All is not doom and gloom though. I did manage one remarkably effective fix involving a pair of channel-locks and some copper wire. For ages, the right-side exhaust pipe has been leaking where it joins the cylinder head. In their wisdom, Guzzi used a threaded collar that pulls the pipe into the head where a flange near the end of the pipe is supposed to seal against a round copper gasket. As you tighten the thread to get a seal, the gasket deforms, eventually turning flat and ineffective. I'd had just about enough of the popping and backfiring on deceleration - goodness, it's not a Harley - and I have Guzzi's dignity to uphold. After handing over some cash to Canadian Tire I wound a few rounds of copper wire between the flange and the pipe end, carefully inserted and locked down the pipe.....and magic, no more leaks. For now anyway. It's anyone's guess how long it will last, but at least now I have the materials to do it again. You may be asking yourself why any sane person would put themselves through an enormous trip, limping along from one Heath Robinson fix to the next. The short answer is, I enjoy it. It adds a little challenge to what would otherwise be just another long ride. I do sometimes find myself looking wistfully at immaculate full-dress cruisers as they glide effortlessly by (especially when I'm doing yet another road-side tweak), but then I turn the key, the old Eldorado fires up again sounding almost as it should, I throw my leg across, settle into my well worn seat, clunk into a gear and ride off happy.