador...

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    :eek1:eek1:eek1...

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  6. badguy

    badguy Susan

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    Glad I could help a little...it's the least I can do in return for these spectacular photos :thumb
  7. McRosog

    McRosog Shadowking

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    Awesome! Photography is unreal! Keep up! :clap:clap:clap:clap

    Subscribed!
  8. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    It was late afternoon by the time I returned to the mirrador. I thought about returning to my previous nights bushcamp but that thought was soon overwhelmed by the thought of the late afternoon sun on the high pampa.

    I rode approx 35km south from the mirrador, crossed the river and turned due east towards Andagua which put Nevado Coropuna on my right...

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    I passed a few llama farms but they were the only sign of life; nothing moved on the road except me.

    With less than an hour to go before sunset and riding at 4700m (15400ft) the last thing I wanted to do was get wet feet but I had no choice...

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    There was nowhere to ‘hide’ my tent but neither was there any traffic and as the track was absolutely straight I reasoned that once it was dark no headlights would see me. As it was, I didn’t see another soul. At 4577m it was my highest camp to date so I was surprised to discover it was a ‘mild’ -7°C (19F) when I awoke.

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    I awoke early and caught the pre-dawn glow...

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    It was a stony ride to the head of the 'Valley of the Volcanoes'...

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    Beyond Andagua I continued on towards Chachas and after a few corners was suddenly struck by the realization of what I was actually looking at. Ahead of me, stretching for miles, was a lava flow through which a road had been cut.

    Check out that wall of lava!

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    In the valley are approximately 80 extinct volcanoes formed by geothermal activity during the Quarternary Period (the past 2.6 million years), a phenomenon so unusual it occurs in only two places; here and the Canary Islands. This is the view back across the valley from Chachas towards Andagua. Its hard to create a sense of scale but in the next photo the lower ¾ of the picture is lava!

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    The road stopped at Chacas and so I rode back through Andagua and back up the valley to the plateau where I took a turn off below the weather station south towards Machahuay, Viraco and Tipan. The weather had started to turn and I was keen to loose some altitude.

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    The track descended steeply from the plateau through beautifully engineered stone walled terraces to the green and fertile Llacilajo Valley. Beyond Tipan the valley narrowed considerably, the road cut into the valley side way above the river. Daylight had left the valley by the time I arrived but I so wanted to see it in good daylight that I set about finding a bush camp. At first I thought it would be impossible but on a bend in the road there was an unusual formation of spoil leftover from some road construction and after moving enough rocks to get Rosie ‘inside’ and out of view I pitched my tent. In the morning I climbed up the valley side and waited for the sun to strike the road before snapping a few photos.

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    KneeDrachen likes this.
  9. macarron

    macarron Adventurer

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    Riding and camping alone in such high desolate places must be really hard. Bravo!
  10. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    I was glad I made the effort to sleep in the canyon as the ride out in daylight was stunning. At Andamayo I rejoined tarmac, at El Alto I rejoined the Pan Americana heading for Arequipa.

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    I passed through the southern outskirts of Arequipa, topped up with gas and stopped for camping supplies. An indigenous campesino woman selling a variety of things from a large basket outside a shop front asked me where I was from. When I told her England she nearly fell off her stool as she exclaimed “Ooooohhhh….muy lejos!!!” (very far). Unfortunately she declined having her photo taken.
    In Mollebaya I picked up a dirt road that would eventually lead me to Puquina, Omate and on to Torata. It began with plenty of shallow sand and bull dust and became so rough and stony that I was sure the USAF had been there before me.


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    Late afternoon I spotted a radio station high on a ridge. Even from a distance it looked like a great spot to camp and I decided that the chances of it being manned were slim and if it was, well I could ask. It was a narrow, sandy track that led up to the tower and it proved to be a bit of a battle with the type of rear tyre I had. On a few occasions I got bogged down to a standstill and had to dismount to get my weight off the saddle before running alongside, pushing and twisting the throttle to get to firmer ground where I could remount. Eventually I made it to the top where I found the place to be deserted and after a bit more struggling managed to get Rosie to where I wanted to make camp.
    Looking SW towards the Pacific I had a stunning 180° view across the peaks and valleys and over the next village of Coalaque (I didn’t know it was there until the lights came on!) which meant that I was not only treated to a special sunset, but sunrise as well.


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  11. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer Supporter

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    A continual thanks, Adam. Always good living vicariously through you while I chase the cheese with the rest in the maze.

    Whilst I long for the solitude you enjoy, I know me. I think it would be nice in small doses but honestly, I haven't tried it. I may never come home.

    I'll most likely always need a touchstone, while yours travels with you.

    Safe travels.
    KneeDrachen likes this.
  12. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    I hear what you're saying. I would love a base to return to for a couple of months each year. Somewhere to keep my books and bicycles and a proper computer for sorting out my photo's. Somewhere to take stock of the previous 10 months and to plan for the next 10.

    Unfortunately my finances dictate that I'm either traveling or I'm not, and 'not' isn't an option!

    Good to hear from you as always TrophyHunter :thumb
  13. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    I'm continually following along even when I'm on the road a well. Your updates are always appreciated. The photos are always amazing.

    Even though this trip it wil be unlikely to visit south America I will no doubt be spurred on in the future to visit it from these images!
  14. Shane Von Cycles

    Shane Von Cycles Adventurer

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    JediMaster: "Not" isn't an option"

    When I'm at work I sometimes think: "I wonder what JediMaster is up to right now?"
    Thanks for the daily inspiration!
  15. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> Seasons greetings to all!


    I'm afraid I've fallen a little(!) behind with this RR :nono but the past month has been pretty hectic.:tough



    I left La Paz, Bolivia on November 28<sup>th</sup>, entered Brazil by boat, left Brazil by boat and in between spent 36hrs on a boat along the Amazon River. When I wasn’t on a boat I was in the jungle and so what little internet access I had was spent either researching the next leg of my journey or trying to track down a new set of steering head bearings. (All that to come in Chapter 29)


    I’ve just updated the site with ‘Chapter 28 – The Altiplano’ :clap


    At 15,000+ words it’s a bit of an epic…but so was my ride! :eek1


    So what’s in store in chapter 28?

    Well there’s the ‘Curse of the Lagunas’, Rosie suffered her first roadside failures and I rode further than I ever have in one day on a motorcycle…and that’s just the beginning.


    So for those of you looking for an excuse to escape the in-laws during the Christmas period, here it is! :rofl
  16. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,470
    Location:
    Okie near Muskogee
    Freakin awesome ADam:clap:clap:clap

    I will be in Venezuela around the Feb and March, hope to see you then and unload some information from you:deal

    Should be heading back to Cali in the first part of Jan '12 and really looking forward to it.

    Hope you got to ride BR319 to Manaus and then down the Amazon.

    Catch you later man, keep up the great work!

    John
  17. Tradey

    Tradey RTW Traveller

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    383
    Location:
    Bairnsdale, Vic, Australia
    Hola Adam and Merry Christmas from 'downunder', it's already the 25th today and your RR will be my ADV present. Scott and Joanne say hello from the frozen 'wasteland' of Reno all rugged up in front of a fire and we're all off for a BBQ lunch then down the beach later :rofl

    We stuffed some bucks in your 'stocking' so have a drink on us !
  18. crashmaster

    crashmaster ow, my balls!

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,566
    Location:
    Alaska

    Epic!!!!!! :clap:clap:clap Just an epic segment amigo. It seems like you just couldnt get a break. I could feel your pain, even with your understated writing style. :D

    Yup, the new KTM 350 EXC, and Vinny wants one, bad......

    Feliz Navidad, from a posh hotel in Dubai, working of course. Its just a slight step above the El Carratero in La Paz. :lol3 But, I'll trade you all my posh hotel layovers for another week in the altiplano. :freaky

    Where are you these days? Looking forward to the Amazon and the Guianas through your lens.
  19. sergiophoto

    sergiophoto travelingphotog

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Hola Adam!

    This is Sergio, enjoying a crisp Xmas day in Boulder with snow on the ground and sunny skies. A bit chilly but still nice to enjoy winter with snow. I loved reading Chapter 28, epic! I wanted to say Oscar and I enjoyed ourselves in your company very much. We're both quite jealous (in a good way) on your RTW adventures and long for them ourselves. Nonetheless, we have our own adventures to experience so as long as we don't have to suffer in an office we're good to go. Thanks again for helping me out with the photo and video shoot in Bolivia. I have some very nice images that will help us promote our motorcycle tours in 2012. I will find a way for you to download them and send a link soon. I hope your transformation from JPG to RAW is going smoothly, please ask any questions when you need help. Take care of yourself in the jungle and make sure to shake out your shoes before putting them on. I found a nice plump and hairy spider in my shoe in the amazon recently and scared the snot out of me! Yikes! Best wishes and please let me or Oscar know if we can be of help in any way. Big hugs and warm wishes to you and enjoy the new year.

    Sergio

    www.sergiophoto.com
  20. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    Throttlemeister - Sounds like good timing to me dude! I reckon I'll arrive in Venezuela around the 3rd week of Jan and plan on having a good look around.

    Tradey - Thanks for 'stuffing my stocking' :thumb I'll raise a glass to you here in Paramaribo! :beer

    Crashmaster - Glad you enjoyed the read. I don't like to use the term 'epic' too often but I have to admit that this time I think it was appropriate! :eek1 The pain I felt was on the Salar and that was self-inflicted by being a fuckwit. The rest was just well, the way it is when you take to the high mountains. Glad to hear my pain was 'shared' :rofl
    Ahhh...El Carratero. It became my second home this year, visiting as I did three times. Hard to believe but after a week in the mountains it felt like luxury!

    Sergiophoto - Now that's a picture I'm struggling to conjour up in my head. I got stuck in traffic riding into Paramaribo yesterday and in dirct sunlight my temp gauge hit 46C (115F). My only association with the snow was that I too was melting!
    My transformation for jpeg to RAW is coming along ok but currently being hindered by a broken laptop screen. After 5 years rattling around on the back of my bike it finally succumb to the road north from Rurrenabaque :waysad

    HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!