Some comments and questions regarding dealing with the high-pressure side of Tubeliss out in the boonies, away from the compressors and other kit one can't (or should not) be hauling on the bike. Maybe I'm looking to buy a do-all CO2 inflator with 5 to 120 psi gauge, on/off/metering valve, and quick pop-off Schrader adapter? ...Or any other Tubliss support items that help deal with what-if problems while keeping kit taken on the bike to a minimum? I've gone Tubliss on my `19 Beta 390 RR-S. I retained the Michelin front tire and fit a Kenda Equilibrium rear tire: I wanted from Tubliss better traction and ground compliance feel from running the outer at low pressure. This was achieved, and my experience mounting Tubliss front and rear has me convinced this is a really great system! For one,t inice how the inner bladder forces the bead onto the rim. I desire to go remote places and NOT have to carry the usual heavy and bulky just-in-case kit for tube-type tires. I have never burdened any fellow riders with equipment failure, and Tubliss is not something I have lived with yet. My stuff is very well set up and maintained. I think things through before trips and rides. This post has come about because I hit a mental snags regarding the high-pressure inner bladder. Would I have to top off the bladder on say a 5-day BDR ride? Or do I just start out at 110 or even 120 psi and forget about it? I looked for a published decline curve of pressure versus time for the high pressure bladder, but could not find one. NuTech says 100 psi minimum is required, and to top off the bladder to 110 psi before rides. There is no statement about minimum working pressure. I have read one rider says he got by fine at 70 psi. Others say 80-90 psi is fine. But no one really talks about the conditions under which under-pressure would be fine. I am running Quadboss sealer in the outer, but no sealer in the high-pressure inner. Is there some sealer that is more ideal to slow the natural leak rate of the inner? Maybe the Quadboss would be fine. I just don't know. What has been the experience of fellow Tubliss users regarding leak-down rate? That can be hard to 'gauge' of course because like the Heisenburg Uncertainty principle, mere observation changes what is observed. Checking pressure reduces pressure! I did not yet do a test with gauge left on for, say, a week, to make my own graph. The natural leak-down rate may not be linear, but rather would slow down as pressure drops. I could do that before sealer and after. One solution - one might assume - is just hook up to a CO2 cartridge and let it rip. But it might do just that - rip! The equilibrium pressure of CO2 is well over 300 psi! And thread-on fittings like I have are no bueno as much pressure is lost backing the threads off. This is my current setup with 25g cartridge while I was testing equilibrium pressure. I just cracked open slightly the valve and pressure shot up to over 200 psi! I almost ruined the gauge.... In my shop I just shut my compressor off at 110 psi and fill the bladders. I also have this bicycle pump I can use and take in the truck. That stuff on the end is because my filler tip broke and so did the gauge. Looking forward to your feedback, fellow inmates!