Trails of South America (PtI)... a photo journal

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by JediMaster, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    Especially for Crashmaster...

    Following on from the last pic in the valley, the road climbed through Leimebamba to a pass at 3600m on the Cordillera Central, affording great views across the Rio Mara<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> <w:UseFELayout/> 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    From the pass the road takes 60km to drop 2.7 vertical kilometre's to the river below...:ricky

    [​IMG]

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    Just south of Balsas I stopped at the roadside to soak up the view and to try and spot somewhere to camp when English couple Mark & Claire (riding 2 XT600's) who I'd originally met at Casa Blanca Hostel in Cali, Colombia and had spent quite a lot of time with in Ecuador arrived. :clap

    [​IMG]

    Back on the east side of the river along the road to Bolivar we found a couple of guys building a new house by the river. They were so stunned when we asked if we could camp there that they just said yes and looked on in amazement as we pitched our tents.

    [​IMG]


    One of them came to work on what appeared to be a home made bike...

    [​IMG]

    Check out that welding...:eek1

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    The following mornings climb out of the valley to the pass at 3200m...

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    The view back into the valley...

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    From the pass the road descends into the market town of Celedin...

    [​IMG]

    Where they are obviously very proud of their hats...

    [​IMG]

    To be continued...
    #61
  2. crashmaster

    crashmaster ow, my balls!

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,566
    Location:
    Alaska

    Yeah, there is so much spectacular stuff there that it all runs together. :lol3 The route to Huanuco from Chavin was epic as well like a dozen others in the region. Cold though. :eek1

    Damn I wish i was there riding with you. I'm back at work. :cry

    Great pics Adam! Keep em coming amigo! :freaky
    #62
  3. sergiophoto

    sergiophoto travelingphotog

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Hola,

    I'm from La Paz, Bolivia and will begin my Latin America travels next June. I currently live in Boulder, CO. I wanted to find out where you got the Xtra Large gas tank for your bike (it seems it's a F650 GS) is that correct? If it is, I NEED one of those. Any ideas where I can begin to source one out. I leave in 10 months so there is time.

    Gracias

    Sergio Ballivian :wink:

    www.sergiophoto.com
    #63
  4. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,464
    Location:
    Okie near Muskogee
    I'll help you out Sergio-

    Adam did have a bmw f650gs with Touratech 39 liter tank kit now he is riding a suzuki dr650 with a safari 8gal tank

    Check: http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/376/PN-100-1100/Touratech-39L-Tank-Kit-F650GS-TT39 lots of money for lots of range. You may want to rig a suzuki after all:lol3 safari tanks lots cheaper:deal

    Keep it coming Adam:clap
    #64
  5. AspentureRider

    AspentureRider Rube

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    164
    Location:
    Aspen, CO
    A friend just linked me to your RR.
    It's amazing what is possible- you are truly inspiring. And one hell of a great photographer.
    Thanks for sharing!
    #65
  6. pfdavidz

    pfdavidz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    228
    Very inspiring trip. Thank you for sharing.
    Columbia (and the girl) looks amazing :lol3

    Safe travels!
    #66
  7. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    Hi Sergio,

    It's a shame you're not at home, I arrived in La Paz on Friday afternoon after a snap decision to change my plans at 1330 the previous day.
    It would have been nice to swap some bike info for some photographic workflow/processing info over a few beers!
    I had a good look through your site...very nice. Beautiful photos. I particularly liked the 'World Landscapes' and 'Real People' galleries. :thumb

    Throttlemeister has correctly answered your question about my F650 fuel tank. Before you invest a LOT of money in your F650 you may want to read this - http://shortwayround.co.uk/maintenance/ Perhaps followed by this - http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

    I'm working on the next installment of this thread and should have in posted this afternoon...as long as the internet doesn't crash...again...:baldy
    #67
  8. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    OK, so it may seem a bit odd to be posting a map and final stats in the middle of a thread but that's just the way its worked out!
    As mentioned in the above post I made a snap decision on Thursday afternoon to scrap my plans to re-visit Chile. I spent much longer than I expected to in Peru and I was becoming increasingly concerned that trying to fit in a loop around northern Chile and Bolivia before I head for the Amazon was too much. This way will allow me to have a relaxed ride through Bolivia - and maybe even find time to update my website!

    Now that I've left the country here's a few stats:

    Days in country - 57
    Days riding - 32
    Trip total-6982km
    Trip (Dirt roads) - 3193km

    Flys Lo - You got me thinking about making a map to go with this thread so I did...

    ShortWayRound - Peru 2011 (w.Waypoints)

    <object codebase="http://fpdownload.macromedia.com/get/flashplayer/current/swflash.cab" height="450" width="600">

    <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.everytrail.com/swf/widget.swf" quality="high" flashvars="units=english&mode=0&key=ABQIAAAA_7wvFEi7gGngCZrOfos63hSN1xyBy-BzBD--25ZLXpVi3GfbehTQlZCXdpUFII2A5CGeExVTCyX1ow&tripId=1236552&startLat=-4.978570612&startLon=-79.116193866&mapType=Hybrid&" play="true" pluginspage="http://www.adobe.com/go/getflashplayer" height="300" width="400"></object>

    Next up...where I left off in post #61...
    #68
  9. Misery Goat

    Misery Goat Positating the negative Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    130,354
    Location:
    Valle del Sol AZ
    I think it is San Marcos that has the river flowing through it. When I was there the bridge was closed and you had to ride down a trail to a riverside trail that took you north out of the city. I think this is where I missed the road to to the mine and ultimately the road to La Union. I ended up going further north and grabbing the next range east. Small road and big fucking mountains. Lots of rain/red mud and mostly quechua speaking folks. I road mostly east and then had to come south where the road got bigger and went down to 9K ft. Then I hit the fork indicating La Union was west of me by ~40k and Huanuco was to the east about ~90K. So I went ahead and pushed to Huanuco rather than back track.
    #69
  10. Flys Lo

    Flys Lo cool hand fluke

    Joined:
    May 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    321
    Location:
    between my last drink and my next one
    Gracias amigo :)


    I might see if I can pilfer some of your route suggestions for our trip!
    #70
  11. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    From Celedin the road continued to climb gently across farmland before commencing its descent towards Cajamarca, becoming tarmac along the way.
    I really liked Cajamarca. A typically picturesque South American Plaza de Armas (Central Plaza) surrounded by a Cathedral, Bishops Palace and a convent, all with elaborately carved facade's and beautifully lit at night.


    [​IMG]



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    I rode around for ages trying to find a place to stay with parking. When I did finally find somewhere so Mark & Claire turned up! Seems they already knew about the place.
    Great company as always we wasted no time in taking full advantage of Cajamarma's place at the centre of northern Peru's dairy production and soon acquired a whole fresh cheese from the market along with a bottle of red, fresh bread and a bag of olives, etc…


    [FONT=&quot][​IMG][/FONT]


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    I said goodbye to Mark & Claire who were heading for the coast and set off SE through Cajabamba and Huamachuco to pick up a dirt road atop a high pass.
    I then followed the following route: Angasmarca - Mollebamba - Mollepata - Pallasca - Huacaschuque - Huandoval - Cabana - then back onto tarmac through Tauca - Ancos - Chuquicara - east into Canyon to bush camp then backtrack to just NE of Ancos where I picked up the dirt road through Santa Rosa - Llapo (detour) - Conamires - Bambas - Yupan - La Pampa - SW to Rio Santa Valley - Yuracmarca - Huallanca (Canyon del Pato) - Huaraz.
    Because of all the stops for photos and my detour to Llapo it took me 3days/2 nights.


    It was a rough track under sullen skies that led to the nondescript mining settlement of Angasmarca where I found a place to stay full of miners.


    The following morning I continued south through Mollebamba and [FONT=&quot]Mollepata towards Pallasca on the opposite side of this valley...
    [/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot][​IMG][/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot]Down in the Valley... The GPS describes this as 'Intermittent Stream'!
    [/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot][​IMG][/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot][​IMG][/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot][​IMG][/FONT]


    Looking back at the road into the valley...


    [FONT=&quot][​IMG][/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot]To be continued...
    [/FONT]


    [FONT=&quot]
    [/FONT]
    #71
    KneeDrachen likes this.
  12. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    I passed through Pallasca...

    [​IMG]

    And Huacasschuque...

    [​IMG]

    Eventually rejoining tarmac around Cabana...I think

    The view from the Cabana - Ancos road...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Through Tauca and on towards Chuquicara...

    [​IMG]



    OK, so not a dirt road, but a cracking ride down the valley to Chuqicara where the dirt started again...

    [​IMG]

    In the canyon east of Chuquicara I found a place to camp, but first I needed a windbreak so I could make a brew...

    [​IMG]

    Then I pitched my tent...

    [​IMG]

    Goodnight!
    #72
    KneeDrachen likes this.
  13. crashmaster

    crashmaster ow, my balls!

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,566
    Location:
    Alaska
    I know I sound like a broken record, but once again, great photos! You were seriously in the ass end of nowhere on that route, nicely done. :freaky

    This one really speaks to me. Looks almost identical to the road going down into Abancay from Andahualas. Andes riding at its finest.

    [​IMG]
    #73
  14. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    337
    Location:
    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    When my ears are red raw and begging me not to remove my helmet again to take another photo, I think of you guys, of your comments, tell my ears to :stfu and 'git 'er dun', feeling a strange camaraderie. ALL comments are appreciated however often they're repeated. Nice one Vinnie, I appreciate your input :thumb
    #74
  15. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,686
    Location:
    Currently - Canada
    Hopefully you don't mind, but for all those following and dreaming, do you mind if I ask how you manage to fund the experience?

    I'm hoping to take off this winter to do 3-6 month trip, but the funds are what hold me back. I can't imagine 5 years!

    If it's none of my damn business simply state that :norton
    #75
  16. Kodi

    Kodi Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Europa
    Amazing Photos !:clap:clap:clap
    #76
  17. PinkPillion

    PinkPillion Husqy pilot too...

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    563
    Location:
    Northeastern California
    Truly breathtaking photography. Every picture is my favorite. :D Thank you so much for sharing a bit of South America. Waiting for more!!
    #77
  18. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,639
    Location:
    San Diego
    My wife and I had the pleasure of hosting Jedi before he crossed into Mexico. Truly a quality person and beyond appreciative of all. I'll leave the funding question for him if he chooses but let me just say it's slim pickins. He has a DONATE button on his site which gets pushed occasionally depending on our budget.

    Every small bit helps and for those who've benefitted from his tales and pics, give it a thought. He's gonna kick my ass via email for mentioning this, as he would never himself.

    I'll never see where this ride has taken me and contribute a little here & there to continue my vicarious life.

    Consider getting involved in http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ too if you can. We're all here to help each other and it doesn't take much.

    Can't wait for the full update, Jedi......safe travels.
    #78
  19. sergiophoto

    sergiophoto travelingphotog

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Hola Throttlemeister,

    Thanks for the info. Do you know if Safari makes tanks for the F650GS?

    It seems not too many things are made for that bike model....yes?

    If the Touratach tanks (which is ridiculously priced BTW) adds so much (besides expense), how else do you think one can take more gas for the F650GS? Besides taking more bottles or jerry-cans of one sort or another?

    Having a 4.75 gal tank does not make for long-range riding....I just did a 1000 mile r/t from Boulder, CO to Fort Smith, MT and I spent some gas on the trip and stopped often for gas....

    Gracias

    Sergio

    #79
  20. sergiophoto

    sergiophoto travelingphotog

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Hola,

    I may not be in La Paz right now, and if I was I would take care of you. But my close friend, business partner and great mechanic, fully bi-lingual and a "McGiver from Bolivia" is Oscar Ebert and he can certainly help you out, share info, make suggestions and pretty much do anything. Feel free to call on him at these numbers and e-mail addresses. Oscar Ebert <eberttours@gmail.com>, cel: 762-00-166

    You can also get in touch with my other close amigo Ernesto Rosell who is fully bi-lingual and can make anything happen and he's connected at all levels of the Bolivian society! Ernesto Rossell Arteaga <chestex1076@hotmail.com> Cel: 591-701-778-92.

    And if you need a safe, secure and welcoming place to land, go to Hotel Oberland in the Valley of the Moon (Valle de La Luna) in La Paz and ask for Walter Schmid <walter@h-oberland.com>. He gets LOTS of overlanders at his place and has plenty of secure parking, awesome restaurant, pool, wi-fi, etc., etc. and very reasonably priced.

    Do you like your Suzuki better than the BMW? If so, please give pros and cons. Thanks in advance.

    In any case, who knows, we may run into each other on the road sometime next year.

    Saludos

    Sergio

    #80