VSTROM Vibration in low end

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by irishdec, Nov 1, 2007.

  1. irishdec

    irishdec Been here awhile

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    Hey all,I am looking for HELPFUL comments .
    On my Vstrom DL1000 around the low end of revs,especialy pulling off in 1st gear,there is a very noticable "roughness" around 3,000 revs.
    Is this normal ?.
    If I am low in revs in the other gears ,around the 2 and a half to 3,000 revs,its not as torquey as my KLR 650.again is this normal?.
    Regards to all.
    irishdec
    :freaky
    #1
  2. coop74

    coop74 Deal's Gap Junkie

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    some of the early ones had "clutch Chudder" which made it sound and feel horrible. Depending on who you are they say a new clutch basket fixed it and some got the fix for free....

    Mine is 2003 and has that issue. I just ride and live with it. I have never had a bike however that makes as many different sounds and things as a vstrom but it has proved reliable for nearly 30k miles...

    Coop
    #2
  3. irishdec

    irishdec Been here awhile

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    From what Ive read the 04's and on dont have the chudder.
    #3
  4. markjenn

    markjenn Long timer

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    3K is getting down near the point where most twins are a bit chunky, so probably normal - I'd try and get someone else to ride your bike and venture an opinion. (If you're used to 4-cyls, the very low-end will seem rough and agricultural on even the smoother twins although I would think it would easily be as smooth and powerful as a KLR.)

    - Mark
    #4
  5. irishdec

    irishdec Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info,guys



    #5
  6. rapidoxidationman

    rapidoxidationman Easily trainable

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    they say a powercommander III box will take care of it, but on my K5 dl1000 I just live with it. I'm not in 1st gear enough to have it get on my nerves. If you really like going slow it may be worth changing the sprocket gearing next time you swap your chain; search is your friend. Lots of guys around here have done this.

    ROM
    #6
  7. Pulasky

    Pulasky Been here awhile

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    I have the same issue in my KLV 2004...the cheepest solution is keep revs up 4k ... or change the sprocket gear...or ...not cheep but giving the best results (but not every time)...to buy PCIII , Teka SFI or Yoshi Box and chang ECU mapping...and go on dyno. But I don't know is that realy worth it ... same says YES worth to spend a few Benjamins...

    :1drink
    #7
  8. FT BSTRD

    FT BSTRD Welcome to The Dispersive

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    Maybe it's the burrito platter.
    #8
  9. simmersonwheels

    simmersonwheels Asleep at Switch

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    People forget the lineage of these motors. The original incarnation was for the TL1000S and TL1000R, a true sportbike twin gunning for world superbike domination.
    Admittedly, never a real success on the race track, these motors were never the less designed to spin, and breath like two mighty lungs, dammit!
    Asking it to lug at 3K all day is like asking a powerlifter to snap a bar from a foot below his feet. Top gear is for falling out of planes. Revel in the sweet creamy smoothness of the 4-5k RPM range. Visualize the oil streaming throught the galleries, coursing like waterfalls over the cams, floating the mains and rods on a slick of viscous golden protection the crankshaft flinging droplets like a blond godess shaking her hair in the surf!
    The coolant is doing the same, lap after lap through the radiator, tirelessly carrying combustions excess heat into the breeze!
    There's more, yes more!! The piston speed is high, and each charge of burning fuel and O2 has room to spread its energy into the expanding combustion chamber. No Knocking here, beemer fans! No special fuel flown first class from Munich to quell the GS's confused bashing flame, no no, the strom will spin and fly on oily crap squeezed out of an Alaskan seagul floating in PW Sound.
    DAMMIT ALL: LET YOU VSTROMS SPIN:eek1
    (Yes the growling at 3 k is pretty normal.)
    and yes, I know I have issues. Don't even think about getting me started about people ripping out secondaries! Those butterfly killers will burn in hell.:lol3
    #9
  10. Flyinggreek84

    Flyinggreek84 Go ahead, cut me off!

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    Get a Techlusion, fatten it up one point and enjoy how smooth it can be.
    we like to call it the V-0Strom Chudder.

    (it's too lean)
    #10
  11. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    :nod Perfectly normal unless correct fuel mapping is peformed.
    #11
  12. DRcruiser

    DRcruiser Tourin and Scootin

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    Adjust the secondaries and find a new, usable, bottem end, that you will not believe!! Also the TBS, TPS. Do all 3 and live in harmony!!:freaky
    #12
  13. querc

    querc ignoramus

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    Passion and metaphor in a STROM thread?:scratch


    :lol3:lol3

    Very nice:D
    #13
  14. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    right response, kawi, for most 1000's [the Weestroms have no such issues].
    for some of the earlier models, suzuki actually finally admitted to having a lousy ECM, and if the dealer has a good relationship with 'em [which is rare... like dealing with Darth Vader] they can get Suzi to cover a replacement unit.

    oh, and they also did a lot of 'free' replacements of clutch baskets on 1000's.... but by this point their attitude is probably... "look, customer, you had enough time to get this taken care of so _ _ _ _-off"
    #14
  15. jstcrashnthru

    jstcrashnthru Livin' the dream

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    You know, I've never had an issue with my '07 Strom. Seems to pull just fine from 2000 on up. Granted, it likes to pull from 4000 a lot more. But I've never had what I would call excessive vibration in the lower rpm range. Fuel injection seems pretty spot on to me as well.

    Maybe it's because I was off a bike for three and a bit years. I don't really have any direct comparison to another machine. Maybe it's because every bike I've ever owned was different. Each had it's own "personality", so to speak. And I learned to ride each within it's capabilities. If it likes to spin, then spin it. If it likes to lope, lope it.

    I rarely run my Strom below 3000-3500 rpm's. It just seems happier above that.
    #15
  16. svs

    svs Posts too much... Supporter

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    I have an 04 and the Basket is shit. in fact the DL parts are shit...and most 1k's develop chudder in the basket as the miles increase...Remember these are wear items and they go out. Upgrade to better components when it's time to repair. Too many owners have had the chudder and vibrations return by going back to OE parts.

    To test the clutch pull the lever in (only a little just as you feel the pressure from the springs) at idle and see if you can feel the hammering in the lever. Also apply just a little bit of pressure to the lever in the RPM range the vibrations come up in.

    If you can smooth out the vibes it's the clutch basket.

    AS A NOTE:
    I changed out to a 43 tooth rear sprocket. Installed the MMike Spacers to cinch-up the cush drive deeper into the wheel hub and installed a PC 3 and had it mapped on the Dyno to eliminate run lean issues.

    Meaning: I ruled out all the above as the source of the problem.

    I am changing over to an SV basket and cover and going with Barnett plates and springs. I have 30K on the bike and ride hard, and am at the GVWR limit when we load up and ride two-up.
    #16
  17. uranys

    uranys Been here awhile

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    +1 on remapping. My '02 ran like shite till I got it remapped. If you head over to http://vstrom.info and poke around there used to be a yosh box loaner program that you could sign up for. That's how I did mine.

    Also sync the throttle bodies and if you want snapper throttle response, take out the vacuum restrictor plate thingies.
    #17
  18. irishdec

    irishdec Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info,I checked out the Techlusion web site,but man,,,,that sems very tech. to set the adjustment.Have you done this yourself and if so ,what level of difficulty was it,1-10 scale,and whats your level of tech'ness..1-10 scale ?.
    Regards
    irishdec


    #18
  19. clawspawn

    clawspawn Adventurer

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    I dont know how many miles you have on yours. I had some vibrations about the same RPMS. When the bike got about 6000mi on it it smothed out kinda came and whent for a wile. Now its as smooth as ever:clap. Good luck:freaky
    #19
  20. MPH

    MPH 1290 SAR

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    Timely post, in that just last weekend, I did the electrical hookup of my new grip heaters, meaning that I had the whole bike apart (side panels, fuel tank, misc items). Since it was apart, I took the opportunity to install vacuum port extension tubes to facilitate a later Throttle Body Synch and do a general looksie over it all (for the first time).

    Among the checks on this now-stripped bike was a look at the often-cited rear throttle body boot, since my bike had its share of stumble/backfire/chudder issues prior to getting a new ECM under warranty (1K4). Sure 'nuff, as often mentioned here and on VSRI, the rear boot was dislodged, not necessarily off, but certainly 6-7mm away from fully seated. I loosened the clamp, fully-seated the TB, then tighted the clamp to a torque of "the crap out of".

    Upon reassembly, I was treated to a tone never heard in the roughly 12K miles that I've owned this bike (since new). The motor just completely fell "on-song", very very smooth power at idle and low-throttle off-idle, 2500rpm is now a useable range at speed in high gear, no more studdering (even after the warranty ECM, it would still hiccup once every other day or so). I don't think it was an air leak, because I would have thought that the detriment to the running condition would have been worse. Instead, I think it had to do with intake runner length. Like I said, when it was fully-seated, it smoothed out considerably. It's like a new bike, launching off of a stop requires much less throttle, very smooth with less revs. :clap

    So as an added thing to watch for, if you have a rough-running 1K, check to see that both throttle body boots are fully-seated.

    Thanks for listening (to my first post!).
    Mark
    #20