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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Queen, Jan 16, 2006.
Delaware water gap!
Have a lead on crash victim that needs a fork, possibly 2. Anyone know what other years of forks will make an acceptable donor for an '18 650XT?
Just uppers? There's a DR650 donor option. Not for everybody's taste. But it's one path. Or just do a boneyard search for OEM.
I'm trying out that theory now. New chain and sprockets last May, only 5 or 6K on it so far and I am not going to touch it and see how long it lasts. I barely get 20K out of mine with lubing almost every gas stop so it has seemed to me to be a big nasty waste of time.
Like to stay with the DL forks. Just unsure if earlier model year DL650 forks are compatible.
Looks like Hawks Nest. Very nice area!
Ok...looking for some advice. It is maintenance time for my 2014 V-Strom 650. I got it new in 2016. It now has 26000 miles. I just replaced the front and rear sprocket with the chain about 1500 miles ago.
I am planning on replacing the air filter, spark plugs, engine coolant and the brake fluid and brakes.
What else should I be looking at?
Is there any type of fuel filter on this thing that needs replacing?
Should I replace the brake lines?
What are you thoughts on checking the valve clearance?
It depends on the conditions you ride in. What does "lube" do? Lube in quotes because most of us buy o/x/z-ring chains which are sealed and lubed internally from the factory. The "lube" part only really lubes the rollers externally, which is minimal compared to the internal lubrication, but it does help reduce friction a little. But, it also prevents rust (important if you ride in rain and/or salted winter roads), and a good "lube" keeps grit away. IMHO, the grit that accumulates on the chain is a real chain life killer. Not only it damages the chain, it increase wear on sprockets, which in turn also wear the chain more. A dry chain will survive longer than one covered in grit. That's why I stopped using all the waxy "lubes". If you ride any dirt/y roads, they attract and retain huge amounts of dirt, that with the lube becomes a grit that's a chain killer.
In the last decade or so, I found out that Teflon/PTFE lubes work really well if you ride dirt/y roads. the OEM chain on my 650 went almost 40K with minimal maintenance. That is, I sprayed it when I got home from day rides and/or at the end of the day on road trips (even when those were 5-700 mile days). I cleaned it maybe once a year, but it was fairly clean, due to the "lube" not attracting dirt, so maybe that helped.
Chain manufacturers recommend gear oil, which obviously work well too, but they fling a bit more than the "dry lubes", so you may have to apply it more regularly and you'll have to clean the rear wheel/swingarm a bit more often. If you have an auto-oiler, that's the stuff to use.
Fuel filter is a sock in the tank....I would not worry about it until it shows symptoms. Dump in a half a can of Seafoam and run a bit before putting it up for winter.
No need to replace brake lines
Valves are overdue unless you did them at the 14.5K interval...so do them.
The only thing I have not tried over the years and about 90K on my DL's is gear oil and yet I never get over 20K on a chain. I think it's all in the wrist.....
Nice area. I was up there a couple years ago...
Technically, the 2017+ have a different part number than previous DL650s, but the specs are the same, so if you buy a complete set from a Gen 2 bike, those will work too (and have adjustable pre-load as a bonus).
Thanks. I do use Seafoam every once and a while. The bike actually runs great and there is no issues or symptoms that I can tell.
I think you are right about the valves (they have never been done).
I hear ya. Same here, heck on the DL1K I couldn't get more than 12K on a chain/sprocket set...
Yet, that OEM chain lasted almost 40K on this last Wee. The only real difference is that I have been using the DuPont "dry lube" mostly. Or maybe I'm getting old and that wrist doesn't flick as hard as it used to. I don't seem to get any different mileage on tires, so I suspect not enough to make a difference...
What @Motor7 said. The air filter, spark plugs, engine coolant and valve clearances are over due. Do them soon. The brake fluid is technically overdue, but the brake pads depend on your use. Mine went 40K miles and I only replaced them because they were showing uneven wear. The uneven wear comes from the caliper not sliding smoothly on the pins, so when you inspect the brakes, clean and lube those pins.
When I tend my brakes I chuck the pins in my drill, spin them and polish them w 0000 steel wool. Seems to help reduce friction and potential binding. Then I lube them before replacing.
Fork oil, maybe complete fork service (bushings and seals).
I have gotten 25k out of the last two chain and sprockets on the nose, "OEM" sprockets, o-ring chain, I just can't make myself do the no chain lube thing.
I ride a lot of gravel, and a decent amount of dirt, valves done at 18k and not again at 53k, I'm not checking them again until it shows signs of being out of adjustment.
Plugs original, I put an air filter in at 25k, was not very dirty, (but I don't usually ride with a group so I could see them getting dirty riding 4-5 back in the pack on gravel.
1stgenfarmboy, i know you and i have been neck-and-neck with total mileage, (59k right now), and i just replaced my original spark plugs this week. It was definitely time, and the gap had increased beyond spec due to erosion. Also, I replaced the air filter for the second time now. This summer i got stuck eating a lot of dust on various gravel roads, from automobiles, so I thought it prudent. Lately I've been getting some of my best mpg ever, so I'm curious to see if that will improve. Haven't been able to ride it yet since I also have been working on replacing the steering bearings (stock ones had some indentations), and rebuilding my forks (right side was JUST starting to weep a bit). Oh yea, finally gonna try risers so I had to add the +2" front brake line, still need to go about replacing the fluid and bleeding the system.
Regarding valves, at about 16,000 miles or so, mine were in spec, at about 35,000 a couple of exhaust valves were tight so I put in new shims to set everything in the middle of spec. Soooo, really it should be time for at least another valve check, but after all the maintenance I'm doing right now, I need a break from wrenching!
Oh yea,,, the original point was regarding "no chain lube," and yea after eating aforementioned dust, and lots of gravel riding, the chain was completely encrusted in a thick layer of dirt. I don't often CLEAN my chain, just lube it, but I just couldn't leave it that way, and this time I did both.
The current chain (and sprockets) replaced the stocker at about 30,000 miles, and I see now that the front sprocket is pretty badly hooked.