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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by JimVonBaden, Dec 17, 2012.
I put a John gemi chip in the 96 r1100gs. Really smooths things out!
What type of car did she buy? It's over $100 for a shop to change the oil here; I pay to have the truck & The_Filly's car done, but I do all the maintenance on the 4 bikes in the garage. The_Filly has helped with what is now her Grom & she will be doing it at the next change while I "supervise"
Installed some LED strips in the man cave. Giddy up.
Dang, you need a DJ and some dancing girls!
Lol. I’ll supply the music!
The Dodge / Jeep / Chrysler dealer always sends me coupons in the mail. I can usually get an oil change for about 35 bucks and that's with Mobil 1. I can't do it myself for that.
yep, both my girls had to change a tire the first day they got a car. They know how to change the oil and jump start a vehicle as well. The oldest called her first week at college and said she had to show some guy how to jump his car.
Still have to pick up a set of cables for the car or get her a NOCO and go over that.. She won't be driving it much until she gets her license so the next few months will be prep and learning before it becomes a daily.
Got the cargo shelf all covered in Hurculiner and re-installed.
Now for some real fun.
I had found a set of axles on Craig's list with 4.56 gears and lockers front and rear. The front he had also already put C gussets on it and Lower Control Arm skids as well as Chrome Molly axle shafts. Only thing he didn't do was put a Truss on it, so I wanted to do that before putting the axles under my Jeep.
I finally was able to get a friend over to weld the truss for me so away we go.
Prepping the axle.
With the center ribs on.
And the rest of the truss
All painted and ready to go in.
Old front axle out.
Old read axle out
Finishing up the wiring
After I was all done with the wiring I pushed the button for the first time and the rear did not lock. Shit!
I started digging in and I had power all the way back to the frame side of the connector for the locker, but it wasn't getting through to the axle side. So another Ebay connector put on and success . (I had bought a wiring harness from Eaton for these lockers, but when it came the connectors on the harness did not connect to the axles. So I sent that back and made my own harness)
I went wheeling on Sunday but I didn't need the lockers so I don't know how they work off road yet.
Got my L2 GSXR 1000 stick coils installed and wired up this morning. DL fired right up!
I am looking for a good vice, what are you using there?
I used a cheap and fidgety valve spring compressor I bought at Autozone. It worked to disassemble but I'm not sure how reassembly will go.
OH! The vise holding the shock. I'll have to look at it when I get home. I don't remember where I picked it up.
Got the plywood up on the wall that's going to be my workbench. 3/4" should provide a good foundation/backplane for a very solid setup. :)
I have had an intermittent electrical problem with my Clearwater fork mounted lights since the day I got the bike (used). Wasn't apparent to me during the daytime, but when I rode at night one of the lights was flickering. Got home gave the housing a little thump and that made the ligth flicker.
My first thought was that there was a bad connector inside the housing that was causing the issue. Emailed Clearwater Customer Service and they replied to check the connector where the left and right hand lights meet. That's quite a way up under my fairing and I was hoping not to take too much plastic off for this project (wishful thinking, huh?). I was also told that the lamp housings are not user accessible and opening them might render them inoperative.
My son got to looking around and he noticed that there were two zip ties holding the light cable to the brake line. And where these zip ties were located, the insulation on the light wiring was cracked. Simple cause...the zip ties were fastened too tightly and every time the front suspension compressed or extended, these zip ties would bite into the wiring insulation. We removed the ties to find the wire strands barely held together. I had two Posi-twists in my goody box, so cliped the two wires in question, stripped some insulation from both ends, and connected them back together using the Posi-twists. Wrapped it back in electrical tape and it works like a charm.
Total cost of repair: $0 (parts already on hand). Total time needed for repair: 20 minutes. Total satisfaction: Immense!!
Hookers & blow, prolly...
Oh, you mean vise!
It's a Bessey 5" Multipurpose Vise
I added some Bessey Soft Jaws to it as an extra.
Posi Loks/Twists are so very handy. If I'm ordering from Eastern Beaver, I always add a cpl to my order
They were easier to ‘use, when you couldn’t find them at Walmart or certain automotive stores. Now it’s either Eastern or Beaver or Amazon. Not exactly difficult but you have to plan ahead on your projects a little more. All of their products are Lifesavers.
A neighbor is moving, and found some of her father's old tools, rusted beyond reason. She asked me if there was anything I could do with them. A day's soak in evaporust, then through the parts washer, then some scotch-bride, wire wheel, sandblaster, paint and polish. Simple like pie. The shears cut nicely too. Then on to another project, my youngest is off to her first apartment and bought a cheap used desk. When they refinished it they just sanded the front of the lock off rendering it useless, so I took the old pieces, some brass, some aluminum, solder, epoxy, the lathe, the mill, and beer and came up with a decorative, working key. Btw that orange circle at the back of the key is glow in the dark powder mixed into Epoxy.
Edit: because there's no kill like overkill, I fired up the surface grinder and took a half-thousandth off each edge of the straightedge. I also picked up a sine bar at a swap meet the other day so I figured I'd true it up also.