So we got through the Bulgarian/Turkish border pretty quickly hoping that the speeding ticket Luke got in June didn't cause problems.... Made some friends on Moto-Park.com (a Turkish rider forum) and Volkan opened his home to us to stay our first night in Turkey. His wife made us an amazing meal of eggplant and beef in a delicious sauce. And he's got a new baby girl who didn't like the heat as much as we didn't So after a sweat drenched night on the Asian side near the water we set off in the early morning Oh but WAIT, I forgot the 'white knuckle ride' part... Luke's got the GPS, I don't. Heck I don't even have a reliable map of Istanbul and frankly it was after many emails that he convinced me to ride through it at all. Remember I was here a year ago and saw how these people drive. Now this not a driver bashing post, rather I'm impressed with how these people can drive bumper to bumper at 100km+ Se we stopped about 50km from Istanbul to rest and since I was ready to go before Luke and he likes to ride faster than me he suggested I take off and he would catch up. 10km passed, no Luke another 10km, still no Luke slowed down to 80km (now 40KM from Istanbul and getting nervous) still no Luke stopped on the side of the freeway, waited while draining the battery (left the lights on because now it's dark) still no Luke. Another 10KM, no Luke. Now I'm freaking out. No Luke. No GPS. Alone on the road to death. Stopped again, got him on the cell and just then a cop car with the lights flashing pulls up, then another, then a 3rd and finally #4. None of them speak English. I'm about 10KM before the toll plaza, I tell Luke I'll wait for him there. Cops don't like that, again a couple cars trying to get me to go through and wait on the other side, just then Luke pulls up behind me. I guess I went faster than he gave me credit, he was convinced he passed me. Get's better! Pay the toll, hit reserve. Told Luke. OK Another 10KM, still not exiting the freeway for gas, remind Luke, reserve. OK Run out of gas at a major fork in the road and he's not looking behind to see me pull over...I'm starting to panic, then he sees me and turns right and a car nearly made him a hood ornament. So there we are on the side of the road with a glass jar and a rubber tube trying to get gas from his bike to mine. Well it all ended OK, we finally made it to Volkan's house before midnight, or heck it might have been after. Welcome to Turkey. 2 more weeks of touring. Ride report coming soon so stay tuned.