Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by sailah, May 4, 2006.
I don't pick up the 990 until Thursday and I'm already stressed out!:eek1
Can you believe we just finished my valves and the idiot mechanic that opened my top end last put the exhaust cam in place of the intake and vice versa ... always thought my bike was a bit noisy...
Also, he over-torqued one of the bolts holding the bridge down and we think this caused the small hairline crack that is going from the bolt hole down into the cam journal.
If this is the cause of the crack it happened about 18,000km ago. I'm in negotiations with KTM as we speak.
What you are looking at is the L intake journal. You can see the crack as a diagonal line going down to the left. The journal surface looks convex in the picture, this is because it was taken through a magnifying glass with a camera phone! (all we had at the time). You can just feel the crack with your finger nail.
As I said I am in negotiations with KTM, the shop that did the work had an authorized mechanic, but clearly he is an idiot and must have been sleeping. When we removed the bolts, this one was much stiffer than all the rest.
I got the front all buttoned up last night and have the rear opened up, ready for gap measurements and shim swapping this afternoon. Then it's just a matter of cleaning everything up as it all goes back together.
Thanks to everybody who responded to PMs and tried to help, especially Pyndon, who spent quite a bit of time helping me out.
This place rules!
That noise would be the valves hitting the piston then!!
It's a good idea to get into the habit of turning over the engine a couple of times by hand before hitting the starter button.
The markings on the cams aren't that obvious, but they're there. On one cylinder it's marked as an x on the outside of the sprocket, on the other it's a dot on the inside. If you're at TDC on compression then you'll see either the dot's or x's in line - sorry can't remember which way round they are.
You want to look from the left (clutch lever) side of the bike for both cylinders. For the front cylinder the mark will be on the outside of the cam gear, matched against the front edge of the cylinder deck, nearest you. For the rear cylinder the mark will be on the inside of the cam gear, matched against the rear edge of the cylinder deck, across the cylinder from you.
Just thought I'd mention a surefire way of getting TDC spot on.
First, just approximate TDC by placing a pencil/chopstick or whatever in the spark plug hole of your cylinder.
Then remove the screw on the side of the engine where the (KTM special tool) engine blocking bolt is supposed to go (see manual).
Shine a torch through the hole which manually cranking the engine slowly. There is a recess in the crankshaft where the tapered end of the blocking bolt would fit to lock the engine at TDC. You don't need the bolt, you just need to line the recess up with the hole (they are about the same size).
There is one mark for each cylinder so you use the approximation method first to put you close to the mark for your cylinder. Using this method and the info in the manual you can remove all the cams without marking and replace them accurately (don't ask how I know!)
so how much out of spec are you?
I'm now going into my second day of a major service,in fairness it is my first attempt but i think i am getting there.:eek1
Did a trip to the dealers to get some shims(four on the rear) and will have to do another tomorrow for the front cylinders(i only need ONE!! ).
Ohh,how do i get a torque wrench on the rear hex bolts which hold down the cam bridge?the ones right at the back i mean.
I have quite enjoyed it so far but i aint feeling too confident about bolting it all back together(the carbs and all them pipes!!:huh ).Should have it done by Weds cos i have to make some blanking plates for the SAS thing.
.05 on one exhaust, .10 on the other. .05 on one intake, .10 on the other.
I'm buttoning the front back up right now and gonna check the rear momentarily.
The cam marks line up with the edge of the case as the manual says. Tke CP's advise and get the manual. It's very simple, you'll have to try to fook it up.
I use a little 1/4" drive torque wrench which is ideal for this sort of job. You can get a reasonable one for £40 or so.
Not being an arse wipe nor anything but can you post a pic or even a link?
I have an Halfords torque wrench which i really do like but sometimes i cant get it in the tighter areas.
Teng Tools or Sealey make decent enough ones for £30-£40.
Most are similar to your Halfords one, but shrunk down to a 1/4".
At the moment I'm using one of these:
It's about the smallest I've seen, but the adjustment method is a bit fiddly.
I've just ordered a Facom one which is nicer and has a bit more range.
Bloody expensive mind, but I'm a bit of an obsessive tool collector...
Link doesn't work at the minute.
Also the allen bolts in there are 38NM(the larger ones in second stage of tightening).
I simply cant see how this wrench will fit in there mate although i am usually wrong.
I will try the link again tomorrow,all of Norbar website is down right now.
Thanks so far though.
Better check that . . .
It's here - 17th & 18th items down.
Sorry dude,i meant 18NM not the 38.....god knows where that came from!!:huh :huh
Thanks for the PM's both from Meathead and the mechanical wizard,the one and only........PYNDON!!
This is an adjustable torque wrench adapter that lets you use your existing torque wrench. It works like a charm. (Keep in mind that if the extension is used at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, no adjustment to the torque value is required.)