I guess it was the first gen. it was red.It had to be something on the wheel I thought I had it taped up good.
Slime/Stans is necessary IMO. The first gen TUbliss is red/black, while second gen is red/orange. Taping up the spokes well is very important. <iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/zxsuY0qVL2Q?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey all I have been running the system for 3 seasons now. I had one complete failure, picked up a 6 + inch nail - spike near a historic mine. Spike went right pass red shield into the inner tube ! My normal run is 30+ miles of canyon carving slab to the dirt.....air down....60-100 miles dirt....30 miles canyon carving home. I live in Denver, run 30 psi slab, 8-12 dirt, 18-22 dirt bike loaded for overnight.....bike KTM 530. I find that small bottle of stan's in the low pressure chamber really helps out with air lose in that chamber, a plug and a second shot of stan's, and a flat is fixed. Stan's does not make a mess. I run DOT knobbies, have had no issue running 70+mph on slab for 40+miles with the system. I highly recommend the system scott
Been running Tubliss all year on both my bikes (enduro and rally/rough tourer). Had it in my 450 KTM since mid-year. Ran training, the 200km Amageza rally (without spare tube on bike) and then a 3000km rough touring trip in some of the most remote and inhospitable desert areas of South Africa without a moment's issue. And that last trip included 1000km home at highway speeds on dirt and tar. I won't use anything else.
Just FYI: incase you like to watch tech crossover like I do. Mountain bikes have seen tremendous gains in the past few years owing a lot to moto technology that has crossed over to bikes with pedals. As the tech gets more refined (and lighter) it gets stuck on an MTB. Just look at suspension, triple crowns, wider bars, tubeless tires, disc drakes, wider bars and thru axles just to name a few. Anyway due out this spring is ProCore from Schwalbe, a euro tire manufacturer. It IS Tubliss for MTBs and I can't friggin wait! I run low pressure tubeless with copious amounts of Stan's and have mostly good luck but do get pinches and sidewall damage, the ProCore should completely eliminate this. Psyched! Link: http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/4590 Now only if Tubliss would make a 17" for my G650, or I guess I could talk to Woody about an 18"...
I sprung for a pair based on all the sucesses and positive vibes expressed on this thread. I've only had one ride with them so not much to report, but I was happy to see that neither the high pressure core tube nor the knobbies lost any appreciable pressure in the couple weeks since I installed them. Looking forward to a fun season with them, and hopefully, no problems! Thanks OP and subsequent posters for all the great info!
It really is up to you, and you should consider the terrain you ride in. I went without sealant the first few years, and then decided to add sealant. Make sure you use a sealant designed for tires - not tubes. I first bought some Stans, but it seemed too thin for a motorcycle application, and I was afraid it would dry out too quickly. I started using Quad Boss sealant which is much thicker and designed specifically for dirt bikes and ATVs. So far it hasn't dried out and seems to last.
Pure air. I'm not worried about losing the tire air so much, in a mishap; I can work around that. Losing the inner high-pressure bladder, on the other hand, could be a bigger issue. From what I'm reading, folks are putting those sealers in the tire itself, not the inner bladder, so I opted to start out without any and see how it goes. Hope to find out! I'll report any developments.
I used Quad Boss QUAD (not dirt bike) sealant as it was suggested by a poster in this thread. I sucked it up into a vet syringe and injected into the low pressure valve stem. It would clog/seal the syringe so I thinned it a little with antifreeze . I painted it onto the side walls of the RED inner tire thing, per TUbliss instructions. I used it because, unlike slime, Quad Boss is water cleanup. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=quadboss+tire+sealant 2 rides so far,
Thanks guys! Sounds like everyone's pretty much having success lots of different ways. Thanks Pete! I already have plenty of slime so that's what I'll do.
Just another data point here. I have Tubliss on 2 bikes. The 200exc has maybe 2-300 hours on the same Tubliss F/R and I've had no problems. The other one is a 525 that I just took to Baja & rode all over, including some 50+ mile 60+mph highway sections. Zero problems. The other guys were really skeptical, but when they were anxiously pulling cactus thorns from their tires to avoid puncturing their UHD tubes, I just sat by & watched. I use ~4oz of regular Slime per wheel in the outer chamber. Lots of Lemon-Sol furniture polish for mounting works well. I honestly can't see why anyone would avoid Tubliss.
I have been running the Stans sealant. I like it because sometimes a tire will leak a little around the bead. With the stans, my tires don't loose any air, even over the course of a couple weeks. I have had 1 flat in the last few years, a tire plug took care of the hole and I rode the tire a few more times.
Sounds like the Tubliss has worked well for you. But when using the Tubliss system, the tire doesn't seal at the bead. I'm not saying it can't leak at the seal on the inside, but there's no bead seal to worry about.
There is still a bead seal, just not on the same side of the bead as usual. I don't know where the air was coming from but I was getting bubbles between the tire and rim at the bead area. Tubliss recommends a against it but I swap tires a lot. I have winter studded tires that come off in the spring. Some beads may have nicks from tire levers.
Technically, that's not the "bead", but semantics … anyway, yeah, anything that deforms the inside of the tire behind the bead adds to leak propensity with Tubliss. While one would have to get pretty animated to damage the inside of the tire with irons, no doubt it's possible. However, it would seem more likely that the inside be left deformed from a previous mount by rim locks. The air leaks past the barrier formed by the Tubliss outer shell and the inside surface of the tire just behind the bead, from inside the tire chamber to the atmosphere via around the bead/rim mating surface. That's awesome if Stans seals that magnitude of aperture - I will look to get some on hand because it looks like I may need some at some point. Thanks!
