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Discussion in 'Hard. Core. (1090/1190/1290)' started by wiseblood, Aug 16, 2018.
Yup — that’s what I use.
I replaced all the plugs. Yeah — maybe they could go more, but they’re pretty cheap, and it’s not always easy to diagnose a problem which comes from a failing plug.
Air filter is stock/paper. Recently replaced (mid June). I had a foam pre-filter on my 950. Maybe I’ll look into that.
The pre-filter is not something you want on a Super Duke, it will restrict power. Look into just a replacement filter. I like the Uni-Filter oiled foam. So far it has held up great and has kept my 1090R very spotless. Plenty to choose from.
It was in winter 2016-17 we decided to look at them - maybe out of curiosity. Bikes had about 12 000 and 13 000 kms on them so it was a bit early maybe. But intakes were at 0,10 on both bikes and exhaust valves at 0,15 (2014 orange) and 0,20 (2015 black) so it was proper time to make adjustments. So we aimed at 0,15 intake and 0,30 exhaust clearances - had to get 2 sets of shims, the other goes from 1,85 to 3,2mm in 0,05 steps and the other from 1,875 to 3,175mm in 0,05 steps - they barely were sufficient for 2 bikes (got them from our KTM-dealer: www.pro-x.com). A lot of micrometer measuring... We had new spark plugs but didn't replace them the originals were so good. Cam chain tensioners felt somewhat peculiar in my hands so I ordered and installed new ones - but that was just based on a feeling.
Because I am somewhat clumsy and need plenty of space I removed the radiator, so changed the coolant also - and there is the only thing I remember pondering: the service manual pointed into a wrong screw (p.228), the bleeder one is the other one at the cylinder head side (US models may have a hose on the other that goes into carbon canister). So, I thought that is the reason I had to fill up the coolant 3 times when those bikes were brand new... maybe the factory skipped the bleeding process? Anyhow, properly done there wasn't any need to fill up afterwards.
Now, we have about 23 500kms (22500kms on the other) on our bikes so in a few years coming we have to relearn that process again! I think the first one is always important people say that the changes will be smaller in future.
I somehow remember that wireloom mess on the engine... But take your time!
Oh, yes... I like the Unifilter too - and like to use the Motul air cleaner oil with them - it's sticky as whatever, I am sure it will not go anywhere from that filter any time. Only thing is that it is an impossible task to clean without Motul air filter wash that is designed for the purpose and is some kind of aggressive detergent. So, better use good detergent resistant gloves with the work.
Very good write-up Wiseblod, nice pictures too. Congratulations!
30.000km on my Adv.1190 2013, I wanted to do my valve adjustments myself but I finally went for KTM dealer. The guy told me that 6 were out of specifications, he never saw something like that before. For few seconds, I questioned myself whether he did it correctly. Now, I don't feel any power difference but noise is a for sure different.
Reading your post, I discovered this Initialization Run. Is that something usually done by KTM dealer after valves clearance?
It looks so easy to do. I'm thinking to do or redo this Init Run myself. Any pros or count here? Is this feature available for Adv.1190 too? 1190 owner's Manuel does not mention it.
You left this thread hanging!
I never did balance the TBs. But, I am due to do another valve check right now. I'll check it and let you know what I find!
I'm pretty sure they are electronically balanced. I know on my Previous Tiger 800 they were electronically balanced and there was a procedure to induce the electronic balancing.
I was wondering how your milage turned out. I'm at 20k on my 1190.
Contemplating ordering a shim kit.....
I get frustrated when my fingers don't for working on the motors. Any other parts needed? I'd think the valve cover gasket could be reused? Any other insight going in?
You covered it pretty well in the thread.
Regarding the TBs, be nice to validate what the computer is seeing and doing. Made a tremendous difference on my 990.
I just hit 30k miles. I wouldn’t order a whole shim kit. Your local Hardley dealer probably stocks the shims you need. I was able to walk right in and get just exactly what I needed for the adjustment.
the local Hardley Ferguson probably having the shim is why I want to have on hand. I want to stay in motion on the task, pull, measure, reinstall.
What else you got to add?
Thanks for the input so far
A .8mm tap works perfect for a crank locking pin. VC gaskets are good to go. You’ll need some goop for the cam to vc gasket corners. Buy the hot cams kit. I tried the hd bs and no body had a shim for a v rod. Meh. It’s worth the cash for the shim kit.
So I'm going to be tackling this in January on my 1290SA. Thanks for posting the rundown!
The only thing I'm curious about is if I should replace the cam chain tensioners while I'm in there. I know a lot of people recommended manual tensioners for the 1190R, but if possible I'd like to stick with the OEM hydraulic tensioners. Should these be considered "wear items" and be replaced during valve adjustment? I'm at ~38k miles if that makes any difference, the valves were in spec at the 18k mile interval so nothing was replaced then.
Im with you on keeping hydraulic tensioners, but I might look into the "Dirt Tricks" replacements, still hydraulic but with a failsafe ratchet mechanism. Ive heard good things.
I'll be interested to see what you go with when you tear into it in Jan. Will be tackling my own valve inspection once it warms up enough in the garage this spring.
Also, if the KTM special tool is not BO at the dealer, it's not expensive.
So noted, thanks
I think I've read where removing the spark plugs requires a special super thin socket, is that the case? What about removing the plug Caps from Wells..... Anything note worthy there?
I found that the deep socket from Home Depot (14mm?) worked well.
My other expensive ones were too fat.
The TB are flow matched/balanced at the factory when assembled and the adjuster is painted. Then installed onto the engine where the ecm and oh2 sensors take care of any imbalance in exhaust gasses.