Versys 300x adventure build

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by michaelkozera, Dec 27, 2017.

  1. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    not really sure what you mean by geometry change? if you read my 1st post i stated that i did not change the geometry at all, i simply moved the entire pro link up by 1.5" and since the pro link has roughly a 2-1 leverage ratio, a 1.5" vertical move of the pro link resulted in about 2.5" lowering of the rear wheel.

    and i know the geometry was not changed because when i removed the spring and had just the shock attached, the suspension travel at the wheel was still exactly 5.8" , as it was when i measured it stock, 5.8".


    i might have to take another pic to explain better but since the pro link uses a long link piece to attach to the swing arm. moving the pro link up by 1.5" has the same effect as lengthening this piece:
    jZ7pvkqh.jpg
    and i moved the pro-link up at both ends, on the frame and at the shock.
    #21
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  2. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    here is that better photo:

    [​IMG]


    its from the other side..
    #22
  3. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Thanks Michael

    I think you answered my question. My original question for the stock geometry was when the shock was bottomed was the prolink inline with the frame pivot point (would the prolink centerline align with a line from the frame pivot to the swingarm end of the prolink). I was just curious. With your geometry change I expect that the shock bottoms well before any linkage bottoms out. That may have been the case for the stock geometry also.
    #23
  4. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Did you do anything special to keep the new link pivot centerline parallel to the original - such a make a jig, or just careful measurement when you welded in the new "washers" - looks very clean. If you ground off the old tabs I would think it was OEM.
    #24
  5. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    working on the tail light today:

    didnt feel like spending 150$ for a fender eliminator so i just made one from the stock fender metal pieces.


    in the pic below ive got the rear tire as high as it will go to make sure it clears everything.

    [​IMG]


    painted it with bedliner.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    next i cut a hole in the rear tail light. this allows light to illuminate the license plate at night. so rather then have a separate bulb/ wiring for the plate light, one bulb does it all.

    [​IMG]


    covered the hole with a lexan piece that i frosted to give better light dispersion. i then plastic welded it on and put some silicone to seal it up.

    also not shown in the pictures i cut out a small hole in the fender to allow light to light up the plate.

    [​IMG]


    looking good!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    i actually didn't mind the look of the stock rear fender, but weight savings and fender eliminator always looks better IMO.
    #25
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  6. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    yes , the shock bottoms first as it did with the stock geometry. its only ~6" of travel so it dont move much. but yeah i totally get what your saying cuz with other bikes that have 10" or more of travel the prolink moves a fair bit.

    just careful measurements.

    making sure both sides went up vertically by the same amount, both on the frame and the shock.
    #26
  7. rideforzen

    rideforzen Long timer

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    Do you remove the fender for looks or weight loss ? I always thought they were a good thing.

    The build is looking good. Your making me want to go out to the shop and make something.

    Ok I see where you stated why. Need more coffee.
    #27
  8. ben2go

    ben2go Long timer

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    I don't like the looks fo them but I keep them to keep spray off my luggage. They help but I still get some spray on my trunk right across the carry handle and lock.
    #28
  9. totensiebush

    totensiebush re-tarded

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    Regarding bar mounts, if you ever change the triple I'd consider something like the RG3. It allows for good vibration damping without excessive motion of the bars, thanks to more mount locations.

    https://i.imgur.com/V4b4XGJ.jpg
    #29
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  10. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    got the gators on today.

    [​IMG]

    pretty straight forward install, pull out the stanchion tubes, slide the gators over em and zip tie them in place.

    i ended up cutting the gators in half to fit correctly.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    that will keep the dust off the stanchions
    #30
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  11. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    here is something really cool.

    we were gonna buy these OEM foglight covers:
    [​IMG]


    but they are something like 110$ just for both covers!!! way too expensive.


    so i came up with a nice solution.

    below you can see the OEM fork stanchion guards which we dont need anymore because we installed the gators.

    [​IMG]


    but these stanchion guards fit perfectly over the TRS LED foglights!!

    [​IMG]


    recycle and re-use people.:wings
    #31
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  12. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    looks like i wont be shaving the oil pan.

    if u look at these photos below the oil pan is lined with many "fins"

    [​IMG]

    both outside and inside

    [​IMG]


    now the reason this is such an issue is because originally i thought the outer fins where simply for protection/ strength. but after seeing that they are also inside the oil pan, this leave me to conclude that the oil pan acts like a oil cooler.

    i also confirmed this by reading into the OEM engine spec sheet which stated the oil pan was indeed a oil cooler for the bike. apparently under high load/high rpm the oil needs additional cooling to provide adequate protection and clearance for the valve train. this make sense because this bike can rev all the way to 13,500rpm!

    since i do not want to interfere with the reliability of this bike, ive decided to not shave the oil pan. if i shaved it i would have to remove too many fins and reducing the oil capacity by too much. also since im building a skid plate the oil pan/cooler is already going to be pretty much starved of cooling anyways so im gonna have to drill some holes in the skid plate for air intake.



    now this brings up a new problem.

    originally i was gonna shave the oil pan to gain an additional 1-2" of ground clearance. currently the bike sits at exactly 6" of ground clearance ,(5" with her on it).

    [​IMG]

    however, the oil pan is not the lowest part. the exhaust sits 1 " lower then the oil pans lowest point. (lets call it 5" since the photo above shows 6" to the pan)

    but if u look at this photo the front of the exhaust sits even lower. (4" or so)

    [​IMG]


    since i will be moving the exhaust for sure, this is what it would look like:

    (red line is the flat ground)
    [​IMG]


    6" would be the lowest point, but the front would have almost 8" good angle too for hitting rocks, logs, and bumps.


    thoughts?
    #32
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  13. NJ-Bill

    NJ-Bill Life is good Supporter

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    What about an external oil cooler? They are readily available and you obviously have the skills to make that work.
    #33
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  14. Redneck-Hippie

    Redneck-Hippie Adventurer

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    Nice that moving the exhaust creates the clearance needed. Given she wont be log bashing, at this point of her riding with this bike, what material do plan for the sump guard?
    #34
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  15. 79thunder

    79thunder Been here awhile

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    I think you would be just fine like that. Build a skid plate with 1/4" clearance to the oil pan.
    Don't attach the plate to the engine. I believe you have left some mounts at the rear where the center stand was for this reason.
    The approach angle/clearance should be fine.
    I'm sure you already know all of this.

    Just curious, could you section the oil pan and keep the cooling fins? (Cut a triangle wedge out of the rear of the oil pan. "Bend" the bottom of the pan up and reweld.)
    Like this:

    versys oil pan section.jpg
    #35
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  16. ben2go

    ben2go Long timer

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    Check your oil filter. My CB500X uses a short filter. I found that there is both a K&N and a Honda oil filter that is longer than the OE by a little more than an inch. That would give you a little extra oil capacity and a little more cooling depending on where the filter is located on the Kawi. I agree adding an oil cooler could give back some cooling and capacity if you section the oil pan.
    #36
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  17. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    was thinking about this.

    but is 1 extra inch of ground clearance really worth 5-8lb's of weight and added complexity?? not my call, its my wifes.....


    6061 aluminum, probably 1/4" for the lower part, and 1/8" for the upper/sides

    i was thinking of cutting it and just adding my own fins, problem is still will be reducing the oil capacity at that point.

    at this point i think im leaning towards the" leave it as it is" route. last thing we want is an engine failure when we are 5,000km from home.

    i shaved the oil pan of the crf500L but that did not use the oil pan as a cooler.
    #37
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  18. ben2go

    ben2go Long timer

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    The oil filter wouldn't add much weight. The oil cooler could add up.
    #38
  19. Fat Toney

    Fat Toney Long timer

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    Great thread! Thanks for taking the time to be so thorough.
    #39
  20. OHjim

    OHjim Long timer

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    Hmmm. How do you get 5-8 lbs for something like this?

    [​IMG]

    The oil weight would be a wash. A couple hoses and some small mounting brackets. You can even deduct the weight removed from the oil pan.
    #40
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