Trails of South America (PtI)... a photo journal

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by JediMaster, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    That's some reading you've done there! (approx 200k words I think!) Thanks for taking the time to do so. Having read the whole thing you must've enjoyed it...nice one ! :thumb
    It usually takes me a week or more to prepare a chapter so you're feedback is much appreciated.

    Adam
  2. bergsteigen

    bergsteigen One continent at a time.

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    Good update on your latest chapter. Sounds like a really good time was had by all. Look forward to reading more of your adventures.
  3. nomadicbear

    nomadicbear Vagabond

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    I just wanted to say after keeping up with the Ride Report for the last few weeks that its GREAT ! I started Your Blog last Wednesday and have just finished reading the whole thing and going through the PhotographyWOW its some of the Best I have seen here. I just couldn't leave my PC, its a Hell of a Blog!

    THANKS for the Ride. :ricky

  4. pfdavidz

    pfdavidz Been here awhile

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    SWEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTT:clap
  5. Animo

    Animo Been n00b awhile

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    :bow Unbeliveable!
  6. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    A day and two nights in town passed by in a blur of writing, downloading SD/CF cards and burning DVD’s in the internet café and I was soon back on the road. Destination – Cusco and Machu Picchu.
    It was brand new tarmac that led the way out of Ayacucho but it wasn’t long before I was past the road gang responsible for the re-surfacing and back onto dirt.

    Despite being a dirt road it was obviously a major route and there were plenty of trucks, buses and mini-vans kicking up the dust which meant constantly stopping to clean my visor. As a result of all the dust I didn't take many photos until late afternoon.
    I passed through Andahuaylas mid-afternoon and rode out to Laguna de Pachuca in search of a place to camp. Unsurprisingly the lakeshore was either inhabited or farmed and so when I spotted a sign for ‘Sondor Ruinas’ I followed it with interest. East of the lake on a ridge overlooking two valleys I came to Sondor Inca ruins. It seems little is really known about the site but it is presumed to be of great religious significance and a place were human sacrifices were carried out. The only other person there was the guardian who charged me 2 soles (80c/50p) and said camping was no problem. As it got dark so the guardian left leaving me to share the site with a full moon.

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    I'd passed a bush fire en-route to Sondor and as I looked back towards Laguna de Pachuca the smoke began to resemble a nuclear mushroom cloud (well that what it reminded me of!)

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    At 3400m it got chilly pretty quickly after the sunset and I was soon in my tent...

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    When its dark and cold early I rely on my laptop for entertainment and set-up my 'home cinema' - laptop on my camp stool. In this picture I'm watching the interview with ADV inmate LORDMACIEK that accompanies the DVD MotoSiberia that accompanies the RR 3 x KTM Go East. Inspirational!

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    The next morning I got up at 0600, made coffee and walked to the top of the conical mound to watch sunrise. For about 20mins before the sun came up I had a clear view of the 6000m snowcapped peaks of the Cordillera Vilcabamba some 60km away to the north east. The clouds rose as quickly as the sun and soon the peaks were gone, replaced by a stunning golden light that set my surroundings ablaze.

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    Instead of returning to Andahuaylas and the main road to Abancay I followed a little dirt road that ran behind the ruins to join a bigger dirt road and 105km later intersected with the main Nazca – Cusco road south of Abancay. I’d forgotten just how good the tarmac road from Nazca to Cusco is – surely amongst the worlds’ best motorcycling roads.


    Next up...the ride to Machu Picchu...
    KneeDrachen likes this.
  7. bergsteigen

    bergsteigen One continent at a time.

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    Nice... Love the "entertainment center".
  8. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    Whoo Hoo!!! Another full reader!!!! Glad you enjoyed it...makes the effort worthwhile!

    Thanks for posting :thumb

    Adam
  9. crashmaster

    crashmaster ow, my balls!

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  10. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    From Cusco I rode via Santa Marta to Santa Teresa; as close as you can get to Machu Picchu and have somewhere safe to store your bike.
    I'm sure the 'How to get to Machu Picchu as cheaply as possible' has been posted here before so I won't do so again unless anybody asks.

    I'll pick up the story on the road between Santa Marta and Santa Teresa.

    This is the road through the canyon between the two villages...

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    Rather than return to Cusco the way I came, I decided to turn left at Santa Marta and follow the valley through Quillabamba, Quellouno to Calca.
    For several hours I thought I'd made a mistake. There was far more traffic on the road than I'd anticipated making the dust a real problem. In some sections I couldn't see anything and rode blindly in the hope of not hitting anything.
    Things improved somewhat beyond Quellouno and by the time I approached Lares in the late afternoon the going was good.

    As a result of all the dust my camera stayed in its bag until I began climbing the pass SE of Lares...

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    Once over the pass I needed to find a place to camp. There was nowhere to 'hide' my tent so I rode to where I decided no headlights would reach me after dark and cooked supper. Once it was dark I pitched my tent.
    It was such a great spot that I was in no hurry to get away the next morning and so I wandered around taking photos and drinking coffee.

    Messing with my camera remote...

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    Around camp...


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    Riding away from camp...


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    When I got up at 0600 I was surprised by the amount of traffic using the road. It was a beautiful site and I wasn’t in any hurry so I wandered around taking photo’s and had two coffee’s before finally setting off on a strangely empty road. 6km later I found out why. It was only open 1830-0700 and was closed throughout the day for resurfacing. Bugger!


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    I spent ½hr or so chatting with the security guy after which he got on his radio and obtained permission for me to pass through – slowly. Top bloke! :thumb


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    I didn't stop in Cusco...
    KneeDrachen likes this.
  11. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

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    Just finished reading the latest bit, just amazing. I think it will take years covering just some of the best riding in SA. I'm going to need more time and a hellulva lot more money:deal

    Great stuff.

    btw I'm thinking I will be back down South before Nov starts if I'm lucky.
    Hope to see you around again Amigo:freaky
  12. SR

    SR Long timer

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    Oh my Gawd! This RR has awesome photos. Nice Work! Thanks

    SR
  13. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    Well unbelievably I've managed to do just that! Chapter 27 is online!

    So what does Chapter 27 have in store? Well, the full story of 3193km of dirt roads across the Peruvian Andes Its the 'full' version of what's here with a combination of the same and different photos

    Chapter 27 - "Here comes the sun do do do do..."

    Enjoy!

    Adam
  14. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

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    Hola Adam! I'm really enjoying reading chapter 27 on your blog! outstanding stuff! :clap

    I just finished the 'Lima' section and you nailed it on the head amigo: Lima SUCKS! I was born in Lima but my family moved to the north (Trujillo/Huanchaco) when I was little but when I finished high school I moved to Lima to go to school there. boy was it ugly! I only lasted there 4 years and moved to Canada to finish school up here and never looked back since then :lol3:lol3 ... well ... Naomi and I *had to* also go through Lima when both our F8GS engines blew up and had to get them fixed. And we hated Lima too :puke2 No doubt Peru offers an amazing riding experience away from the coast.

    I was reading about the van than almost killed you coming down from La Oroya and though 'F&^%inf crazy peruvian drivers' ... just to keep reading and find out that the van had UK license plates ... unbelievable! what an irony.

    Anyways hermano. I have read MANY (really... many) RR's from riders going through Peru and you followed the most interesting and adventurous route I've ever seen... by far the best :bow:bow:bow And to top that your photos are top notch :nod. Absolutely fantastic. Thanks for sharing and keep the updates coming!

    Cheers,
    Alberto.
  15. bergsteigen

    bergsteigen One continent at a time.

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    RE: Chapter 27. Good read and even better fodder for my own plans. Keep up the good work as I'm enjoying the pictures and writing.
  16. dvmweb

    dvmweb Adventurer

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    Well done. Thank you for sharing. These trips are my favorite reading. Great photography. You can't take too many pictures.
    Walt
    Michigan
  17. WIBO

    WIBO Will it buff out?

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    super pics....
    :clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap
  18. Gbob

    Gbob Gone fishin

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    Its taken me awhile.....but I have finally gotten through your adventure to date!:thumbup Fantastic report, fantastic photography.:clap Thanks for taking the time to share it with the rest of us. I look forward to the next round. Gotta go work on my bike:norton
  19. AspentureRider

    AspentureRider Rube

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    Adam, you are a great storyteller and writer, and a hell of a photographer... keep it up!
  20. _cy_

    _cy_ Long timer

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    wonderful photos!!!

    thanks for sharing...