Vienna to Magadan - BAM Road and Road of Bones

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Xdream, Sep 24, 2011.

  1. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Do we have any betting going on already? Just curious :1drink
    #81
  2. RDT953

    RDT953 Been here awhile

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    :clap
    #82
  3. RussianBear

    RussianBear Guest

    Xdeam, brilliant!
    you did everything you were told not to do :D, crossing the border to Belarus at about midnight, awesome :rofl

    pulling over to Russian policemen :eek1, gas stations :freaky

    i am from Belarus originally, have to say: you are right on the money!
    #83
  4. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Day 6 Omsk - Novosibirsk

    morning toilet

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    aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh hmmmpf

    done - lets go!

    horse power

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    another day on the long and flat roads. traffic got more, but not a problem at all. it started to rain in the late morning and we stopped to get our rain gear on. I mean, Yuri did get his raingear on. Did I mention that i did not bring raingear? That was because I did not have anymore space for that in my luggage. :shog My Motorcycle cloth were waterproof for a certain amount of time of course. (this amount of time was like the afternoon of my first day :ear ) I don´t complain, but it could have been more comfortable.

    Anyhow, we stopped in the middle of nowhere on the roadside.
    3 germans showed up travelling the other side and coming from Mongolia
    5 minutes later 1 austrian showed up travelling the other side and coming from Mongolia
    another 5 minutes later 1 american showed up going to the "stan" countries with a 1150GS with a broken frame
    3 russians showed up going to Vladivostok

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    We stood there for nearly an hour and at times there were 20 motorcyclist on the roadside. I did not see many motorcyclists before and I did not see many after that. That was such a special place right in the middle of nowhere.

    Some nice russian Mosquitos on the head of the Austrian guy.

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    We reached Novosibirsk in the late afternoon. It was still raining, but we decided to drive through the city and stop at a roadside hotel somewhere after Novosibirsk. But there was no roadside hotel.

    It got dark, thunderstorms began, thunder, lightning, rain, wind. everything you don´t want on a Motorcycle. We came to a small guesthouse, but they did not have anything we could stay in. We continued. It was after 10PM when we found a small house along the road where we could store our bikes in a garage and had a room to sleep.

    Yuri asked for the room and I was taking care of the bikes.

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    Yuri came to the Garage where I took care of the bikes. Then he said: "They have room for XX Rubel" and seemed quite happy. I asked, if they have shower in the romm. He answered "no, it´s a shared shower in the basement". And I said. "Well, then I don´t want to stay here, lets go back to Novosibirsk and search for something else. (100km back at 10 PM in heavy thunderstorm)

    He did not look very happy - did he? :D

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    :rofl It was soooo funny to see his face.

    A guy from poland also stayed there, but he was in bed already and he was not up, when we left the next day. So don´t know anything about him.

    6000 km so far. Tomorrow we try to reach Krasnojarsk, which is just 750km away. But the weather forecast was even worse than today.
    #84
  5. Steveman

    Steveman Been here awhile

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    Hi Ixi,

    love the shot of Yuris mug! hahaha.... :D

    Cheers
    Steve
    #85
  6. dnapekko

    dnapekko n00b

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    This sounds great trip. Was it difficult to get Belarus-visa? I have heard, that they require hotel booking for all nights, an you obviously did not have any. I plan a Finland-Poland-Belarus-Russia-Finland trip next summer, and visa-regulations look... interesting.
    #86
  7. selkins

    selkins Gotta light?

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    Loving this report, even if it is the boring bits of the trip!
    #87
  8. kopeli

    kopeli moto-traveler

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    What a great adventure,congratulations dear XDREAM,

    keep on [​IMG]
    #88
  9. Gripforce

    Gripforce Ski Bum

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    Subscibed!!! Well done!!!
    #89
  10. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    I only had a transit Visa for 48 hours and this was really easy to get. Don´t know how difficult a longer visa would be. But you definitely need also a Hotel Voucher for applying the Visa. (like Russia) Maybe a "fake" voucher is enough here too, because I heard of people travelling through belarus and just camping.(there are no real campgrounds after all)
    #90
  11. AlpineGuerrilla

    AlpineGuerrilla Been here awhile

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    I don't get the hotel reservation stuff either. On my trip to Russia this year, I had a reservation in St. Petersburg for the second night. They did make my registration, but they said it's only valid for that day/night, and I have to get another one for each day - thus staying only in hotels. I of course didn't do that.
    They didn't give me any voucher or anything to prove the registration though. And the border controls in Murmansk didn't care or ask about the voucher. But I did find out, that the fine for not being registered is 50€ at the border. Still a lot less expensive than sleeping in hotels all the way through. :lol3
    #91
  12. MR Q 0577

    MR Q 0577 n00b

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    This is Brilliant XDream keep it up. Really enjoying this:D
    #92
  13. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Thanks!

    Also for all the other comments in this thread. So I know at least someone´s reading:freaky
    #93
  14. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Day 7 Novosibirsk - Krasnojarsk

    The morning of day 7 started as lousy als day 6 ended. It was raining. At least the thunderstorms were gone. The cloth did not dry from last day, they were still soaking wet. So we get into the wet socks and shoes and gloves and *brrrrr*. After a hearty breakfast we decided to hit the road to Krasnojarsk. This was only 750km today.

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    During breakfast Yuri was talking about the next step of the route to Irkutsk south of Lake Baikal. This was the time when I had to tell him, that I want continue on my own from Krasnojarsk again. It was nice riding with him and he teached me lots of typical russian things that made life easyer, some more phrases, I learned to know some more different meals. But his pace was quite against my personal riding rhythm and I prefer to ride alone again. And I told him that I will take the BAM road north of Lake Baikal.

    He replied: "This in not possible"
    I said: "yes it is."
    Yuri: "no, there is no real road, and there are rivers, and you might use railroad bridges"
    me: "i know, thats why I want to go there"
    Yuri: "it´s not possible"
    me: "I have read of 3 guys (walters report) who did it"
    Yuri: "yes, but they were 3 guys with lots of experience, you are on you´r own"
    me: "I heard of one person doeing it solo (the rumors of the "red" motorcycle in walters report)"
    Yuri: "yes, but this was a russian guy who speaks the language and he was on a light motocross"

    Every time we stopped, everytime we had to get gas, everytime I stopped for pictures he tried to tell me, that the BAM road is not possible. He did not want to let me go. He was really worried about me and took every chance to talk me into going with him to the south.

    The region where we were right now is famous for coal mining. This is all around the city of Kemerovo. If you are unhappy with you job, imagine living and working here. This is not a nice place indeed. Average live span is about 55 years or so.

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    On the road we met a couple going to Novosibirk for a big biker meeting. They were riding on that Hayabusa. Next time I travel through Russia I will take a Hayabusa without licence plate too. I can make it through Russia in 14 days, fly from Vladivostok to Seattle and make it in 5 days to New York. RTW in 3 weeks - sounds cool - but I guess no fun at all. So I´m gonna skip that idea for now.

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    I knew you want a closeup of the Hayabusa - ah sorry, this is a biker forum, so we need a closeup of the chick. Here it is

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    Again some graveyards along the road. I can´t help, but I liked those graveyards in the middle of nowhere in the trees.

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    A stop along the road.

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    The good thing with the rain is, when it stop´s there is a rainbow :1drink

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    I did not really exactly plan my trip. It was more like: "lets see how far I can get". But of course I had kind of a goal that I wanted to reach. The first goal was to reach Krasnojarsk within 8 days, get new energy there for the challenges ahead and do a bike inspection and maybe an oil change.

    After 7 days on the road, I finally made it to Krasnoyarsk.

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    A bit less than 7.000 km and 1 day earlyer than expected. I was happy that everything went that smooth. I did not have major problems. The only thing that broke so far was my gas tank cap on the main tank and I fixed it with duct tape.

    Here is a Video of my trip from Vienna to Krasnojarsk. You see how the roads look like. You see landscape (how it does NOT change for 7.000 km). You see the traffic and you see the rainy days. Not too much action though, but might still be interesting for some of you.

    Video Part 1

    #94
  15. Mukaltin

    Mukaltin Adventurer

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    [​IMG]
    Greetings from Russian guys on motorcycles of Austria, is very interesting to see our route through the eyes of a foreigner
    #95
  16. Mukaltin

    Mukaltin Adventurer

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    [​IMG]
    #96
  17. Tomdog

    Tomdog Mapaholic

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    I'm watching :lurk
    Very enjoyable RR so far. Thank you
    #97
  18. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

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    Awesome X Dream:clap:clap:clap Like a poor man's guide to the BAM:lol3 Oh and next time you come through Oklahoma let me help you find the good roads, twice I've read about only flat and boring Oklahoma:huh I'll show you the good stuff.



    Keep up the excellent reporting. I know what you mean about running the three tanks on the bmw, I get craziest looks at all the stations in Latin America:roflThat can't believe it. I can just picture you trying to explain it to the Russian gas attandant:lol3

    I hope you didn't let you 'bmb' crap out on you. Looking forward to the rest of this great ride:ear:lurk
    #98
  19. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Hey Mukaltin!
    Thanks for the pictures :clap

    A few more comments of a foreigner:
    - Russians were much more friendly and helpful than I excpected
    - villages and cities were cleaner than expected (not much garbage)
    - people spoke less english than expected
    - roads were better than expected

    So overall a very very positive experience so far
    #99
  20. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Thanks for your comment Throttlemeister!

    If you are from Oklahoma, please don´t take my comments too negative. I have an "Oklahoma trauma" that I maybe have to explain.

    Some years ago I attended at a Race called "Race Across America". This is on Bicycles. This is something like a Motorbike, but without motor :evil :D The race goes from the Westcoast to the Eascoast of America. It´s around 5.000 km (i did it in 11 days and took 13th place). You maybe could imagine, that riding through Oklahoma on a bike where you do 500 miles a day on a completely straight road is not as entertaining as you wish it would be.

    I am not talking negative about Oklahoma, sorry if this was misunderstood. Riding through Russia during the first part of my trip just reminded me so much on the part through Oklahoma that I really had to mention it here. It also was for some comparsion to let you have an idea how BIG this Country is. It took me one and a half day through the flatlands of America on my bicycle and it took me 6 days from Belarus to Krasnojarsk (whis is landscapewise) comparable to those flats in America. It´s just soooooo much bigger than everything you can imagine.

    (And before some Russians complain now - I know there are some great twisty backroads too on the way to Krasnojarsk, especially in the Ural wich I found supernice even in rain and with heavy traffic)

    Some pictures of Oklahoma on my Bicycle. maybe you understand now why I am comparing.
    Landscape, Road conditions, Thunderstorms, Tornados, big sky country - just the same

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