Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by motobene, May 27, 2019.
Wish this system was road capable.
Been using Tubliss on my 530 EXC and now 501FE for many years now. Tire paste on the beads during install is hugely helpful for seating. The high pressure side has been bulletproof and I think I had one flat to the outer chamber a while back that I got lucky enough to find the hole and I plugged it and filled with a C02. Once I balanced the wheels with No Mars I got even more happy with that set up.
Never had a problem running 75 mph at high teens PSI with my FE501 on the pavement. Ran a good 100 miles at this pace,, zero issue.
FE501 with a GT216AA fatty likes 8 psi F and with a Micheline Desert 2-4 psi B.
Road capable, or road legal?
Mechanically there should be no reason they wont run on the road. I would think without a tube that they might even be better. Seems like a liability waiver issue more than anything.
Any reports of folks running them on road? Positive or negative?
I have only been using Tubliss since Jan but I am very impressed not only by the traction but also by the suspension improvements.
I use this Micro Slime gage for checking both low and high pressure. It's good for 150 psi and only looses about 1/2 psi when checking the high pressure side.
I use a bicycle floor pump for filling the high pressure side. Get one that is designed for Presta and Schrader valves. These pumps will easily pump to 120 psi and removing the fill valve results in only a small pressure loss.
For the trail I carry a 2 stage bicycle pump
Primarily this is for adding air to the low pressure side for long highway sections.
12-15 psi works for me.
I also carry sticky string for a low pressure flat.
I'm currently carrying a 21" inner tube for a high pressure flat however I'm debating this.
While I think I could replace the high pressure bladder in the field I'm not confident I could achieve the seal on the bead without soapy water or Armor All.
we think alike (my slime gauge has had some use) but I use the Motopumps Airshot for tire pressure increases during rides to contend with pavement and for the inner high-pressure psi checks. Fill to 120 psi and remove..
Work fine for me, and the posts at the top of this page, and all the posts I have seen about it, after watching for years.
The only issue might be if you take advantage of their ability to be ridden offroad at single-digit PSI and then hop on the road and go a high speed without airing up. So, air up. 20 is fine on a lightweight dualsport, although I prefer 25 for street if I am at home with the compressor handy. Even 15 would probably be OK, I just prefer the responsiveness of a firmer tire onroad.
I have been running the Tubliss front and back on my 2019 500 exc for a couple of years, Quite a few kms (3-4000) on the road, sealed and gravel.
no dramas, just air up the outer chamber to about 20 psi, give or take.
Even used some road type tires for a long weekend tar ride.
I need to check into the Moto Pump. It would be more compact than the floor pump that takes up space in my truck.
Also the 2 stage bike pump will only get to about 80psi.
Do you carry anything for repair of the high pressure bladder should you have a failure?
see this post
Yes I have done a field repair of the high pressure bladder (like a road bicycle tube) inside the red liner. Just like patching a regular motorcycle tube - used a couple irons and a bicycle patch kit. Having to remove the red liner makes it a little harder but not much.
I used a pump just like the one pictured a few posts above to fill it to a little over 100 PSI.
It worked, although the pump burned out soon after.
Checked out the Neely kit's 'how it works' page:
To me, just like any tubeless plug except the instruction to 'turn the insertion tool 1-1/2 turns.' The big benefit I see to this kit is compactness. Their small diameter, stringy looking (and long) plugs make it possible to insert plugs - in a motorcycle carcass I assume without much force - with a small screwdriver-like insertion tool that fits in the plastic tube. Apparently no rasping tool is needed to chase and enlarge a hole to prep for installing the more typical large diameter and shorter plugs.
On the ranch especially, I've inserted many many of the larger diameter plugs into thicker tire carcasses. I've broken many a plastic T-handle rasping tool and insertion tool. I found it helps plugs insertion to slather plugs with patch cement. When the plastic handles break I make more robust tools by brazing the stems to steel tubing to restore the T.
Moto tires are thinner than truck and auto tires, so the Neely kit would be a great compact solution for that venue. Thanks for turning us on again to the kit. Pricey, but apparently high quality.
I'd do it, if I had to, and when a tube puncture is in the body.
So far all the high-pressure Tubliss tube failures I assume are from ham fisted installs like stem cocking that compromise the intersection of the stem and tube body. The stem-tube interface seems the repeat weak point. I've even though it might be a good idea to enlarge the small rim hole slightly, as I find it difficult to precisely center the stem in the small hole to relive it of any side loading.
However... I've a friend who installed Tubliss on his WR450F. My mouth dropped agape when I saw the front high high pressure tube stem cocked full over in the hole, with tension on the tube. We've had a bet going a while that his sloppy install would fail - far from home base of course - but so far it hasn't . He chides me with "Look, it hasn't failed yet! Pay up!"
But I haven't because assumptions die hard. Maybe I'm just wrong? Maybe the ones that have failed were due to some small hidden manufacturing flaw that eventually works all the way through? That might better explain the inner tube going flat while the bike sits in the garage or after a rider stops after a long hard run? I - we - like to blame these odd failures on ham fisted or wonky-stem installs, but what do we really know?
I have a super version of shoe goo-type adhesive. Expensive industrial stuff not sold to the general public. I wonder if that stuff could repair a torn tub at the stem? Tubliss installs tend to hurt my fingers, especially on the front, so I've not been motivated to try that repair. That particular adhesive is not practical as a field repair because of the day or so cure time.
Also I don't think there is a total stem replacement repair kit that I'd trust on the small diameter, high pressure tube. Those kits work on large diameter, low pressure tubes such as for tractors. When I have had a tube failures I just buy another one.
Had that happen on the first pump I purchased but was replaced free of charge with an updated version.
Currently this pump is being replaced by an entirely new product from the same supplier.
This is the one I recommend. Not sure where you got your info or which source you used
Get it direct from the source