Vienna to Magadan - BAM Road and Road of Bones

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Xdream, Sep 24, 2011.

  1. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    Day 9 Krasnojarsk - somewhere in the middle of f***ing nowhere

    The next morning I started early. Even if I could not get into that night club, i still got my picture. :evil No T-Shirt though.

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    Time for some mapping: Today´s plan was to go to Bratsk.I still was not sure wether I do the BAM Road or go the "safe way" on the south of Lake Baikal through Irkutsk and Chita. On that map you see the BAM road to the north. The small yellow line is the "regular" route to the south of Lake Baikal.
    The red line from Taishet (dot on the left of the map) to Bratsk was unknown to me. I have not heard of anybody doeing it, but the map I had showed a road there.
    the green line from Taiseht to Bratsk supposed to be a somewhat good road, but a much longer trip

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    The direct route to Bratsk was not done by Walter, so I did not know if it was possible or not. But it in his report he mentioned that it should be an "easy ride". I thought I will try along the red road to Bratsk and I get an idea about the road conditions "offroad".

    The weather was still changing a lot and people told me that water levels are extremely high and the weather will not improove. Well, I´ll give it a try.

    The road until Taishet was good. But I still got entertained somehow.

    Ah, now I´m in Russia :-) "Hey dad, we have to repair that axis of our truck." "ok son, just got to get a hammer and some wood and it´l be done by noon"

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    Then I heard some weird noise on the rear of my bike. I checked and found out that the chain adjuster was loose and the bolt got bent. They must have forgotten to tighten it in the garage. So no more chain adjusting :huh

    A while after, I got Gas. I filled up the tanks, got ready to continue and .... hold on - there´s gas spilling out of my tank. Aaaaaaaaaah. I jumped off the bike and tried to figure out where the Gas comes from. The jumping could have been smarter, because I ripped the wire of my headphones doeing that. So no more music for the rest of the trip. Means more focus on riding than on singing for the next couple of days. *haha*

    Something with the level drain of the main tank was wrong so all the gas was spilling out. I was not able to fix it, but with some engeneering skills I was able to prevent it from spilling. (thats where duct tape and cable straps come in handy)

    No problems for more than 7000 km´s and now I break everything in a day? I thought to myselfe: If I will not make it to Magadan, and this would be a movie - at this point the narrator would say: "This was the day when things started to go wrong....."

    At Taishet there is the first crossing to the BAM Road.

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    Lots of old factorys around here.

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    When I did a presentation here in Austria after the trip an old war veteran of the 2nd world war was in the audience. When he saw the pictures he screamed. "This factory is looking exactly the same as the one I worked in when I was deportet to Sibiria." I got goos pumps.

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    The road got worse, but still tarmac. I made it easily to a town called Chunskiy and about 50 km more after that. (160k overall from Taishet). Nice countryside along.

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    After Chunskiy the tarmac was over.

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    When I asked people there about the way to Bratsk I was told that I would have to swim, because everything is flooded.

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    At least they took some pictures an videos of me and my bike. Sure you can find them on the russian version of youtube *g*

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    With that information it was a no-go for me and after trying a few options I decided not to go on the BAM. I was frustrated. I am just around 160km off the main road and I am not able to continue. How should I do more than 5000km in that conditions? This is just like climbing K2 in a snowstorm. It´s just not possible - I had to face the truth. Or am I just such a chicken and give up as soon as it gets a bit difficult? I did not know. That was hard but I decided to turn around and take the main road south of Lake Baikal to Irkutsk and Chita. No BAM Road. Bummer!

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    I rode back to Taishet and got on the Highway again.

    My little sightseeing trip off the beaten tracks.

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    I wanted to get at least to Tulun that day, but heaven joined my mood and started to cry heavy. Rain and Thunderstorms again. Just after dusk I found a truck stop on the road. They had rooms. But only 8-bed rooms. And you could rent by the hour. So I said, well 6 hours should be enough sleep and paid for that 6 hours. I did not sleep well with 7 truckers in the room, coming, going, farting and snoring.

    I looked at the map again that night, still dreaming of the BAM.

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    I knew the way via Tulun to Severobaikalsk and even to Taksimo should be possible - even in rain and with high water levels. But after that it´s getting serious. No bridges, lots of water crossings and of course no help from anybody. Villages being apart 400 km, some more, some less. My head was spinning and I was short of going crazy. Failing after Taksimo would mean I have to go back around 1.300 kms to reach the main road again. All I could do then would be riding back to Krasnojarsk, leave the bike there and go home by train, because I run out of time.

    There is just NO other way from the BAM road going south between Bratsk and Tynda.

    With all those thoughts in my mind I fell asleep.
  2. Blackbert

    Blackbert Factory Rambler

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    May I suggest you leave it hanging there for a week. Would be a shame to ruin it right away after building the suspension like you just did. :D

    Great stuff, thanks for sharing. :clap
  3. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    so who is "in" for that suggestion? :D
  4. doring

    doring Aventuros

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    Ahhhhhh!... I'm in. This will be great. :wink:.....I hope :cry
  5. RDT953

    RDT953 Been here awhile

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    Me too, I need to get some work done anyway.
  6. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

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    No, bring it now! It's getting better and better:lurk

    Nice BMW dealership, worth the stop for sure:wink:
  7. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    +1 :ear
  8. MoreCheese

    MoreCheese Now less Cheezy

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    I want more sooner than later.

    Also, thanks for making this report.
  9. 2LBOX

    2LBOX Adventurer

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    fanfreakingtastic!!!!!!! keep it coming.
  10. ferals5

    ferals5 Grumpa

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    :nod:thumb:deal at least till dakar is finished:lol3:lurk
  11. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    I dont remember the Krasnoyarsk BMW dealer being THAT good ... :1drink
  12. bend27

    bend27 by hook or by crook

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    !
  13. duroturk

    duroturk Been here awhile

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    Actually I saw your great video months ago on Youtube and now it is even greater to read your RR. I really thank you for sharing this dream trip with us.

    However I felt somehow sad that you have left this nice bike there when leaving. I would have been a happy candidate to fly to Magadan, welcome you there, take your bike and try to ride the same route back.

    At least to try. :D
  14. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    I think the BMW 3 Coupe was not there last year. That might be the reason.
  15. Xdream

    Xdream Been here awhile

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    I heard rumors that the Bike was seen again somewhere else after I left it in Magadan. But I will add you on my "bring my bike back guys" list for my next projekt if you want! :freaky
  16. duroturk

    duroturk Been here awhile

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    Deal! :freaky
  17. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    Yes, thats probably it.

    I think they got a new coffee machine too ...
  18. Durden

    Durden Freak!

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    Add me to that list if you dont mind, my biggest challenge is getting a bike across the Bering Straight (without spending a fortune).
  19. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    Maybe we need to set up a Magadan bike exchange business ... for Europeans who only have the time to ride one way, and for North Americans who want to just fly into Magadan and have a bike waiting.

    :evil
  20. Durden

    Durden Freak!

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    ^^^ Interesting, I think the biggest challenge is the insurance, registration and the carnet - I'm not sure how that would work trying to insure or register a bike that is in Magadan. If its possible, I would definitely be interested in buying/renting a bike from Magadan. Its always nice to have your own gear, but considering the transport costs, I would have no problem just riding one back to Europe.