Ves ATW

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Veselko, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    Hi, enjoying the ride report, up to the bit about the bugs or sandflies that bit you. Nasty. :kurt

    Do you know the ass's name is Eeyore from Winne the Pooh created by A A Milne? Not sure if he would like being called "my ass". :lol3
  2. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Don't remind me... :doh That was terrible.

    Yeah, Eeyore is sitting out the rest of the journey in a box... Had to downsize... Lol
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  3. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    They grow some big cactus down in Southern Arizona and Northern Sonora!
    Took an short hike through Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.
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    That's about 8 miles from the Mexico border in Arizona. And figured that it was time to pull the bike off the MOTOW and ride through the border. Given that I only had about 6" of ground clearance while towing it, and knowing that Mexico has those speed bumps (topos) everywhere, the towing was over for now, unless I lift the rear of the Subaru.

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    Well, the border at Sonoyta was not much of an issue, at first. Jabbering back and fourth with the guy giving us our tourist cards went on for a while. But the Banjercito was about 17 miles down the road, so on we went. It was in the 40's and started raining, so put on the full rain gear, turned on the heated grips and heated vest, and we went on our way; me on the bike, honey in the Subaru. Took hours to get the Temporary Import for the Car, because it's a Colorado salvage car, and Colorado gives you a title with a Colorado assigned IDCO instead of the Vin number, and the car actually has two VIN numbers (cause it was pieced together), but people want the VIN number, they don't want some IDCO, so it took conversations, phone calls, looking through manuals, talking to three different guys, taking pictures, and so on. By the time it all got sorted out it was dark already and we were still two hours from our destination... So, riding in the dark, in the cold on unfamiliar roads... sketchy. At one point there was a construction site, where basically part of the highway was missing... just a mess... literally craters, washboard, mud... and sharing it with semi's. Luckily it was only a quarter mile or so, or it wold have been even a longer night. Finally made it to our destination at 8:30... File that under "don't ever do that again!". Next border, get there early, and leave plenty of time!

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  4. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Took a walk around parts of Caborca and came across this. It's a depository for bottle caps, because apparently caps are not generally recycled when plastic bottles are. What do you do with all these caps?
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    You stick them to walls to make murals pointing out the need to stop polluting the world... pretty cool..

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    This morning in no hurry to head for our next destination. Struck up a conversation with a young Mexican guy that had the room next to ours. He's been riding for three days shooting to get across Mexico, on his 200cc bike, all loaded up with gear. Said it was cold. I bet, hitting low 40's at night, and he came in late. Even with heated gear and heated grips I was getting cold the night before. We said our goodbye's and honey and I took off. Brisk morning, still needed the heated vest and grips to stay warm.

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    Not much going on here, four lane split highway... snooooooz...

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    Some three hours later we got to our next destination and what was supposed to be our Air B&B for the night. But I got a message from the guy saying, sorry I don't own that property any more... great. So, we looked up some hotels for the night... And here's what $18 dollars gets you in Mexico... A two story with a garage on the bottom, big enough for the car and bike and room to spare, and a room with a king size bed on the second level... S-weeeeeet... Made some phone calls, made dinner, and plans for the next few days...

    And yeah, that's a line drawing of a naked woman on the shower with the see through glass and blue light... Ha!
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  5. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Climbed up on the roof of the place we were staying in Hermosillo.
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    While down below someone way laying on the deck doing her nails... Yeah, it was a rough couple days...
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    Well, the bottle caps recycling is a step in the right direction, but still got a ways to go to get things cleaned up...
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    Took off from Hermosillo this morning for San Carlos, which is just far enough from Guaymas (which is the more popular spot) to be not near a big city...

    Yeah, not much going on on the way there. More four lane highway, though brand new and grooved concrete; 15 headed south.

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    Got their early and got checked in. Girl at the counter speaks poco Ingles, and I speak poco Espanol, so checkin was smooth and easy.

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    Got our stuff in the room... Nice view from the sliding glass back door, with a path to the pool... and all for less than a Motel 6 in the USA.

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    Took off and headed for the beaches, which are just across the street from the hotel. Walked around a bit and got the flavor. Yup, that's a lot of beach, and practically empty. There were quite a few people making a ruckus in one of the grass roofed restaurants. Feliz Nuevo Ano!

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    Tons of shells everywhere, about 70 degrees, with a steady West breeze, waves lapping at the shore. Yup, it's going to be rough here for a few days!
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    There's also a small Canyon just North of us, so will do a hike to check that out, and see what else we can turn up around here.

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  6. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Got up before dawn to try and catch the sunrise, but the clouds hid it on us..

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    Took the main road out West to see where it would take us. Came to a Mirador with a really nice view.
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    Hiked down the hill into the bay area, wandered around and climbed some of the rocks along the edges...
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    Took the road all the way to the end. Ends in a dirt road leading to a tiny poor town, where they're obviously trying to attract tourists, not sure they're having much success..

    Bought some groceries at a couple of the food stores in town, got back to the hotel and ordered lunch from Arbolitos De Cajeme Restaurant... Deep fried fish... they make cuts in the fish on a crosshatch pattern, on both sides, then dunk it in oil, so that you get chunks that are fried crispy on five sides and are flaky in the center... with some rice, a stack of tortillas, a little salad, some sauces...

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    Went and took in some sun at the pool, then took another walk on the beach... Yeah, rough day... I think I broke a sweat climbing that hillside...

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  7. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Napula Canyon. A very busy three kilometer hike; about one hour in, one hour out. You feel like you're in another world. And for those who really want the full adventure, they also have zip lines there. There are at least 6 or seven lines across the canyon, but to get to them you have to climb ladders, suspended bridges, repel on ropes, and climb up rock faces. Didn't do that. Just did the hike in and out. During the rainier season there is a waterfall and swimming holes. Couldn't really take enough pictures, and it's hard to relay the scale.

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    These palm trees are huge. About four to five feet across with the dried palms. And just couldn't get the height in the photo.
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    You can see one of the zip lines here, but if you look really close, you can see a couple people on the face of the cliff... Hard to see. The place is huge.
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    And later at the hotel, sitting by the pool, after lunch and nap, I got the blessing from a local bee. Just one of those shots...

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  8. RedDogAlberta

    RedDogAlberta High Plains Drifter

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    RE: Rugs and baskets. I always walked by this ritzy shop in Jasper, Alberta that sold soapstone carvings from the Inuit in the Arctic (things like polar bears, etc.). I walked in there one time out of curiosity and they ranged from $3 or $4K to $25K. I was stunned and asked if they sold many. The gal told me the tour buses of Japanese pull up and they'll sell 3 or 4 that day.

    I've always wondered what the Inuit creators are paid for their art.
  9. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    I was wondering that myself! This place seemed like it was all native run, so guessing it was all in the family. I would hope so anyway.
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  10. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Been a relatively uneventful couple days. 1/5 stayed with a really nice lady in Obregon. We practiced our Spanish, she practiced her English. Just outstanding hospitality. The night we came she gave us some fresh eggs for dinner, as in from a chicken at a friends house across the street... also taught us how to make stove top bread, though it ended up being more like a pie cause we went overboard with the apples, but there wasn't a crumb left! Her dogs were too funny, one looked like a sheered sheep and the other looked like a person with blond hair that parted in the center of her head. When we were leaving this morning she gave us some oranges for the road, picked fresh off a tree the other day. She also knows a guy by the name of Robert; rogueadventures.com who's been doing some world travel. Anyone on here?

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    Little one was begging for more tortilla.

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    Found a tortillaria this morning, hot a and steaming tortillas, so I was in heaven.

    Got moving about noon today. Just four lane highway to Los Mochis. Put the bike on the hitch again and burned up the miles.

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    Found this little guy scrounging on the side of the road when we stopped to take a break. Tossed him some tortilla but he wasn't interested. Too bad, you could see his ribs. Not much to him.

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    Made it to our destination after the GPS took us for a ride. "We're here." "I don't see you. Sometimes the GPS takes people to the wrong place." Yeah, figured that out after talking to a few people and asking wafakawe...

    Was also a somber day. Saw a couple hairy accidents. One car in a ditch all accordioned nose first, no glass, airbags deployed. Another one with a couple guy who were on a motorcycle being tended to while lying in the street. Not good. Had a close call myself, blew right through a stop sign and it wasn't a four way. Couple seconds later and it could have been all over... shit... focus.. focus... focus... yeah, the sign was hidden and yeah we're looking for where we need to go... but damn... as it was, I got away with a horn blowing... Whew.

    Safely behind bars again, for a couple nights at least, maybe longer if we like the place. Going to check out the beaches tomorrow, and see what else is around here. Los Mochis is a big town, fairly well organized... still has some really crappy streets though; typical Mexico. But it does have a couple Walmarts, a McDonalds, and a Burger King, so it's getting fully Americanized!

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  11. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Spent the day today going to a local a-burr-eat-em (though there wasn't really any food there so not sure what the eat part has to do with it... ) also know as the Jardin Botanico and after that went down to the El Maviri beach, which is about 30 minutes out of town. The day was high 70's, sunny, and breezy... another rough one...

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    This guy was a good three feet long.

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    iguanas, turtles, ducks, geese, butterflies, tropical plants, all sorts of cacti varieties...
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    Good way to raise awareness regarding bottle disposal.. make a trash can out of bottles..
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    And here we have the lovely Vanah modeling the 7 foot wide tree...

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    And then, for a little break... mostly very fine sand, feels like mud between your toes when you walk out into the water. It was like that in both directions, hardly a soul...

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    You can walk out like 50 yards and still not be in the water to your waist...
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    Did nada... laid in the sun, dug a hole, pretended to make a sand castle, bought a bag of peanuts from an old Mexican lady and threw shells at the sea gulls while we munched the good parts.

    While the slight breeze blew sand over our towels and nearly made them disappear...
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    Yup, another rough day... Back on the road again tomorrow.

    I'm kind of liking this traveling with the honey thing. Slowing me down a bit; smell more of the roses along the way...
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  12. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Ok, where was I... Yeah, we stayed two nights in Mochis and moved on to Culiacan. 1/8 Took route 15 down instead of 15D (the four laner), so got to see a little scenery, some farmland, some curves. Nice break. There really aren't many options along the west coast as far as roads go.

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    Had some trouble finding our Airbb for the night, but worked through it (yeah, first world problems in the third world). Turned out to be a four apartment building, and by the end of the night the whole family was there getting stuff done. We were officially the first guests in this place. They built it just to rent out. Everything new and a large enclosed parking area. Hostess spoke pretty good English and had both of her kids with her, who spoke good English. Later the father came to fix the garage/yard door while the kids fixed our wi-fi... hospitality! ... or debugging... hostess was all excited they had electricity... good plan...

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    After we got our stuff unloaded, we walked a few blocks to get some groceries. There are some big hills in this town... took a picture of one of the roads peak to peak... it was steep walking, like steeper than some of the Colorado mountains.
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    By the time we got back it was almost sunset so went up to the rooftop and got a view.

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    Today I spent the whole morning doing maintenance on the bike. That fancy fuel filter I had on the bike was leaking the other day, so had to take it off. Checked it today and the rubber seal got hard (cheap ass rubber), checked the valves (they were right on), and turns out after about 16,000 miles my chain was worn out, so had to replace it and the sprockets; had spares with me. The chain tool I had wasn't the greatest and I don't like the swage job it did on the master link, but I'll see how it goes, if I notice anything going weird I'll just go to a dealer and have them put a new master in it. Speaking of dealers, there was a Suzuki dealer in town so got a couple of iridium spark plugs, so won't have to change those again for a while. Took it for a test drive and the chain didn't fall off! :clap Maybe I should raise my standards... :hmmmmm

    Well, no beaches around here and the one an hour away you can't swim in cause it's got bugs like e-coli, stuff that causes pink eye, swimmers ear, and other assorted niceties... So, found another arboretum after lunch and walked around.

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    These trees are just freaky. They let out roots from branches, and when they hit ground, they root and become a new trunk. They will wrap them selves around themselves or even other trees.

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    Some pretty cool banzai trees too...
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    And that's a wrap... back on the road tomorrow.
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  13. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    I forgot to mention. Honey almost got shafted at a PEMEX gas station. First the guy tells her they only accept Mexican credit cards, which is BS because they either accept credit or not, but she didn't have the cash so I give her two 500 peso bills. She comes back with two 50's and says, it's not enough?? In other words this guy slips in two 50's to replace the 500's... I'm like wtf... I walk over there and "work it out" to get proper change. I wonder how much of this kind of stuff they pull with tourists, or especially foreign women? Takes a lot of frikin nerve to try and steal money from someone that's in your country supporting your economy... Yeah, that's how to keep them coming back. Of course I'm sure he's not concerned about any economy but his own, nor being an ambassador for his country.
  14. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    The road to Mazatlan... the most important thing... the newly installed chain didn't fall off! Also the bike had a 14 tooth front sprocket, the one I installed is a stock 15 tooth. Now it's a little easier going faster... Took route 15 again, the road less traveled. Not bad, just enough curves going through some high hills / low mountains, and some small towns, to keep it interesting, and use up some of my side rubber. Honey bought some corn on the cob from a roadside seller, so took a corn break a little while after.

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    Got to Mazatlan and the traffic was just clog city. But it was familiar from this summer; the first West Coast city I visited.

    Made it to our digs. Basically six days in a small condo with full kitchen, a block from the beach, for less than one nights hotel room in the US. Gots to love it! And they use bars and spikes in their decor...

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    Got our stuff unloaded, had a quick dinner, and took a walk down to the beach and down the strip. Talk about a lot of stores selling a lot of crap... Alart!: Major Tourist Trap... Hey, you want to be a guest for our 90 minute presentation, then we'll give you a free cruise? Yeah... we'll let you know. Then there was the "Beer Boutique" store... didn't even ask. Everything from hand painted sinks to blow up floatties for the kiddies. Did see a place where you can get breakfast to $2.50 US. Cars, noise, lights, tight sidewalks with merchandise intruding on your space.

    The beach side of the strip is all "All Inclusives" far as the eye can see. There was a stiff breeze on the beach, though nice and balmy. The weather will be in the 80's for the next few days.

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    Saw a t-shirt that said: Relax, you're on the fun side of the Wall. :photog
    and another one about a Trump sandwich, Lots of bull, with Russian dressing, and a small pickle... :jack
    Even a "Trump 2020" license plate... good to see they have a sense of humor about it.
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  15. roadcapDen

    roadcapDen Ass, Grass or Gas, no free rides.

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    Love it, thanks!
  16. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    I know, right?

    Today, I think we set a new record... three beaches in one day. Went to Playa Cerritos, but the tide was so high there was no beach. So went further north and found a massive empty expanse. That will do...

    Pelicans flying in formation...
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    When it looked like the tide was low enough, headed back to Cerritos. Walked the rocks and enjoyed the captive pools which had some small fish and crab roaming around.

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    Then back to the main strip, and Playa Brujas.
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    Yeah, it looks like a postcard, but it's just too commercial for me... certainly makes the spread between rich and poor more readily apparent. I would say there's no less All Inclusives here than there are in Cancun. But the water here is murky because the sand is brown and very fine, so makes it look muddy when it's not.

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  17. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Went over to the Fero Lighthouse (visited there this summer) to do the hike again.

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    The place has gone to the cats...

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    It's about a 30-40 minute hike with about 350 steps. Climb is about 500 vertical feet total.

    Just below the lighthouse is a peer/barrier to protect the port. From 500 ft up it looked like a gravel road. Part of it is, but most of it is these huge boulders and concrete shapes. So we went bouldering.

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    and at the end there's nothing but a small tower, with razor wire and vultures...

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    After getting back we went to the beach and rented a small catamaran for an hour (honey's a skipper) and sailed along shore.

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    Rooftop view back at the domicile...
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  18. Drybones

    Drybones Fish bones are on my truck seat cover, too

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    Looks like a Hobie 16 catamaran that you rented. And you saw both types of large concrete structures used for breakwaters. The smooth ones are Tetrapods and the faceted ones are called Dolosse.
  19. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Gracias para la informaciĆ³n!
  20. Veselko

    Veselko Been here awhile Supporter

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    Lazy days in Mazatlan. Walked the beach some more, swam, made Nopales cactus for the first time. Taste kind of like green beans, and the liquid behaves kind of like okra; strings liquid when you pick it up. Played bocci ball on the beach with a couple that resides in the building we were staying in. Stopped up for some chips, nuts, and wine after dinner. Interesting couple, been all over the world in their 70+ years. Currently reside in Canada during warm season and Mazatlan in the winter.

    Today we said our goodbyes and took the road to Acaponeta for the night, a small town half way between Mazatlan and Tepic, on 15. Stopped along the way to buy some roadside shrimp tamales from a lady and her daughter. Two big shrimp in each one, shell, legs, eyes, antlers and all (is that what shrink have, antlers?). Put a little lime on it, spit out the unwanted bits and delicious. But there is something about biting into it and seeing two eyes staring back at you...

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    Got to the hotel and it was like stepping back a century. Sure, you can pull the motorcycle right through the lobby to the courtyard... works for me.
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    Big blue fabric closes off the opening in the courtyard, giving everything a blue color while the sun is shining.

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    The room is small, has a bathroom where the toilet, sink, and shower share the same space, no curtain just a drain on the floor, and literally has 15-18 foot ceilings...
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    Photo on the wall...

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    The church next door, from the balcony.

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    Went for a walk through parts of town...

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    Scored big with some fresh vegetables and apples without stickers on them... yum...

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    The central square from the balcony of the hotel...
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    View from the room...

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    Honey by the water fountain...

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    There's all sorts of sounds coming through the window. People mulling around the square, car and motorcycle exhaust fading, street vendors selling their wares, kids yelling and playing... It's alive! There's even a pretty nice restaurant next door. These are the kind of towns a like. Big enough to have a decent economic base, but small enough to be personal. But, moving on tomorrow.
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