This is intended as a photo guide supplement to the V Classics transmission article: http://www.vclassics.com/archive/tranreb.htm I recently blew 2nd gear in my M40 as I was shifting hard into 2nd. I removed the shifter from the interior of the car. I put the car on jack stands and crept under the car. I removed the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and the support bearing strap was removed and the driveshaft relocated as far to the rear of the car as possible. I jacked the rear of the transmission up slightly, and removed the transmission crossmember. Using 3/8" allen socket, extensions,air impact gun, breaker bar, and finally Dremel cutoff wheel on one that stripped to remove the 4 bolts from the bellhousing. I won't be using this transmission case because of the slight damage done to the mounting flange when I used the Dremel. I slid the transmission out, and in reverse order, installed a temporary replacement used working gearbox for now. With the old one out of the car and a spare I obtained in disassembled but good condition, I set out to make a better transmission out of good gears, and replace all bearings, worn parts, seals, and gaskets, and replace the rest of the driveline parts and rear main seal before reinstallment for a full driveline mechanical restoration. I started with the used, broken unit on the bench by draining it's murky, metal-laced contents: Lots of chips on the magnetic drain plug: looking inside and cleaning the top: We can see the damaged gear from here: Cleaning the outside: I used an impact gun on the driveshaft flange nut, but you can lock the gears by moving 2 of the shift rods at the same time and remove the nut by rachet instead. Then a puller can be used to remove the flange: Removal of the bearing cover, input shaft side: Removal of the speedometer drive gear assembly retainer bolt, the gear assembly, then the rest of the output bearing cover bolts: Remove the shift rods end cap cover on one end, then drive out the middle rod's tension pin to free the shift actuator from the shaft, and remove the rod. Remove the others by freeing them from their shift forks with the flathead set screws. I specially ground and extra screwdriver for these fasteners: Next step is to drive out this long countershaft pin. We haven't been able to see the countershaft yet, but it needs to be freed before we can see it. The pin is visible here, and it is advised one mark the ends to distinguish which way it came out so it can be treassembled likewise. Not a problem for me, I haven't been able to get it out yet. I will need to eventually, becauase it looks to be the better of the two countershaft rods. Trying to get it out to no avail using the steel driver rod I'd been using to drive it out: Now that the countershaft rod is out, it will drop the shaft inside slightly, allowing the mainshaft to separate. There will be a brass ring and some needle bearings that fall out. Oh wow, I chunked 4 teeth off the countershaft, so that's what this feels and sounds like: With everything apart now, I check out the case numbers, which are slightly different: That's it for now, two disassembled transmissions. Here is everything: Next time, we will inspect some parts and make a list of stuff, find out how much it costs, and place a parts order. Finally in phase 3, I'll show how I reassemble everything all the way through the installation, including some of the other parts of the driveline I'll be replacing.