Vienna to Magadan - BAM Road and Road of Bones

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Xdream, Sep 24, 2011.

  1. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    120
    Location:
    Austria
    Thats exactly what I wanted it to be :thumb
  2. Mukaltin

    Mukaltin Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Moskau RUS
    http://photo.qip.ru/users/motoadventure/96608922/all/

    Hi Hans, Here you can take a photo for your story, it saw one of our Cameras :freaky
    there is a button at the bottom to show more (показать еще фото)
  3. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    120
    Location:
    Austria
    Krasnojarsk

    Krasnojarsk deserves it´s own Chapter :D

    We arrived Krasnojarsk in the afternoon of day 7. We stopped in front of a hotel in the center which I had marked in my Garmin. I was staying with the bikes while Yuri went inside and asked for rates.

    I was looking at the beautiful women all around and one of them came up to me and asked (in russian) if I would like to stay at her appartement overnight. I am not used to nice women approaching me and ask if I want to stay at their appartement so I was like: :eek1:clap:freaky:ear

    I was kind of stunned, but kept talking to her. Yuri appeared and said, the hotel is too expensive. I replied that I found an alternative :rofl

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    Yuri talked to her a bit and we decided to take her offer. She was also a motorcycle enthusiast and Yuri thought it´s OK to take the offer. I was also excited to get some more insight in the daily life of the russians.

    So we went to their appartement:

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    we got meatsoup for dinner, tee and beer.

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    this was their daughter, she learns some german in school and it was funny sitting together with her - me with my russian dictionary, and she with her german dictionary. That was supernice.

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    this was the brother. I had to laugh all the time. He never had a shirt on. And he showed me his training-room with old, rusty weights and stuff. Too bad i did not take a picture.

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    They told me, they have about 20 animals in their small appartement. They showed me everyone. Rabbits, Snakes, Lizards, Mice...

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    But I liked the sibirian cat most

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    I also think the whole family and friends appeared that night to see the "crazy austrian". Her Grandmother told me she is watching the "Vienna New Years concert" every year on TV.

    Also the president of the local motorcycle club "the corsars" appeared. Nobody of them spoke a word of english, but with hands and feet and with some help from Yuri we were talking about daily life in Russia, politics (very interesting, even I am not interested in politics at all) and of course motorcycles. Late at night they showed me pictures of last weeks motorcycle meeting just outside of Krasnojarsk where I also spotted a picture of Doug (RTWDoug). That was superfunny. Long after midnight I went to bed.
  4. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    120
    Location:
    Austria
    :thumb:thumb:thumb

    thanks
  5. MizzouRider

    MizzouRider Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
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    2,870
    Location:
    Fly over zone
    This is great stuff!! Thanks for coming back and finishing.. Can't wait to see the rest.
    :clap:clap

    WW
  6. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,521
    Location:
    Okie near Muskogee

    I see it looks like you found Former Governor Geroge Nigh's Northwest Expressway across the panhandle:rofl

    I've donated more than my fair share of money to the state coffers trying to make fast time out across that long stretch on my way out West. I can almost feel your pain, well not really as I don't care to ride a pedal bike that far, but understand the straight and flat road you took all too well. Hell of a race you road across the States:clap on such a great finish.

    Next time you come over this way, I'll give you a much better tour:deal

    Glad to see you staying after this report. Thanks again so much for sharing about this great part of the World:thumb
  7. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    120
    Location:
    Austria
    The next morning we had breakfast with the family. Last night I mentioned, that I have planned to do an oil change and want to go to "BMW Krasnojarsk" for a quick bike-check.

    I said before that Russians are super friendly and try to help wherever they can. Sometimes it was just too much for me. And they all were so helpful that it was not possible to escape their will to help.

    All that I wanted was a quick oilchange, a short bike inspection and then head onwards. But in the meantime a lot of people were enformed of my stay. The president of the "MC Korsars" was there in the morning to bring me to another friend wo has a garage for doeing the oil change.

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    And there were other people who wanted to show me around town. There were a lot of others too, that told me that I can not do the BAM road, even that i can not get to Bratsk (on the way to lake Baikal). I wanted some time on my own to focus and recap.

    But first the "president" went with me to get some oil.

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    The owner of the bike shop told me, that there were eight russians on the way to do the BAM road. I got very excitet - that means, it´s doable. I also heard that they had an american biker with them. This must be Doug. I checked Dougs SPOT that evening in the Hotel internet and found out that he is in Chita past Lake Baikal to the south. So I was unsure again. Did they all go to the south because BAM was not possible?? Lots of questions?

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    We went crisscross half the city and got to the friends garage. Some other bikers were waiting there too.
    On the way through the city I felt there is something wrong with the backend of my bike. So I even more tried to talk them into bringing me to the BMW garage. Not that I did not appreciate their help. It was great being helped by locals, but I had this wish to go to BMW - I don´t have an idea why. But most of the time my feelings are very good to rely on.

    anyhow, here´s that russian garage

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    I also loved that cosmonaut helmet, and I would have taken it home if I just had some space left :rofl

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    Unfortunately (or fortunately) they did not have the right gear to do the oil change, and as I wanted to go to BMW anyways, I did not really help much but asked them, if they would take me there now.

    I SWEAR!!! I did not know before what awaited me at BMW Krasnojarsk - but this MUST BE the reason why so many adventure travellers decide for a GS to travel around our Globe. The reason is BMW Krasnojarks - for sure - the ultimage Adventure Traveller secret!!

    Why - no explanation necessary, i guess.

    "Hi - how can I help you?"

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    "I need an oil change"

    "ok, my collegue is looking for a mechanic"

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    "hi, i am your personal hostess during the time you have to wait"

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    how to make an adventurer smile

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    and have you ever seen such a great Mini Cooper? I love it!

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    This is the new BMW 5 series. Wonderful, isn´t it?

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    But I loved the BMW 3 coupe the most. What a chassis :eek1

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    Ah yeah - just forgot they also did the oil change there, washed the bike and the found a broken bearing on the rear wheel :freaky During my ride on the BAM I thought a few times how lucky it was that I decided to go to the BMW garage. Not just because of those beatiful women, but if the bearing broke on the BAM this report would be a whole other story.

    the garage

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    the bike shining as new.

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    bye bye

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    ok, as it was late afternoon already, I decided to stay another night in Krasnojarsk, but took a hotel this time. I wanted a good rest and a shower before going to the big adventure that lies ahead of me.

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    Yuri already went on his way to Irkutsk in the afternoon after bringing me to BMW. We hugegd each other and exchanged adress. Hope I will see him again one day in moscow. he is a great guy. Thanks for everything again. First I thought he is a bit angry on me, because I did not want to join him on the ride to Irkutsk, but when we split he said something really big to me.

    "Hans" he said "when I left moscow, I thought I am a tough and adventurous guy, but compared to you I am just feeling like an ordinary person. The enthusiasm you have, paired with no fear of anything and smiling all the time gives mo so much positive spirit!" That was really nice, i had to hig hum. I felt a little bad, because I don´t want anybody to feel ordinary. I also don´t want to make anybodys adventures looking smaller. You should not compare the "size" of adventures. The point is - do you have one, or not? The size is just in your head.

    He did not know that in reality there are two things I fear. One of them is .... water! Which is not the best if you know what lies ahead of me.

    I had some Shashlik and I saw a yellow zebra walking by.

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    I called my wife at home and said. "Sweetheart, everything is going well - i feel like in the middle of a porn movie here!"
    She anwered. "how you know what it looks like in the middle of a porn movie?"
    "ooohm, I ahhh, just imagine! ?"

    As the women here were so georgous, I wanted to go to the night club at the side of my hotel, but they did not let me in, because I only had sport shoes :cry :cry

    In the evening they had a fountain show going on for me. (And I was not able to sleep until 2 am in the morning as they played also loud music in front of my room).

    Tomorrow the real BIG adventure starts. I´m gettin excited.

    [​IMG]
  8. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2002
    Oddometer:
    17,409
    Location:
    日本
    Wish my local bmw shop looked like that, thanks for taking us on your adventure! :clap
  9. RDT953

    RDT953 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2011
    Oddometer:
    293
    Location:
    Kobe Japan
    This is a great RR that you've put together here. I happen to have a BMW F650GS in Japan and have to tell you that the 3 BMW Motorad dealers I've visited do not compare. It's a great read, thanks.:clap
  10. Durden

    Durden Freak!

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    477
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta
    Amazing adventure - I'm really humbled by the experiences you have had Hans, truly inspiring. Its great RR like this that kindle the wunderlust in the rest of us.

    In North America its becoming more and more taboo to hire people into service positions based on looks - funny to see that isn't the case in Russia :) - I love it!

    Thanks for taking us along - keep the posts coming!
  11. Lunatic

    Lunatic Dan Keyhoety

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    617
    Location:
    DOWN ON THE BORDER , LAS CRUCES, NUEVO MEHICO
    I know it's a tough job being around all those beautiful Russian women :evil

    Hang in there :lol3
  12. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,689
    Location:
    The Palace of the People, VT
    I'm seriously considering having all my BMW services done in Krasnoyarsk.
  13. Gripforce

    Gripforce Ski Bum

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2011
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    Whistler, Canada

    Maybe they are 'qualified' :evil
  14. bend27

    bend27 by hook or by crook

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    May 17, 2008
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    1,259
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Keep it coming:clap
  15. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    Location:
    The Palace of the People, VT
    Having been over there, I can tell you their "qualifications" are likely beyond reproach. Master techs, each of 'em.
  16. squonker

    squonker Stupid is the new norm

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    Yellowknife and Norman Wells, NWT
    Fantastik!!

    :lurk
  17. ClayR

    ClayR Animal

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    May 24, 2009
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    Location:
    Great Plains
    Either that is the ugliest Zebra I have ever seen, or Kenny Powers Showed up in Russia!
  18. doring

    doring Aventuros

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    Bucuresti, Romania
    :))) I love your RR, you make me laugh all the time, you are a funny guy. And your story is great too. I think this is my favorite RR from Russia. It looks that crossing Russia is a piece of cake, through your eyes.
    Thanks. I wait for more.
  19. Daz the Aussie

    Daz the Aussie Mistrusts Squirrels

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2008
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    1,353
    Location:
    Californicator
    I am just going to second what everyone else is saying. This is a fantastic ride report. The photos are amazing and your writing style is great. Looking forward to more!
    Oh, and please don't be offended, but can I just add that you bear more than a passing resemblance to Willem Dafoe!


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  20. alexii

    alexii Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    Chuvashia, Russia
    Check this!:deal

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    10 september 2011, Very rainy day near Volga river bridge.