Valve job tips?

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by sailah, May 4, 2006.

  1. cpmodem

    cpmodem Orange Caveman

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,130
    Location:
    masa yee yah tee 59° 14' 9" N / 135° 26' 42" W
    Doh! My bad. It says right in the Troy Honda add that these shims fit the TRX and CRF 450's.:komet

    Also: KFX400, KLX400, DRZ400, LTZ400, RMZ450, WR/YZ400/426/450, YFZ450
  2. positionsize

    positionsize Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    103
    Location:
    Arizona, Florida and Philippines
    Greetings Everyone,

    I am checking the Valves on my new to me 2006 950A and have a few questions.

    When rotating the engine to TDC anti-clockwise via the Allen Head inside generator cover I hear a light clicking noise every full rotation of the engine. The sound is coming from the cam chain area of the front left cylinder. My SWA guess is its something to do with the cam chain tensioner. It sounds similar the clack of the auto-decomp on my 640 but much quieter. I don't think its a problem and I did not change anything on the motor but I would like some input. Does anyone know what it is??


    My second question:

    Is the re torque of the heads necessary on the later model 950's. I realize its wont hurt anything to re torque. But it is not mentioned in the maintenance schedule. My bike already has the new nuts from the factory So.........is it really necessary? Or just a carryover precaution from the earlier models service bulletin on gasket failures?



    Thx
  3. elljoh

    elljoh Gumby

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia.
    had the same question in this thread:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417180

    my '04 950a had 25K km's at the time so i was concerned about the cam chain... like my sound, yours is probably due to oil draining from the tensioner.

    /elljoh
  4. fmfpunk

    fmfpunk Hooligan in training

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,196
    Location:
    La Verne, CA
    For those in the know: one of my exhaust valves is .001" out of spec on the loose side. Does valve lash tend to get greater or lessen w/ time?

    thx.
  5. Flying Naartjie

    Flying Naartjie One day Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Just did my 07' 950SE, Intakes were tight down to zero (couldn't even get a 0.05 feeler in there), Exhaust were loose to just past the end of the range. I have heard that the Intakes tend to tighten up as the valves sink into their seats and the exhausts tend to loosen up as carbon residue builds up between the valve neck and the seat, but it seems not everyone has had that experience although that does look to be the case on my motor (now done 15000Km).
  6. ADVJake

    ADVJake ***** dweller

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,341
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    not a good sign mate. i suspect your motor has been dusted to have the valves close up that early.
  7. positionsize

    positionsize Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    103
    Location:
    Arizona, Florida and Philippines

    Thanks For the link Mate!

    Exactly what I was looking for :thumb
  8. robbie c

    robbie c trail addict

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    678
    Location:
    Hereford
    I've just checked the clearances on my 950SE with 10000 miles on the clock.
    Exhausts on the rear were 0.3mm on the front they were 0.35mm which appears to be outside spec and must have been set that way.
    inlets were 0.08, 0.10, 0.10 and 0.13, I took 0.05 off the 3 on the lower limit.
    This job was easier than I thought it would be.
    The two tips that I liked were looking in through the hole in the pump casing with a torch, this worked really well, the other was to get a long 8mm bolt and grind a point on to it.
    When you look in with the torch you can see the gap you need, if it's the rear cylinder then any long bolt would do as it goes straight through the crank but when at tdc on the front cylinder the bolt has to locate in a blind hole and so needs the point.

    I took my time and enjoyed it.

    Water pump next.

    Cheers

    Rob
  9. Bonova

    Bonova Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
    17
    Location:
    South Africa
    Hey Guys. I know this is an old quote... but i need some advise please!
    Advise on H.O.W and here suggests the final torque for the head nuts is 38nm. But my manual says 46 Nm? is there a reason that most people are torqueing to 38 instead?
    thanks!
  10. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,185
    Location:
    SWEDEN, Norsjö
    2004 Manual says 46Nm

    2011 Manual says 38Nm on interior nuts and 34Nm on exterior nuts.

    /Johan
  11. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,012
    Location:
    East Med, Greece
    Hi there,
    I just did the valves and had the bridge bolts torqued at 10Nm and then the M8 bolts to 18Nm. However one bolt got stripped by the Alen bit and all of them seemed at their limit. Is there any lesser torque values announced on younger models, that do not endanger the bolts' heads, or is it my clampsiness only to blame?
    Cheers.
  12. rattis

    rattis Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,881
    Location:
    East of the seas of Kattegat
    Yeah I found the allen heads to be on the soft side, new bolts next time.
  13. Katoom72

    Katoom72 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2012
    Oddometer:
    952
    Location:
    Belgium
    Yup, soft as butter. Better to replace them every valve job.
    I stripped one of the allen bolts and had to play handyman with a EZ-out and a magnet to avoid metal chips in my valvetrain.
    Went out and bought 8 new ones, they torqued down without a sign of giving out.