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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by sailah, May 4, 2006.
Cheers,have just looked to try and get one in UK,if not i may order one from US.
Just a few notes from my first (still in progress) self done valve adjustment.
I've decided that from now going forward, any time my valves need adjustment I will also plan to perform a full coolant flush. It's so much easier to work on the bike with the radiator removed that it's a no brainer to do this. ...in fact, it's really easy to work on the bike with the radiator out of the way!!!
I had 6 of my 8 valves out of spec at 20k. I have no idea where they were at at the last adjustment since I didn't do them, so I can't say how much they've moved, but as I will be doing them myself from now on so I can report back at the next interval. :) Both my rear exhaust valves were VERY tight, the left reading 0.076mm the right at 0.06mm. The intake on the rear were both the same, right on the tight side of in spec at 0.10mm.
The front were all close, but just out; the actual numbers escape me at the moment though. I was able to get all but one shim I needed from a local HD dealership and the one they didn't have just happened to be one of the shim sizes I'm pulling from the rear exhaust! ...I love it when things work out ok!
The "X" mark on the rear exhaust cam is very hard to see as the cam bridge gets in the way of a clear line of sight (though it is visible, just barely, by looking past the shock at an angle ...good light help a lot). This is only an issue for disassembly though, as obviously, when putting it back together the bridge is out of the way when placing the cam.
I made sure, when putting the cams back into postion to look at them 1 tooth "out" in each direction to get a visual idea of how far out they were if done wrong and was glad to note that it is very obvious when they are in the wrong spot! Also, using a small LED flex-light you can see the groove where the engine locking bolt nests, so I made sure to get that groove exactly centered in the hole to make sure there was no chance of the engine turning while I worked on it.
Another tip is turnign the engine using a breaker, vs. a socket wrench as it won't spin on you ...I have to do this with my XR since TDC falls at a spot where the compression will kick the engine past the mark. With a breaker you control exactly where the crank sits!
With the bike torn this far apart (forks on their way to Precision Concepts in Riverside) it only made sense to replace the water pump shaft and bearings, a project for this coming weekend.
I also took the opportunity to adjust the fork stops a little farther out for a better turning radius, making sure there was no contact elsewhere. Another thing to do was clean up the header pipe which has had red Baja clay caked to it for most of a year. It's now shiny clean and steel wooled.
I don't know about others on here, but when I'm deep into the bike, I like to clean/lube/loctite/torque everything I can get my hands on!
Thanks to all the tips on here (and other threads) I've found that working on the KTM, even in a cramped little corner like the one I have availalbe to me, is worth the effort. It's entirely likely that this will be the first time since the bike was new, that it has been adjusted, lubed and set up properly. ...I can't wait to ride!!!
No worries... 990 valve adjustment
For those looking for an engine locking bolt, this works perfectly:
Will somebody hold my hand, I'm scared.
Rear valve cover off getting ready to find TDC and remove the bridge.
Just as a FYI, I found that the 14mm allen cap that you need to remove from the left side of the bike so that you can manually turn the engine,is kind of tight and might fool you into thinking it's a 13mm, which it's not. The cap is plastic and on my bike (2004 950 Adventure) I had to tap the allen into the hole with a rubber mallet. It was a tight fit.
Good call....i tried for ages trying to buy a 13mm....D'oh!!:huh
Ordered my kit last night. Thanks for the tip!
What kit are you guys ordering? Shim size varies by kit.
It's the "Hot Cams" shim kit from Dennis Kirk. It's part number 14-8752. There are two part numbered kits in 9.48mm. Just make sure to get the # above. I think the catalog will list it fitting the RC-51, ZX-10 etc.
$66 on Ebay from Troy-Racing. One (1) left so hurry
Thanks, ordered one.
Isn't there a Honda that takes the same size shim? I've got a local dealer for that brand and it sure would make life easier. Anyone heard of this or know which model it is?
If you're talking about 10mm shims, I don't know of a Honda that uses them (doesn't mean there isn't one), butt I do know Aprillia, Harley Davidson V-Rod, and some Rotax powered machines use them.
cpmodem - are you using the 9.48mm hotcam shims?They are the same size as the DRZ400S shims,which is what i originally bought the hotcams shims for.
If it is ok to use the 9.48mm shims then it makes the valve check job so much easier,no waiting for dealers to get shims in stock.
Not CP, but I used the HotCams shims during my recent valve change and they fit perfectly. Side by side, the difference is minor and I can't see how there could be an issue. As always, YMMV! Good luck.....Mike
I haven't used the 9.48mm Hot Cam shims yet. My kit from Troy Honda just arrived today. Good price and quick service. I've always used the 10mm before, but will give these a try next adjustment. They also fit several of my other bikes, so should prove to be a good investment in the long run.
Sheesh, CP. We were waiting with bated breath for you to hold forth on the theory of why shims .52 mm smaller than spec'd are or are not bad for your engine. I'm frankly disappointed.
Good enough for me.cheers.
Believe (but please double check) that CRF450 shims can be used.