TWO BOB'S Nova Scotia 2015 - NYC to Cape Breton via ferry?

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by DYNOBOB, Dec 19, 2015.

  1. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    With 10 ferry crossings on this trip it could have felt like it. In reality, our route took in some of the best roads and scenery the Northeast has to offer. Covering 4000 miles over 18 days, we traveled from Cincinnati to Lower Manhattan - north to Maine - took overnight ferry to Nova Scotia - Cape Breton Island - Prince Edward Island - Grand Manan Island - Bar Harbor, Maine - across NH/VT to the Adirondacks - and back to Cincinnati.

    The Route
    [​IMG]


    While this was a street ride, we did get dirty a few times... :-)

    Meat Cove
    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    PEI
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hole in the Wall, Manan Island
    [​IMG]

    Mt Washington
    [​IMG]


    As usual, I'll start things off with some highlights.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #1
    knight, cesarb, ArdenLoneWolf and 5 others like this.
  2. PaulyD

    PaulyD Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    169
    Beautiful! I took a trip from VT to P.E.I. last year, absolutely beautiful country out there
    #2
    DYNOBOB likes this.
  3. BobPS

    BobPS Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    599
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Great scenery. Can't wait to read the ride report.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #3
  4. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    The Crew
    [​IMG]


    Jim and Vicky - I mentioned in our Northern Rockies 2013 ride report that our only regret was that Vicki left her new CanAm at home. This time she was looking forward to "puttin' it in the wind" on its first long trip. She did great, even in the cut and thrust Jersey City traffic where it's every person for themselves! "Eye of the tiger" crossed my mind several times... Jim is on the Gdub with the flapping front fender :uhoh He also rode HOTW (ForeverWest) with me last year on the dual-sports.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Dad (Bob Sr) - Four months removed from knee replacement, riding his FJR was not an option. A CanAm touring rig is in the future, but even if he'd had it, his range of motion/pain levels wouldn't have allowed a 4000mi trip. So, he followed along in the jeep, which was nice because I didn't have to pull a trailer for luggage. As I write this 6 months later he has improved a lot, hopefully we have some more adventures before he quits two-wheels.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Wynette and I (Bob Jr) are two-up on the trusty Goldwing. Thanks to Wynette we have some great pics captured on the move from the back seat. In a pinch she can give me a break from driving (as long as it's the middle of Wyoming)...and she sometimes rides dual-sport with me.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Trip Plan

    The main focus of this trip was Maine, PEI, and Nova Scotia. Once I saw the route on the map, I realized we could add a day in Lower Manhattan and see the 911 Memorial and Statue of Liberty (none of us had been to NYC) for the cost of one nights hotel room - a no brainer. The overnight ferry from Portland, Maine to Yarmouth is relatively expensive but cuts off 2+ days of duplicate travel and the associated expense, so you probably break even and get two more days for other stuff.


    I enjoy the challenge of planning these big trips and have been accumulating info for two years for this ride. Like many of us, my trip planning usually starts when I read a ride report that gets my attention. I start a Garmin file and mark waypoints of outstanding places as I comb thru every RR I can find and ask for advise on regional forums. Once I have a handle on the "must sees" I start to work the route puzzle, figuring out the daily segments that keep it enjoyable and land us at cool spots overnight. I know some prefer to "wing it" on trips and I've done that too, but on long trips with multiple couples it's a lot less stressful to know you have a reservation at your preferred location waiting for you at the end of the day. Anyway, Big Thanks! to many on ADV for the advise offered on these two regional threads. .. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/planning-a-trip-to-nova-scotia-pei-etc-advise.1062359/ .. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/advise-for-northeast-trip-plan.1062364/ .. No way could I have put this route together with out the ride reports of others and local knowledge you can tap into on ADV. Hopefully I can "pay if forward" for others contemplating a trip Northeast.


    .
    #4
    ModalGuy and gwhis like this.
  5. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    Day One and Two - Thur July 16/Fri July 17 - Cincinnati to NYC

    Our first day and a half were the necessary evil of transit to the east coast. We left after work on Thurs and knocked out 200 of the 600 miles to NYC. This would get us there in time to spend Fri evening and Sat in the city. That was the plan... and it went perfect until 12 miles from our destination hotel located near the entrance of the Holland Tunnel. I-280 became a parking lot at West Orange, NJ due to a 5 car accident. It was mid-July hot...and after an hour we got off the interstate to use surface streets around the accident. We weren't the only ones with this idea and it was gridlock for a while, eventually we pulled into a gas station to cool off. After a rest we took off - but Jim wasn't moving - dead battery. Jumped him and got back to the highway where traffic was moving nicely until we found the Pulaski Skyway was closed for construction just miles from the hotel. Back to surface streets we go, zooming in/out on gps, and this was the gridlock where Vicky disappeared breifly behind me in a suicide squeeze of two delivery trucks. She emerged unscathed and unfazed - Eye of the tiger!

    Other than the traffic, the Holland Hotel is a perfect spot to stay for this mission. Located in Jersey City (a mile from the World Trade Center), it has a traditional (free) parking lot out back, is three blocks from the PATH subway to the WTC, and best of all has a Sears Auto center a hundred yards away with motorcycle batteries!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    You can see the top of new WTC Tower One in the distance (above the Auto Center sign).
    [​IMG]


    Once settled in, we walked to the Path station and rode our first NYC subway to the Chelsea district for dinner and an evening of exploring. We pretty much felt like "country mice", but with the help of nice locals figured out the subway cards and where to go. Had dinner at Rana's in the Chelsea Market and walked the very cool High Line Park at night. Inspired by the Prominade Plantee in Paris, the High Line is a section of abandoned elevated rail line that's been converted to a unique walking park. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Line_(New_York_City) It was a nice treat to take in the sights and sounds of nighttime NYC.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Tomorrow we visit the WTC and Statue of Liberty..

    .
    #5
  6. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,085
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Wonderful, great photography always a plus, looking forward to seeing the rest of the trip.
    #6
  7. USAIR

    USAIR picking and riding

    Joined:
    May 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,922
    Location:
    Northern Kentucky
    Bob awesome report as always....:clap

    Beautiful photos too A7 seems to do very well.
    Hope you heal up real quick.

    Fred
    #7
  8. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    Day 3 - Sat July 18 - NYC


    Today starts with a short hop on the PATH to the new underground WTC terminal. This was all destroyed when the buildings collapsed. It's obviously a sobering place - but it's also uplifting to see how the country has rebuilt.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Emerging outside, the scale is almost overwhelming. Our first destination is to walk the mile or so along the Hudson to Battery Park and take the Staten Island Ferry past The Statue while the sun is still in the east (on her face). Bummer for pictures, it is overcast until early afternoon. We'll come back to the 911 Memorial this afternoon.

    [​IMG]


    The Hudson is a beehive of activity.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The WWII Monument

    [​IMG]


    Battery Park

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The advice we received from friends/forums said to take the Staten Island Ferry past The Statue instead of the tour ferries that stop at the Statue and Ellis Island. This was perfect for us since we only have one day and the tours are at least a half-day proposition.

    [​IMG]

    Brooklyn Bridge

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Of course the sun came out just as we got off the return ferry from Staten Island.. In hindsight, I wish we'd gotten back on the ferry and done it again to get better pics - instead we wasted 1/2hr watching a street performance that was a big disappointment. Live and learn.

    Now we're heading back to the WTC complex. Some of us walked, some took a reasonable $10 cab ride (Dad's knee).

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    9/11 Memorial. No words suffice. Go there.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Didn't notice plane passing tower until seeing pics on computer.
    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    We decide to take the subway back to the Chelsea District for a late lunch and daytime walk on the High Line.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Called it a night early. We have an 8am departure in the morning to make it to Portland, Maine in time for the overnight ferry to Yarmouth.

    .
    #8
    ModalGuy likes this.
  9. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Thanks Gents!


    Appreciate it Steve! Your advice on getting in/out of NYC was invaluable!


    I'm also amazed by the A7, it's like a magic trick it's so small. The crop of the plane by the tower reveals a lot.

    Any hernia surgery where you need no pain meds was a good surgery!

    .
    #9
  10. steiny

    steiny Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Cincy
    WOW great pics and write up :thumb
    #10
  11. killianm

    killianm Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2012
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    Central PA
    I'm enjoying your RR!! Thanks!!!
    #11
  12. RonkoRider

    RonkoRider Wrong Island, NY Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,830
    Location:
    Middle of Suburban Hell- Long Island, NY
    :lurk
    #12
  13. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    Day 4 - Sunday July 19 - NYC to Portland, Maine - 341 miles

    [​IMG]


    Today's only mission is to make it to our 5:45pm ferry reservations with no breakdowns or incidents. No pressure.. While the ride was nothing remarkable, it was improved with some advice from Steve (Speedo66), a lifelong NYC resident who recently moved to Cinci and found our local dual-sport group. Instead of slogging our way up I-95, he recommended taking the Palisades Pkwy north to the Tappan Zee and then using the Saw Mill River Pkwy to connect to I-84. This was a beautiful Sunday morning ride.

    [​IMG]


    Basically though, today was a bunch of this..

    [​IMG]


    and this..

    [​IMG]


    and finally this.

    [​IMG]


    It was hot and sunny until the last 20 miles. When we got off the bikes it started to drizzle, and the Nor'east fog that would be our travel companion for the next several days rolled in. Good news, we arrive five minutes before they wanted you in line.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    A little info on the ferry.. A 10 hour crossing, it sails from Maine to Yarmouth at night and opposite during the day. When deciding which direction to do our trip loop, it just made sense to go counter clockwise and gain a days travel while we slept. 8am Sunday we were in NYC, 8am Monday we were in Nova Scotia on our bikes. The cost of the ferry is probably a wash when you consider the 2 saved days of backtracking and lodging. And it's a very nice, modern ship.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Tomorrow the good riding starts..


    .
    #13
    ModalGuy likes this.
  14. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    Day 5 - Monday July 20 - Yarmouth to Grand-Pre, NS - 281 miles

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    We were blessed with an uneventful crossing - no seasickness - it rained all night but quit as we rolled off the ship at 8am.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Goodbye boat. First stop is Canadian customs so don't forget your passport.

    [​IMG]


    No time for breakfast on the boat, so nourishment is next order of business. Unfortunately, Yarmouth's electricity was out and we couldn't come up with so much as a cup of coffee. Luckily we had milk/cereal so we improvised .. and did a repair on Jim's fender. :thumb

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Our destination tonight is a small hotel on the shore of the Minas Basin .. home of the worlds most extreme tides! In fact, we're staying near the location of the record 52ft vertical change in tidal height. The high/low tide occurs over 6 hours, so by overnighting at the shore I'm hoping we can observe both.

    [​IMG]


    The port town of Lunenburg is a highlight of Nova Scotia and it's on the way to Peggy's Cove, so that's where we're heading for lunch.

    [​IMG]


    We ride most of the morning in a misty rain, but during a lull we stop and visit Thomas Raddall Park. Neat little place. You walk thru the woods, past the homestead, and emerge on the beach. It's our first view of the northeast Atlantic coastline!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    On to Lunenburg for lunch..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Vicky draws a crowd of the curious whenever we stop.. "You rode here from Ohio?" :-)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Fog is rolling in..

    [​IMG]


    The coastal fog is getting worse so we decide to bag Peggy's Cove and head straight for Grand-Pre and the Minas Basin. Shortens the day by 70 miles - sometimes it good to arrive early and have time to veg...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The Bay of Fundy is a highlight of any trip to the Canadian Maritimes, and I did a lot of research/thinking about where and how to see it. This little mom/pop hotel was the perfect place. A brief explanation of the tides in the Bay of Fundy: Because the bay is basically a huge funnel with the wide end facing the ocean, the Atlantic pours in at high tide and piles higher as it constricts down. The Minas Basin is the skinny end of the funnel, so it sees the biggest swings.

    [​IMG]


    We arrived just before low tide, and I got up at 5:30am to catch high tide. Pretty cool!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Tomorrow we head for Cape Breton Island.

    .
    #14
    USAIR likes this.
  15. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH

    Day 6 - Tues July 21 - Grand-Pre to Louisbourg, Cape Breton Island - 306 miles

    [​IMG]


    Today's route takes us up the coastline of the Minas Basin to Truro, across the Canso Causeway, and along Bras D'Or Lake to arrive at the port town of Louisbourg.

    Bye bye Beach Breeze, let's roll..

    [​IMG]


    Skirting the Minas Basin at low tide.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Truro is at the tip of the Minas Basin, here the Salmon River flows backwards at high tide.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Approaching the Canso Causway. Basically a land bridge that crosses the Straight of Canso, there is a lock that allows ship traffic.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Bras D'Or region.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And finally our B&B overlooking Louisbourg Harbor.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Once settled in, we take a walk to check out the harbor and find some dinner.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Yep, this looks like a good place to end the day..

    [​IMG]


    Tomorrow we check out Louisbourg Fort and head for Ingonish.

    .
    #15
    CanuckCharlie and BobPS like this.
  16. BSTT

    BSTT Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    140
    Location:
    Braunschweig, Germany
    Hi, good job:clap:clap:clap
    Thanks for taking us along.
    Nice pictures and writing.
    I remember the fog:(, we drove from Boston to PEI with the family in2013.

    Ciao Gero
    #16
  17. RedDogAlberta

    RedDogAlberta High Plains Drifter

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    20,491
    Location:
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Outstanding! Very enjoyable.
    #17
  18. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,157
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Happy Holidays everyone!


    Day 7 - Wed July 22 - Louisbourg to Ingonish - 95 or 145 miles depending..

    We've given ourselves short mileage today to accommodate visiting the fort, some lighthouses, and the Bras D'Our lake region. I'd built two possible routes for today depending on time and weather. Unfortunately, our string of cloudy (and occasionally rainy) days is continuing so we ended up skipping the scenic route.

    Fast route vs. scenic route. In good weather the scenic route is a no-brainer, you get to see the lake region and ride more of the Cabot Trail.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]


    The Fortress of Louisbourg is five minutes outside of town. Constructed by the French from 1720-1740, it was twice captured by the British and used as a bargaining chip. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fortress_of_Louisbourg

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Cemetery near the fort..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Louisbourg Lighthouse, site of the first lighthouse in Canada.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louisbourg_Lighthouse .. Man, wish it would have been sunny... :(


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    There were several cool photo opps along the road to the lighthouse. So neatly kept they almost don't look real.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    We were lucky we got the pics we did this morning - it rained most of the rest of the day. Anyway, we opted to take the short route to Ingonish, stopping for lunch at an awesome bakery in Boularderie. :dukegirl

    [​IMG]


    A few miles later we turn onto the famous Cabot Trail...and a little ways up the road at Englishtown was the fourth and strangest ferry crossing of the trip. $7 to literally go 100 yards. I barely had time to get pics. :D

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    So we are officially on the Cabot Trail - no pics though - we're ridin' in the clouds. My impression is we had pretty typical weather for the Canadian Maritimes on this trip. We were blessed numerous times though with the timing of the precip, it never forced us to abandon any of our highlight stops. Anyway, on to Ingonish where we had a condo waiting. Sometimes it's nice to have an afternoon of doing nothing after 1700 miles.

    [​IMG] ... [​IMG]



    Fingers crossed on the weather tomorrow, we plan to camp at Meat Cove.

    .
    #18
  19. crownhorse

    crownhorse Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    239
    Location:
    cabot,ar
    planning to go next summer, looking forward to rest of report
    #19
  20. Littlepeter

    Littlepeter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    351
    Location:
    Cape Breton Island,Nova Scotia, Canada
    Excellent read and beautiful photos. Thanks for sharing.

    Peter
    #20