Ves ATW

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Veselko, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Picked up the honey at the airport, rode the complimentary bicycles to the Puerto Morelos beach, strolled around, swam, and layed under a palm tree for hours just catching up.

    The leaning tower in the photos is the old light house, just a monument now, which was put out of commission by a hurricane in the 60's.
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    And got to see a beachfront wedding. Beyond the group of people is a makeshift dance floor, looked like big blocks of granite. Tables set up with fine china,... the works.
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  2. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    The beach hunting process continues... rough job, but someone has to do it. But before that..

    Tadaaaa!! What amazing concoction is this, you say...

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    Ah... making sour cabbage... and while that's fermenting... We went off and looked for another beach. Went north of Puerto Morales, down some increasingly narrow rough road and got to an opening (everything is private property) that looked promising...

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    Parked it under a palm tree for a bit...
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    but there was a lot of seaweed on the beach, and it was kind of messy, and we were on private property, and the owner had eyeballed us already, so we moved on, back to the Puerto Morales beach for the day and rode around the town looking for a good tortillaria, and found a pretty good one.

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    Next day, decided to go down to the Playa Del Carmen beach, which is supposed to be one of the worlds top beaches... Ready?...

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    Went down the main road to get to a little side road looked like it went to the beach... turning in, it didn't look great... fenced, two tracks, but what the heck... went for a while and came to some back door gate...

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    Discussions with the guards inside ensued and noooo... private property, go back, take this road, etc... so we turned around. But while we were down there, someone chained the gate closed where we came in! Luckily there were two workers near by that had the key and let us out, but not without a lecture... Si'.. Gracias... lo sento... no se...

    Found our way to the public beach entrance. Even with the motorcycle it was tough to find parking... So, there was a line of scooters parked... and there was almost enough room between two of them... and one of the locals says just move them over... really? I wouldn't want someone moving my motorcycle so I was opposed... but he insisted it's no problem and helped move them... ok...
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    Got to the beach about 11:00 so getting hot! Guy waves us over... basically, hey I'll sell you two lounge chairs under this umbrella for blah-blah, and honey, being a shrewd negotiator, talk him down to $9.00... Shade, banos, and "My name is Wilson... like the ball... if you need anything, let me know". Alrighteee... Wilson.

    The beach was no better than the others, quite a bit of sea weed and murky waters... they had a crew cleaning it up, but it's the season for it I guess. Still an awesome way to spend some hours.
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    Wilson also made an awesome recommendation! One of the things I've been really missing is the big US style burritos... you know, the one's that are like 2.5" in diameter... apparently Mexico hasn't gotten the word that that's how they are suppose to be made... instead they have these pitiful things that are less than 1" in diameter and you need like five of them. Anyway, he told us about a street vendor about 5 blocks away... had to be one of the best burritos I've had... Toasted and just dripping with juice and flavor... mmmm...

    And after we were nicely toasted ourselves and all swum out, headed back home...

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    Got just a smidgen too much sun so no beaching today... But shortly after we woke up, honey says, should I scream?... I'm like why? There's a creature in the shower...

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    I think I killed it's babies earlier... I said you should probably look away, they make a crunch sound... but she talked me into trapping it and letting it go outside... so he's on the prowl again... But now we can never drink out of the glass I used to trap him with... Yeah, need to go wash that...
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  3. roadcapDen

    roadcapDen Ass, Grass or Gas, no free rides.

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    Great stuff!
    That deserted beach near Sisal Yucatan looked like a nice place to set up a winter abode!
    Time for a lime in my Cerveza. :photog
  4. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Si' ! Can't vouch for it being deserted in winter, but it's far enough off the beaten path that it could just be.
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  5. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    We did end up going to the Puerto Morales beach last night just before sunset. Layed under a palm tree for a bit, took a walk around, had some awesome burritos, and watched the cruise ships go by on the horizon...

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    Today, in our relentless pursuit of the perfect beach, went up toward Cancun... and I think we found it! Playa Delfines. On the way there had a police check point issue... left all my papers, except my license, back in Puerto Morales... The only day I've done that and that's when they pick me... after being read the riot act they let us go on...

    Anyway, in season this beach would be packed, but today it was relatively empty. And the grass umbrellas are first come first serve. The water temp was just cold enough to counter the hot sun. Plenty of waves to play around in... serious body surfing!

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  6. b00sted

    b00sted n00b

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    Damn, the burrito(and the pico) looks better than anything we can get up here.
  7. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Yup, definitely up there with the best I've had. That's a veggie burrito too. Obviously you can get them with mucho carne as well. And you get chips and some dipping sauce as an appetizer. Good sauces too. The pics above are at the main intersection near the beach. This place was about half a block North of the main road going to the beach, West side off the road. And there are a bunch of other restaurants and bars.

    In general, Puerto Moralos is a pretty nice Pueblo. It's got two really good grocery stores in the main town (about 2.5 km from the beach area), various shops, etc.. definitely a good choice for Budget travel! At the beaches up near Cancun instead of $2.50, a plate will cost you $15-20 US. Guess that's not a problem if you go for the all inclusive hotels along that strip. But I'm not the all inclusive type. And your only 30 min from Cancun and less than an hour from Playa Del Carmen. Good location.
  8. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Well... sometimes $#&% just happens and that's that... Honey is flying back to the US to take care of this:

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    Left wrist is fractured. Fell off a bicycle last night when going down hill, and the brakes failed. Went flying out into the street. Just lucky there were no cars coming and lucky it's just a wrist. Can't describe the feeling in my stomach when I saw her fly off. So thankful she's OK. But after discussion decided the best thing for her is to fly back and get surgery done in the US.

    And a few days ago found out that the mother of my children died. The endless serious of personal tragedies that were her life really could not have ended in any other way but her untimely death. Sometimes people serve only to show us how not to live our lives. Needless to say my daughters are taking it hard and I need to go see them.

    Also, I need to assist with flying my father to Croatia in October, he's going back there in what are probably his final years and he and my sisters need some help.

    So, in a few days I'm going to make a beeline back to the US and take care of things there (beeline being about 3000 miles). I looked into shipping the bike and flying back or storing it until I come back, but couldn't thing of a good reason why. I ride, that's what I do, and I should be back there in 2-3 weeks. Plan is to take off again in December, and this time honey is coming with me. Not sure yet if we'll just continue down the America's or maybe head for Africa or Australia, and swing back around when we're done with other parts of the world. We'll see.
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  9. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    So, Ana (honey) is back in the US seeing an orthopedic doctor today and getting her options. She'd prefer minimally invasive and no permanent metal and screws, but ortho here said it would be high risk because the bone is so far out of place, there's not guarantee they can get it back to exactly where it needs to be unless they go in. We'll see if the US doc says different.

    As for me, I continued my search for a motorcycle shop that could do my oil and tires. With two reasonably sized towns within 40 minutes you'd think it would be easy. Been calling one Suzuki shop in Cancun for three days, no answer. The other one in Playa Del Carmen has really bad ratings. One bigger shop in town is never open... so called a Yamaha shop in Cancun, West side of town on "Av 20 de Noviembre" (Yes, they name their streets after calander dates) and they were willing to do it.

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    *** If you like stories for the sake of amusement, read on. The short story is I did get everything done and then had to adjust when I got home ***

    Brought it in at 10:00 today. First they say it should be done at 6:00... Huh? 8 hours for an oil change and two tires? I'm like, my room is 40 minutes away... can I help? So, then they start the oil change and take off both tires, took maybe all of 30 minutes. Then they say that the front tire is no problem, but they can't do the rear (it's big, you have to break the bead, and get the new tire on... yeah... and they don't have a machine, and neither do any of the bike shops in Cancun, including his amigo at the Suzuki shop that wasn't answering) and at one point they're poking around with a big screwdriver. I'm like Hey! No bueno! Don't you have tire irons?... so now I'm trying to figure out if there's someone else I can call, but they say there's a tire place near by, so we pile it all in the car and he drives me over... It's an auto tire place, and doesn't look to me like I want to trust them with my motorcycle wheels... There's some humming and hawing and I say, if they can't do it right, then let's not do it. So, we drive back. I say, well, just put the tires back on and I'll have to do them manually at my place. Problem is the gas station with pressure is like 1 km away. I ask if I can just come back tomorrow, do the work myself, but in their shop so I can use their air... More ho and hum and phone calls and seems there is a shop 30 minutes north that has the tire machine. Great! So this is the plan... We're going to strap both wheels, and new tires on the back of a 125cc bike and the mechanic will take it to the tire shop... I'm like, how about we take that spacer out of the back wheel so we don't loose it on the highway somewhere?..

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    And after a few attempts to strap everything on, and precariously at that, he's off... and I'm thinking will I ever see my wheels and tires again? But it's not like he's going to sell them and take the money and run off to ... Mexico. I'm just hoping they don't fall off and some truck runs them over...

    So, it's about noon, I go buy a bag of Totopos, and sit my butt down to wait... :twitch:lurk

    And shortly after the whole bag is gone... got my 85% of daily recommended saturated fat... he's back! The tires look seated right, they're in the right direction, rims are not scratched... aaaaallright, now we're getting somewhere. Hopefully they're still holding air tomorrow. I'm not even going to ask if they're balanced, cause at this point that would clearly be pushing the boundaries of tire installation technology known to man... I'll deal with that some other time, myself...

    Then he's installing the tires and the axle clamp and bolts... and he want to put the clamp on with the arrow pointing down. Ah.. no.. the arrow needs to point up. Gracias. Had to help rock the bike a bit because the new tires are taller.

    Then the guy is messing with my clutch, adjusting the free play, I'm like, I have big hands I like the clutch where it is. No, he wants to pull the cable out so he can lubricate it... Oh, ok, so you need to disconnect it down at the clutch basked to get enough slack... but no, instead the two of them go at the cable with a pair of pliers and I can't look! When he's done I give him a hand by pressing on the lever down at the basket so he doesn't have to be tugging at it with pliers to put it back in! The clutch does feel smoother though... good lube.

    I also give him a hand lining up the rear tire and axle... He also tops off my rear master cylinder and lubes the chain... alright... Gracias. I also look at the oil level. Perfect. I'll take the rest of that quart of Yamaha racing 10-40... We are done! Only four and a half hours and $2700 pesos later.. $125 US...

    I go ride off and notice my brakes are a little weak, probably because he didn't wipe the rotors off after getting his greasy hands all over them... So, I get home, loosen and torque the front axle and clamp bolts (7 ft-lb and he's cranking on them... :doh), clean off the front pads and rotor, take the rear wheel off to clean the rear pads and rotor... and seven hours from the time it all started, it's really done!... And I'm thinking, I need to open a motorcycle shop here that knows what they are doing!... With a tire changing and balancing machine from Harbor Freight tools!

    I did keep my cool through the whole thing though ... :patch

    The things we take for granted... that a motorcycle service department will be able to change a tire...
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  10. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Few days back... in two days that hand will be in a cast... bummer...

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    And this was from the other day... Wave diving!:



    Went to the beach again today... yeah, it's a rough job but someone has to do it... It was pretty empty. Surf was wild. Could barely stand in the water. Waves coming from every direction. Me and the boarders were the only one's going out any distance. Heavy waves dragged up all sorts of seaweed.

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    After getting tossed around sufficiently and getting my share of rays, figured I'd go see about some wheel weights so I can balance those new tires. Drove to a couple tire shops. One says no tengo, other says no tengo... but as I'm leaving I spot a whole cart full of wheel weights, mostly the clip on kind, but they had some sticky backed one's too, so I ask the manager about them and he says see the man... so I worked out a deal with the mechanic... two strips of weights for 20 pesos! Yeah, I overpaid but they were worth it. Got to my place, and one wheel at a time, used the axles and my panniers to make a makeshift balancing stand, and proceeded to strip off the old weights, spin, and add the new one's. Worked like a charm! And yeah they needed balancing. I guess when you're tooling along on a 125cc bike at sub 50 miles per hour, like most of the people here, it's not really a problem... or is it? Ignorance is bliss...
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  11. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Welll, back on the road again... making my way back to you babe :robin, with a ... sorry, got carried away.
    From Puerto Morales, straight down to Xul-Ha and then west to Xpujil. 270 miles. It was a loooong day, and not just because of the mileage. If was on and off sun and downpours, so had to stop a couple times to put my rain gear on... and found out that my pants are no longer water proof... Soon as I started moving and the rain starting hitting hard I could just feel it running down my butt, my legs... And this was no drizzle, it was collecting on the pavement. In one low spot must have been a few inches. Didn't realize it until I was plowing through it at 60 mph... yikes... The new tires work in the rain!

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    All just straight, and congested in a few places. Kept the pace up where ever I could, but still took 6.5 hours. What added insult to injury was the bike started stalling again. If I pulled in the clutch and cut the throttle it would just die. It restarted if I kept the revs up. So, now I'm thinking that incident I had weeks back may not have been bad gas. Maybe something is mucking up my idle circuit. So, I turned up the choke and that gave it enough gas at idle that it didn't die. Didn't idle great, but it didn't die. So, now I'm thinking I'm going to have to pull the carb and clean it, but I'm only staying in this town one night. Will I have time, should I just run it with the choke until tomorrow night, where I've got a two night stay planned, probably not a good idea.

    Anyway, got to the place, got myself situated and walked a few blocks to get some dinner.
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    Interesting little town, two miles square would be pushing it, but it's got a few restaurants on the main strip, one open 24 hours with a hotel. Streets are wide, relatively clean, seems to be a lot of construction going on. People mulling around. It's got potential.

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    The Kalakmul restaurant made me a dish of rice and veggies, and a stack of hot corn tortillas... Bien!

    Over dinner I though about it, and figured I'll have about two hours before sunset... so...
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    I like how in the manual, they give you instructions to remove that airbox assuming the engine in not in the frame... Yeah, that helped. But between the manual and some observation, got the airbox and the carb pulled... Then couldn't get this float bowl screw out for nothing!

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    Just screwdriver, no way... beating on the screw driver for impact, no way... vise grips on the screw (that got one of them off), the other, no way... finally I used a screwdriver on the side of the screw and whacked it with a hammer to spin it off... that worked! The screw looks like crap now, still usable but I'll need to replace it. Took out all the jets, sprayed them through, sprayed all the passages through, put it back together, and... she fires up! And idles! Whew... Just as the sun set.

    Man that cold shower felt good...
  12. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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  13. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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  14. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Got up and took a walk to breakfast at 7:00 am... Apparently I was disturbing the wildlife that early in the morning...

    Hey! Why are you walking though my bedroom when I'm trying to sleep in the street here?...
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    I ain't moving... go around... grrrrrrr..... but I suppose it's more like No me estoy moviendo... andar... grrrrrr...
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    I quack don't quack like quack the quack looks quack of quack this quack gringo...
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    After breakfast, got my self packed up again and headed out. Made my way from Xpujil to just north of Villahermosa. Pretty much a straight shot. The weather was nice until about noon... partly cloudy, 80's. Then it just kept getting hotter and hotter. Last three hours were rough. Just melting... If I stopped in the sun it was like being in an oven... stopped a few times in shady spots to wet my t-shirt and stay hydrated.

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    My digs for the night turned out to have bars... imagine that... but also a guarded/gated community, so I think I'm safe.
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    The place has some things missing... like a working stove, nothing to cook in, nothing to eat with, no table and no chairs... but it does have cold air and a shower. I tell the owner, he sends over his brother, sister in law?, and mother, and they bring me food (spaghetti with cheese and hot dog??? and some chicken potato stew.. A for effort), all the kitchen stuff, drinking water and a tank of gas for the stove.. So, now it's more like a bachelor pad... Still no table or chairs...

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    Home is where the jacket, bags, and helmet reside...
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  15. Veselko

    Veselko Adventurer Supporter

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    Sat on the kitchen counter this morning, just looking out the window...
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    All we have is today. Now. All the travels are passing away like a dream, like you kind of know what happened, but the details are fuzzy. The miles on the odometer, the photos, and the fading memories are all there is. Same for life. Over half a century on this planet (I'm going to assume there's others) so far, and there's just faded or fading memories. My journals, my photos, my kids and grandkids are the indicators that something happened along the way. And of course none of those are long lasting either... especially the public photos... they last only as long as I pay my internet service provider bill...

    Needed to run out, hit the ATM, replenish my food supply, so looked to see what there is for shopping around here. Villahermosa is a pretty big city. Lots of four and six lane roads and everything you need and want. Noticed that there are four Walmarts in town, and a central distribution site... Hmmm... Walmart is taking over the second world. The war to conquer the world today is not fought by armies... those kinds of wars are just remnants of a less civilized world, though I'm sure they will be around for a while yet... the war for the world is fought in the boardrooms of the corporations. Fighting for the dollars of the consumer. Cookies, doughnuts, chips, pop, cappuccinos, organic, non gmo, apple juice, spotless apples, or shiny techy things. Whatever it takes, uncle Wally wants you to joint the battle for your country, he's fighting day and night so we can have what we need and want. You want it? We'll get it for you. And we'll be slashing prices! That's a lot of power that we as consumers yield. Though I probably don't consume as much as a good consumer should.

    Anyway, Wally has everything, but he doesn't have fresh corn tortillas... those you have to go hunt for, off the four lane highway, though not very far... where horses still graze along the road...

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    Couple miles of that, a rickety bridge, and I'm on a single track back in time, on what looks like it could be the downtown of a small Mexican town 50 years ago. My reward? A small place where a lady and her little daughter are selling steaming hot fresh corn tortillas... beautiful, nutritious, non-gmo (hopefully), and delicious... The simple pleasures of life...

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    How long before the family owned tortillarias are all gone and all you can get is the bag from Walmart...
    ****Warning, processed food rant ****
    It takes time to make tortillas the old fashioned way, and who's got the time anymore? Have to get moving. Time is money! Isn't it? ... store tortillas are colored because we don't like inconsistent food colors, preserved because it has to sit on the shelf and be shipped, with "aceite vegetal y canola" cause... I don't know... and "sal yodada"... making you think iodized salt is good for you when it's just chemical with the wrong kind of iodine added... why do we even need iodine added? It's in our foods naturally, isn't it? No, because it gets stripped out during processing, leaving foods that don't satisfy us nutritionally. So, we add back chemicals to try and make up for the natural stuff we took out. But, you can't. It's not the same.

    Oringally it wasn't intentional... just ignorance... trying to satisfy the food needs of a constantly increasing population. It's amazing that they can do it. But now we know. Not ignorant any more. So, now what? How do we fix what we broke and what is ingrained in the system... money talks, corporations listen... But Mexico is still fresh, they don't care about non gmo and organic. Anything can be sold here if you advertise it well.
    ************ end rant ****** as you were...

    Oh, yeah, had to fill my bike with another 12 liters of gasoline... technology is good... forget what I said about the tortillas... :ricky
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