As promised, here is the build thread for my wifes 2017 versys x 300! she has affectionately named it "Lady", inspired by her old loyal dogs name that passed away years ago. We decided to designate this bike as a Versys 300x adventure due to the nature of the modifications that will be done to it. we welcome all input, both negative and positive. as with my other builds, please feel free to ask me anything, the more input the better! before i start the build, a-little bit of background/planning: my wifey is ~5ft tall and weighs 105lb's with a 27" inseam. we will be building this bike with 4 primary objectives in-mind: 1-first, bike has to be as light as physically possible <-----this is by far the single most important objective and as you will see we will be aiming for a wet weight of 350-360lb's and going to great lengths to achieve this. 2- the bike has to be as comfortable on the highway as possible. 3-she requested that she must be able to flat foot at least one foot, or almost flat foot both feet. 4-lastly the bike must be able to preform off-road. - secondary objectives: good gas mileage, long service intervals, enough luggage capacity for multiday camping or multi week rides, and enough lights to be seen from space haha. after selling her ninja 300, she had 3 main bikes to choose from: the versys x 300, the crf250l rally, Yamaha xt250. she almost went with the Yamaha xt250 strictly due to weight and seat height. however i convinced her to get the 300x due to nearly triple the HP, and the fact she will be doing alot of highway. she probably will end up getting the xt250 later and have both bikes, one for the bush, and this one for long hauls. initial impressions: after putting ~800km on the versys x 300 before it started to snow, i was pleasantly surprised. Kawasaki did a very good job with this bike. the suspension is very good for such a cheap bike, yeah it may only have R-5.8/F-5.1 of travel but it is very well dampened both on and off road. the engine is truly a gem, revs like a sport bike up high but putters around like a thumper at low revs. the clutch is stupidly light, tons of pull down low ( the re-tuned versys 300 engine is very noticeable when riding the ninja side by side with the versys), the aerodynamics of the versys are spot on for small riders as i found the fairings keep almost all of the wind off and they even "lipped" certain panels to reduce turbulence, well done Kawasaki! the windscreen is plenty wide but not tall enough, once raised it will be nearly perfect, the wind screen being lipped at the top makes a huge difference. the seat/foot pegs are rubber mounted and the handle bar has very heavy vibration dampeners, again, great work Kawasaki! fantastic fuel economy so far (averaging 3L/100km), however with her old ninja she was able to get 2.5L/100km (average) which we suspect will be the same with the versys 300, perhaps even better due to the re-tuned engine. assuming 2.5L/100km that's an impressive 700km range! only 4 major downsides i can think of for this bike, all of which will be remedied in this build: -385lbs may be light for most but for a 5ft, 105lb, 27" inseam person, 385lb's is like most riding a 600lb's+ bike. -lack of engine skid plate, an absolute must for any bike that wishes to go off-road/ or off-pavement. sad Kawasaki did not include one from factory. -headlight is just abysmal, as with most single bulb motorbikes. -handlebar being steel and not rubber mounted will bend like cheese first time you crash it off-road. now lets start the build! -"- warning, graphic images ahead -"- no mercy was given to unnecessary weight. angle grinder got one hell of a workout here is the bike stock, 800km and this will be the last time its 100% stock. 1-seat stock seat was WAY too stiff. we measured 1/8" of foam compression with her weight on the seat (1/4" with my 175lbs.......). i dont understand why they made a seat thats 3" thick but only compresses 1/8"....... i suspect that the foam formula was tampered with resulting in some people having very stiff seats. like no joke, my R1 had a more comfortable seat and it was only 1" thick lol. so we bought that gel seat insert, came with a very light thin foam on top of the gel (seen in white) and a medium under layer (seen in grey), and gell of course is the green. we cut 1.5" off the back of the seat foam ( weight reduction and she wanted a very flat and low back seat for her giant loop bag) i then cut two medium foam side pieces for her butt cheeks and one piece for the front (the light yellow/tan). i also cut two very soft foam pieces (the dark grey) for the sides of her legs, reason its super soft is because i want her leg going straight down without interference from the seat foam to gain a few mm of leg inseam. lastly i covered everything with 1/8" neoprene the stock seat was 3" thick, the new seat is 1.5" thick but it compresses ~0.5" thus the seat height is effectively 2" lower then stock then put the stock leather back on. stock seat was 2289g saved 120g over the stock seat, foam weighs a fair bit surprisingly. 2-suspension / ride height. stock the suspension sags only 10% in the rear and 15% in the front for her (30% rear and 40% in the front for me 175lb). since the front suspension is non-adjustable i had to remove the pre-load spacer and cut it down. this had the effect of reducing the pre-load. bottom pipe is stock, top pipe is the cut down one now the bike sags 35% in the front for her. and still has the full 5.1" of travel. dampening was abit stiff in the front too so i removed a little bit of the fluid and replaced with 5w. after a few tests dialed it in perfectly for her weight. as for the rear, the pre-load is adjustable but even on its lowest setting it still was too stiff (20% sag), so i cut into the pre-load adjuster, i slightly cut into the paint of the shock, i assure u the shock was not damaged, only scuffed the paint. this lowered the pre-load even more and now sag is at 30% in the rear with her on it. please note that kawasaki used a rubber insert in the "eye" of the shock to reduce vibration from road, nice touch kawasaki! now that the suspension sag/ dampening was dialed in we can move onto ride height. front of the bike was lowered by exactly 2". easy enough, just lower the triple clamp. but there was an issue. if you lower it any more then 1" the radiator guard and the horn will slightly hit the wheel fender. so i cut the horn mount down and bent it too the side to clear the fender, and as for the radiator i simply pushed back the radiator mount and re-welded a new mounting bracket ( radiator sits 0.5" back now). this gave plenty of room for the front wheel fender and rubbing was completely eliminated. bent the brake line mount to the side too to help better clear the fork tubes. the back was lowered by 2.5". i originally was just gonna machine a new link but after closer inspection i found that there was an inherent problem with the stock geometry /design. the pro-link sits way too low, it sits a good 3-4" lower then the exhaust (when fully unloaded or 2-3" loaded). this would be a point of impact during off-road adventures. now considering that i will be shaving the oil pan down and moving the exhaust later ,this would further exasperate the problem. so i had to move the entire pro-link up into the chassis. i ended up welding two washers about 1.5" higher then stock. i also drilled a new hole in the shock (about 1" higher) , this had the desired effect as the pro-link now sits about 1.5" higher. geometry was not changed as the rear wheel travel i confirmed was still 5.8" of travel but since the geometry has roughly a 2-1 leverage ratio, moving the link up 1.5" lowered the rear of the bike by ~2.5". stock modded. notice how it completely clears the exhaust now. and this in unloaded, once loaded the pro-link sits up even higher. cut the kick stand down by ~2" and re-welded the flat bottom and the kicker there we go, she can flat foot one foot. seat height is now ~27.5" mission accomplished. 3-weight reduction pretty self explanatory. surprising how much steel weighs........ or plastic for that matter rear foot pegs and misc (2.6lb) fake engine guards (1.5lb) rear rack (6.6lb)!!! rear fender (2.6lb) dont have a pic but the stock rear sprocket weighed in at 900g , aluminum one was ~300g (1.4lb in savings) i also didnt weigh the stock vibration dampener/handle bar but probably saved a few lbs there too. will know for sure in the final weigh in. will be swapping out every single stock steel panel/fairing screw with aluminum screws. and here is why...... stock/steel: aluminum: swapped out the stock 3912g battery (8.6lb) with a 471g (1lb) lithium battery 7.6lb's in weight savings right there, thats huge!!!! removed the center stand mount (1.9lbs) . but kept alittle of it as it will be the mounting point for the future aluminum skid plate. thats more then 25lbs so far. still got another 10lb's or so to shave off!! 350lbs wet here we come! 4-handle bar , crash protection, hand guards oem crash guard weight (~2lb) since i lowered the front of the bike by 2", i had to cut down the front crash bar mount by 1" as seen below. the wheel fender was hitting it. the right side of pic shows where its suppose to be stock, the left is where i ended up putting it. please note i also had to crush the crash bar slightly (make it oval rather then round) and trim it to make it fit. hand guard (0.9lb) installed a small wind deflector to add more comfort to her hands. the wind gets whisked under and away from ur fingers. checking to make sure it clears the fender. next , installed some adjustable levers. had to cut the balls off the end off to get them to fit ( handle bar width/size issue), couldn't get the space necessary to make em fit. lucky only had to trim the ball. also put on some shrink wrap to help with holding cold lever in cold weather. did not weigh the new aluminum handle bar vs old steel one but i would guess about a pound in weight saving had to shave off some of the stock handle bar mounts, this is because the rox 2" anti-vibration riser has to be as far apart as possible for correct functionality, if the risers are to close together the handle bar will deflect from side to side too much during normal operation. also milled out ( made 1/8" larger) the 1-1/8 fat bar mount to fit some rubber between the handle bar and the clamps, further reducing vibration. heated grips: 5-wind screen stock windscreen is fairly good but we noticed it was abit too vertical and not tall enough. so we made it taller by about 3" and we reduced the angle of the screen by about 5 degrees (further back). this had the desired effect as the wind now goes straight over and around her head, pretty much no turbulence at all at 110km/hr. but she can still see the road over her screen. 6-vibration footpeg vibration dampening. 125g (0.3lb) each. she wanted to get rid of them but after a ride with and without them, i told her to keep em as they get rid of alot of vibration, totally wort it. good job kawi!! the seat is rubber mounted already but some vibration still comes through so i added a 1/8" soft rubber to help with any vibration, now the bike seat rides butter smooth. the stock bar end / vibration damper is very heavy. didn't weigh it or the stock bar but probably saved a few lbs, but they could not fit in the new aluminum handle bar...... handle bar was already rubber mounted from #4, but i added some vibration isolation to the bars-ends / hand guards. please note how the hand guard is rubber mounted along with and separate to the bar-end. this means the bar end does not directly touch the hand guard or the handle bar, its completely rubber isolated! with the handle bars rubber mounted to the riser, and the riser rubber mounted to the triple clamps, and the rubber mounted bar-ends the vibration is practically all gone. of course some still gets through, you can never get rid of all of it. but compared to ridged mounting i would say 95% of the vibration is gone. 7- gearing stock bike has a 46T steel sprocket (900g), bike reved at 8k @120km/hr, way too high, especially for a 105lb person. so we ordered a 43T aluminum sprocket (~300g), bike now revs at about 7,300rpm @120km/hr. had to shorten the chain by 2 links , weight savings!!!!! lol bike still pulls up hills with a head wind just fine with me on it. and if needed 5th is always available. also installed some rear aluminum spools now, not only will the bike get better fuel economy but because it reves less the wear on the engine will be reduced too. which is good because after the oil pan is shaved we will loose about 20% oil capacity so end of the day oil life will remain about the same. also less vibration and engine/ exhaust noise is always a huge plus. 8-rear of bike / tail light didnt feel like spending 150$ for a fender eliminator so i just made one from the stock fender metal pieces. in the pic below ive got the rear tire as high as it will go to make sure it clears everything. painted it with bedliner. next i cut a hole in the rear tail light. this allows light to illuminate the license plate at night. so rather then have a separate bulb/ wiring for the plate light, one bulb does it all. covered the hole with a lexan piece that i frosted to give better light dispersion. i then plastic welded it on and put some silicone to seal it up. also not shown in the pictures i cut out a small hole in the fender to allow light to light up the plate. looking good! i actually didn't mind the look of the stock rear fender, but weight savings and fender eliminator always looks better IMO. 9-headlights/projectors, foglights and lighting. not hard removing lens, just heat in oven at 230F for ~15 mins and pry apart. remove bulb. and replace with projector. i did have to trim the reflector a-bunch as the projector was too large and was hitting the headlight lens. if anyone plans on doing this i recommend using the mini H1-7.0 projector as the D2S-4.0 is just gonna be a pain in the ass. installed the shroud. all in and together, looks great. preforms amazing. did some testing last night, getting the beam level and at the right height. here is the stock v300x reflector headlight, with stock 55w bulb: here is the mini D2S 4.0 with 35w HID. wow! so much wider, so much more light down range, and half the wattage: highbeam: rubber mounted the foglights, made my own mounting bracket, painted with bed-liner of course. lights look blue-ish in the photo but in Real life they are pure white, no blue at all, only in the cutoff as it should be. 10-luggage luggage. good thing we took off the rear rail/rack. makes mounting the Giant loop bag much easier. we wanted the GL bag to be removable, but when i say removable, i mean like 5 secs removable, not sit there for 10 mins fiddling with straps and shit. so i sewed in some clips and 4 clips hold the entire bag on, 2 under the set, and 2 (one on each side) on the lower part of the bag attached to the rear sub frame. takes about 15 secs to remove or install the entire bag just testing fitment with stuffed full of cloths. 11-exhaust next up is the exhaust: in case anyone is wondering , the stock muffler weighs 3830g (8.4lb). so easily can save 4-5lbs with an after market pipe. however, we both enjoy quiet exhaust so we are keeping the stock one. the catalytic converter weighs in at: 737g (1.6lb) and that is not even the whole story, because if you remove the cat you still need the pipe, thus the cat only weighs less then 100g..... so looks like we are keeping the cat too. flipped the water temp sensor and re-enforced the wire to allow it not to touch the engine using shrink wrap. next, re-positioning and tack welding the exhaust: making sure the exhaust does not hit her foot, which it doesn't. clears the brake lever too. looking good. not finished but tacked up , ready for final welding. plenty of ground clearance now and since i used less piping then stock exhaust , it did save some weight too. my guess is about 1-2lb's u may also notice that i moved the exhaust header back towards the engine, this is to make room for the skid plate to come. so the skid plate clears the front wheel. kept the O2 sensor too. still have to make a heat shield for the exhaust to protect the water sensor, and wrap the exhaust where her foot will be as to not burn/melt it. 12-oil pan / ground clearance, and skid plate. weighs in a 2632g (5.8lb) including screws, pretty heavy for an aluminum skid plate i know but i wanted maximum protection/ coverage. and at 4.7mm (3/16") thick 6061 she can land the entire bike on a pointy rock and i am confident the plate will survive. ground down the welds/edges. next, sanded the entire plate smooth. 3 bolts hold the entire plate on. two in the back and the front bolt is that long one that attaches the engine to the frame. ( so total of 4 mount points). reminds me of one of those dakar bikes with the massive skid plate exhaust shield flows nicely with the plate. oil changes will be a breeze, just take out both back bolts and the plate pivots forward. EZ 14-electrical not quite the same "loom of doom" as my 500L, but enough to cause a head ache. fuse box fits nicely on the side of the bike hidden away on the fairing. 4 relays and 4 fused power. relay for : -foglight -headlight/DRL -headted grips/12v socket -highbeam and the switches for them all relays work off of switched power off the ignition so if the bike is off the relays are off. 15-tires 16-misc pretty straight forward install, pull out the stanchion tubes, slide the gators over em and zip tie them in place. i ended up cutting the gators in half to fit correctly. that will keep the dust off the stanchions phone mount installed today. its replaceable on the fly with a quick release under the phone mount, can be used with various mounts. also installed those tank grip pads. 17-final weigh in you guys ready for this? bike is fully fueled, but i did not include the luggage (giant loop bag ~5lb's) rear tire: 174.2lb front tire: 187.4lb's 187.4lb+174.2lb= 361.6 lb's!!!! mission accomplished! a few things left to here and there, like headlight alignment, ergonomic adjustments, etc,etc.