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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by n16ht5, Oct 5, 2012.
Thanks Hopefully it will work on my DS and rally training rides
A recent visit to Baja brought up the question of what it takes to repair Tubliss on the trail.
Here are my notes: http://bit.ly/2DMrvos
What am I forgetting?
And for your entertainment, the blessedly flat-less rides: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTICZYEVIZLHZFXjr7XmnC2-JCOLmyP-J
The other bikes were running UHD tubes and carried spares and tools.
Seems to cover it pretty well. I travel light: CO/2 inflator, tire plug kit.. and hand pump capable of 120PSI. I'm running some pretty stiff tires, in the unlikely event the main bladder blows out I'm riding it out.
Just got back from 10 days and 1800 miles of baja.
Rear tubliss on day 2 low pressure chamber refused to hold air.
Had to replace with on trail with tube.
That' the 3rd time I have had a trail problem with tubliss and need a real tube.
3 strikes and your out ! !
No more tubliss for me ... going back to tubes.
What tire? What rim? What PSI was in the high pressure bladder? Were you running any sealant? Details would be nice.
Front or back tire?
Tire .... maxis desert IT
Rim ... stock 14 ktm 350 six days
High pressure ... 105 psi
Sealant .... stans
Would also note that my front low pressure chamber was also a problem .... had to add air every day sometimes multiple times in a day
Front tire was a Moto IT
Rim ... 14 ktm 350 stock
High pressure 105 psi
Details are important....any other ?
fwiw, i'm on my fourth season with the same tubliss kit on my woods bike.
haven't had to replace anything on it and hasn't failed me yet.
should also add that i believe that tube-tires will leak air where tubless tires will not (as fast).
something to do with the inner carcass of the tube-tire allows air to seep through the pores in the rubber, especially with tires that have high natural rubber content. The tubless tires have an additional coating on the inside that seals the inside of the tire better.
some tube-tires, like the pirelli mt-16, will actually delaminate on the inside and you'll see the cords all along the inner sidewall. they aren't designed to run at pressures down to 6psi and lower.
Is the rear rim width within the 'approved' width for tubliss?
Was the tire installed new with tubliss?
I find it interesting that stans sealant wasn't keeping the air in, where did it leak from?
Interesting data, thanks for sharing.
We are putting very different demands on Tubliss so I wonder if that can explain different results.
Today I replaced my TR011R trials rear. Even with 15 "fast" Baja rides, this tire had 1564 miles and 133 hrs in 7 mos. The tread was quite worn out and it had one plug in it.
There was a good 12 oz of HTS (homemade Stans) in it. Last one lasted almost exactly the same miles and hours.
That works out to 11 miles per hour. I ride 12 inch singletrack 90% of hours ridden. Yes, I occasionally hit 55 on pavement but it is rare and brief.
Typically I put 5 lbs in the bladders each morning and either add or release a couple pounds to stay at 6 psi in the tires.
I rode a new KTM 500 6 days for a few miles in Baja. I would speculate that bikes and riding like yours put huge torques and heating effects into the system that my little CRF230F does not.
For me a great day is 25 miles in 4 hrs and my armor is soaked with sweat. That means I have spent most of the time creeping along tight stuff at 3 mph. Tubliss seems to do well for this kind of riding.
Or an old man on a XRL (me ;-). I ride 99% off road, and typically average about 20-30mph.. 6psi front and rear. So far tubliss has performed well for my riding.
Rear rim with ... I have no idea ... factory ktm rim.
Yes it was a brand new tire front and rear
Have the tubliss in my husky te300 for 2 years. Not a single problem. I ride my bike 2-3 times per week at least. Really really low psi. Doing mostly really ruff technical stuff.
How old were the bladders? I have found I need to chang the bladder every once and a while.
The inner bladder held air just fine
Sorry, I misread your first post. That is odd that Stan’s did not fix the problem or you did not see a large hole in the tire.
I have a Shinko 546F I installed (new of course) with front Tubliss using Armor All for the liner then soapy water for the tire. I struggled mightily getting the tire on the rim, as I'm the world's worst tire changer. I'm wondering if I tore the bead because the tire has a leak. It is always flat when I check it for a ride. This weekend I rode both days and it went from 9.5 psi to 5.5 psi in 24 hours. There's no way that's just rubber permeability.
I had a similar result on my first installation. I pulled the wheel, aired down both high and low, did the bounce and rotate to re-seat, then reinflated. After that the leak was diminished to almost zero, but I wanted zero. Last step was Slime, did the air down and back thing - it's been great for a year since.
Stock rims have 2.15" rim width. Tubliss also works just fine with a 2.50'' rim width.
Why 6psi up front? I've tried low pressure in my Starcross 5 Hard front tires (beefy stiff carcass) and it feels mushy/rolly in corners