Voltage regulator problems?

I don't have a 950/990 at the moment, but if one of the three in our family fails I'll do the upgrade for sure.

The wiring is everything but complicated, 3 wires go to the stator and 2 to the battery.

The only tools you need are a pair of side cutters and a crimping tool for open terminals.

Totally understand.

Perhaps you could put a Side by Side Pictorial for each process for OEM to the New Setup for the 950/990... it would be easier to take on the Not Too Hard Challenge.

I don't need one now, but am considering buying one of these kits for later, if and when it is necessary.

I am not the one selling those VRs...

If you want to solve the problem you'll have to do some work and research yourself. Unless you want to pay me to figure it out and spoon feed you with a pictorial...

To be honest with you, I think it is worse!

I've been trying to tell people about the MOSFET units ever since you told me about them. (each time I have given you credit and you find the one time I didn't.... Thanks again for the heads up back then. It totally solved my running issues on the 690. Don't know if I would have found the problem without you Lukas. )

I did a ton of research on the Triumph forums (they seemed to have the biggest issues of all manuf.) and then bought/installed the unit on my 690.

As Lukas mentioned, it really is an easy install. If you can solder and shrink shrink wrap you will be good to go. I am going to put a MOSFET unit on my 950 soon and will take pics when I do and create a little "how to".

The option of a premade unit from Ricks makes it even easier however, I won't be going down that route due to the fact that his kit still uses the brown OEM Stator connector and if I am going to put one on one of my bikes I am going to upgrade to a sealed style connector.

It's all good mate, it's not like I was the one that came up with the idea, I just read about it on Aprilia and Triumph forums myself. But I am very glad that it helped you sort out your bike.

I am sure that there will be many people with LC8 bikes glad to follow in your tracks once you have paved the way.

I replaced my stock VR with a MOSFET unit from Rick's Motorsport Electrics. http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Relocated to the side of the airbox as pictured below. I held the VR up to the side of the Airbox drilled two small holes and attached with self tapping screws. Replaced the Rick's/stock Stator/VR connector with a sealed connector from Eastern Beaver. Used the Delphi MeriPack 280 for 10-12 AWG.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/MetriPack280/metripack280.html

Fingers crossed this will be the last time I need to replace a failed VR.

BTW, the install was easy. Took about twice as long as swapping the stock VR, mostly due to working out how to mount it to the airbox (took the lid off to be sure I wasn't drilling a hole into a carb) and replace the stock connector.

Installed:

I'm installing my Rick's Motorsport VR on my SE this weekend and am concerned about the abandoned connector in the original wiring harness. The positive lead from the Rick's VR connects directly to the battery whereas the positive lead from the stock VR appears to split and go to the main fuse, the fuse block, and one of the relays.

I don't have a wiring diagram for an SE so I suppose I need to find one, but in the meantime do I just follow Rick's instructions and ignore the abandoned connector?

I mounted the new VR on the left side like most guys are doing and all the leads were the perfect length. I made a backing plate from 1/8" aluminum and used hardware store hose clamp things to mount it to the frame down-tubes. I'll post pics if anyone is interested.

Replied to your PM,

For everyone else, Yes, just follow the instructions and ignore the abandoned connector. Everything works fine.

NM

Guys,

Just sharing after going through my 3rd vr in 2 years I've decided to move my vr. I made a small metal mount relocating the vr behind the headlight unit.

I've managed to extend the leads on the positive wire that connects to the fusebox.

I can't afford paying $150 every year for a busted vr so I figured best to relocate it completely since I ride everyday.

Anywhere around the battery or exhaust area just won't do. It's always too hot around that area. I'm hoping this relocation will be good.

Bing

KTM Voltage Regulator Relocation by sombreroisland, on Flickr


KTM VR Install by sombreroisland, on Flickr

Voltage Regulator_Furukawa/Mosfet_Dual Connector Install

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=820432<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #575757; COLOR: #575757" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->
Here is my FH020AA Mosfet Voltage Regulator Install with the Furukawa waterproof Connectors... but done with the OEM Connectors in Place.

This way if the Regulator ever goes out (they don't make appointments), I can use this Universal Mosfet Regulator or use the OEM type.

My Original Regulater w/18k miles is Fine and will keep as a spare.

Bought this kit from here:

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm




I did buy the following from NAPA:
1- #785604 - 12 GA Wire/Yellow - for Stator - 3 @ 13"
2-#785602 - 12 GA Wire/Red - for R/W wires to Starter Relay Connector - 2 @ 13"
3- #785505 - 14 GA Wire/Green - Ground - 2 @ 11"
4- #784474 - 10-12 GA Male Spade Connectors - for Stator/Relay Connections - 5 and cut off their plastic shoulders
5- #784437 - 18-20 GA Ring Terminal - For Ground

Tools - Soldering Iron, Cut/Crimp Tool, Dialectric Grease

Did not use included 30 AMP Breaker (Lower Left Corner) or 10 GA Red/Black Wire (36") since I did not wire directly to Battery Terminals.


OEM Voltage Regulator and Connectors.


New Shindengen Voltage Regulator All Wired up and Ready to Install.



Used the Spaded End of Regulator Wires to OEM Stator Connector & Wire Tied to keep in place with DiElectric Grease ib both sides of Terminal to waterproof.


Used the Spaded End of Regulator Wires to OEM Red/White Starter Relay Connector & with DiElectric Grease ib both sides of Terminal to waterproof.


Ring Terminal in place for the Ground Wire from Voltage Regulator.


Only problem was with the OEM Skidplate, it's ridge at the Bottom hit against the Yellow Stator wires from the bottom of the Regulator. So had to not use the current screw holes and wired it in place to get the higher clearance to close the skidplate.

It started up with Voltages at Idle at 14.3 - 14.4 Volts and it did NOT get Hot like the OEM regulator would.

Hey guys, i have just finished experimenting with Machining a Heat Sink to surround REG/REC in its stock location. Got the Temp from 175 Degrees (shot with infra red gun to top of REG) down to 150. Not good enough, i have played with a couple different locations, and now have a Relocation Bracket, a few Rubber coated/Galvanized mounts, and can put this together, and send out in a Kit to anybody that is interested.

Shoot me a message PM wise, or use my business e-mail info@mvmotoventure.ca I will take a few Photos, and answer any questions you might have.

Latest Bracket/Relocation, i am getting a reading of 102 Degrees with the bike sitting there idling, five bars showing, fan kicked on, and drooling all over itself, all for the sake of Science, and a nice afternoon of Backcountry Riding.

I had a Higher Temperature when i was a Kid, so i would have to call this a success ???

Cheers, Mates. Mike.

Hi guys, I am here replacing VR from a SUZUKI V-Strom 650 on my ADV 950 2004 since there no OEM replacement around here, the question is, this regulator has 3 B-W cables that gooes to the stator and 4 more( two Black-Red and 2 Blacks ones) cables which I dont rightly know how to distribute them, any ideas on how to procced?

The links below can help you with this:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...-mosfet-voltage-rectifier-regulator-help.html (From Here)

The inner 2 wires have red stripes and the outer 2 are plain black.... If I decide to use the old wires here, do I tie the 2 red stripes together as the positive battery lead and then tie the 2 black outer wires together as the negative lead?

http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintenance-how/60842-how-install-mosfet-regulator-rectifier.html
Step 5 - This pic shows the wiring on the stock regulator. The stator wires are the black ones; the 2nd, 4th, and 6th wires. These are the ones that will be cut for installing spade ends in the new R/R's plug.

Thanks AdvGa, i will keep you posted

Offering some technical clarity here regarding the discussion of Voltage Rectifiers -Regulators

The Shindengen VRs are both SHUNT style. The OEM unit (similar to the SH821) in the KTM is the SCR style (shunting to ground to regulate maximum voltage output).

The "upgrade" Shindengen (most people are choosing the FH020AA) is a MOSFET style (still shunting to ground to regulate maximum voltage output).

SH821 internal diagram:



FH020AA internal diagram:



The significant difference between the two is the amount of heat they generate from shunting the voltage, the amount of current output that they can maintain at a given airflow. Basically the MOSFET unit will maintain a higher output of current for a given higher temperature. I have seen and heard of the MOSFET units doing a better job of maintaining correct system voltage in addition to running cooler than the SCR style.

Well just had my regulator go out on the trail, up in smoke. :eek1
Is this the usual form of death? I thought they went out with a whimper maybe doing a murder suicide with your battery?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/34523749@N08/8222214312/" title="P1000556 by chicojohn, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8222214312_524a12e8b8_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="P1000556"></a>

Anyway, I replaced with a Rick's that thankfully due to the OC Wisdom I purchased on my last trip home.
http://www.ktm950.info/how/ktm_950_issues.html
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=10-013H&pmc=MDRLVE05NTBBZHZlbnR1cmU=
I think I have now used all my suggested replacement parts.

A couple of questions?
1) My bike was running a temperature, not overheating but above normal I thought. After replacing the regulator, I appear to be normal again. Is it possible that the two are related?
2) I did not relocate the regulator. I see lots of interesting locations provided here. Is it worth it for the new regulator? The old guy lasted more than 30K miles.

I had done the VR installation successfully, the SUZUKI V-Strom regulator puts out 14.35 Volts regardless of the engine RPM`s . Lots of cutting, stripping, soldering as expected, the only minus side of this SUZUKI VR is its installation is the distance between center, I had to make a base plate for it. My next Question is, do Shindengen MOSFET makes a regulator with distance between bolt compatible with de 67 mm KTM uses? <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

Congrats on your Success!

As far the the Bolt Hole spacing on the Shindengen, I just used the Bolt Connection in One Hole.