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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by JimVonBaden, Dec 17, 2012.
Glad you are alive brother.
Changing the oil in the old 1972 Westinghouse. Never gets changed in a timely manner. Plaquard says change every three months. I try to do it annually.
Took an inventory of the Craigslist buy I made yesterday. $40, l'm happy with it.
Damn, fine buy!
Changed the coils, spark plugs, serpentine belt and tensioners today. The belt was not an issue, very easy, though I suspect it had already been changed not too long ago as it looked great at 90K miles. I also installed LED bulbs to my headlights.
The plugs have over 1mm gap, so definitely due, though a nice tan color. Interestingly, the coils were Denso, and looked like new, maybe are. I replaced them with Bosch. I know, a step down. But I wanted new just in case. The car was running fin, but at 90K miles, I figured it was a good idea.
That said, I learned a valuable lesson about coil installation. Make absolutely sure the coil is properly installed. I had started the car after coil install and it ran OK, after kicking out a cloud of smoke from oil dropping into number 4 cylinder when I pulled the plug. When I went to drive it, it ran like crap and the SES light came on.
Back home and pulled it all back apart again. I pulled and swapped coil number 1 and no change, so did the same for number 2, bingo. I figured I had a bad new coil. But, just for fun, I swapped back in the new Bosch and it still ran fine. I am guessing the connector was not fully seated. The Bosh coils have plastic retainers, and the denso metal. Put it all back together and runs and drives fine. No noticeable change really, but I am glad it is done. The only thing left, to do in the fall, is the water pump and rad fluid, then maybe the trans fluid.
Fixed my wife’s Crocs.
Shaved a plastic 1/4” bolt head down. Crazy glued the nut on and sanded it down.
Fixed the leaking junction box on for the pool pump. Old box was to badly gone and my attempt to fix and limp it along until next season wasn't happening. Had a small leak and the GFCI 240V breaker caught it as it was meant to do. No damage, but a new box later and no issues after the rain this weekend.
Moved to finishing the basement 8ft T12 lights move. Lights have been hung and gutted with new tombstones installed to convert them to 4ft T8 direct drive LEDs. LEDs have been ordered. Look forward to no more buzzing noise and instant light in there.
Spent a good bit of time yesterday tracking down a coolant leak on my oldest boy's girlfriend's car and replacing the plastic coolant elbows between the intake and belt tensioner. Replaced the serpentine belt and battery at the same time so she'll (hopefully) be less likely to break down for a while.
[RANT]Who was the asshat at GM who decided to run the coolant lines for the heater core through the belt tensioner on the 3800 engine using plastic elbows? Whoever it was, they need to be kicked in the taint with steel-toe boots.[/RANT]
Put all back together with aluminum elbows and a bit of silicone sealant to minimize the likelihood of future leaks.
Now I get to replace the alternator on my middle son's Acura TL so he can get to school tomorrow.
When it rains, it pours.
Swapped the old flathead Briggs and Scrapiron I've been limping along for the past year. My Snapper now has a fresh, new lease on life courtesy a Honda GSV190. Haven't mowed with it yet, but by all accounts it's supposed to be quite a bit more powerful and efficient. I can already confirm it's WAY quieter.
Note my table in the background, I've finished sealing it and am now just letting it cure before I bring it inside.
Oh I also did a brake job in my Ford Ranger. New rear shoes and drums.
I worked on my KTM.
I got the coolant dumped and the hoses on. I'm still futzing with clamp positions. And routing wiring. I'll finish that up tomorrow.
I ordered another $100 in parts. Exhaust gaskets and such. Those graphite rings get destroyed. So, I ordered four to have two spares again. I'd used the two spares I had a long time ago. I got the drain line for the airbox routed, just need to get the length right.
I'll deal with the fuel pump refresh tomorrow as well.
Then fill the motor with oil, and coolant and button it back up.
Once it's buttoned up, I can hose it off and make it pretty.
Then go ride in the desert and make it dirty again.
I want to spend a day at the dry lake fiddling with the suspension and rediscovering my dirt legs. Yes, it'll be hot. I'll take ice water and find a nice place to eat a bite.
Then once I'm satisfied with the bikes function, I'll deal with wheels and tires and sprockets and chain. Then I'll be ready for travel.
So,back to waiting on parts once I get the motor buttoned up.
I found a couple of knackered rubber bushings at the top of the radiator I have meant to replace fro years. Finally I managed to remember to order the parts.
This was one of today's finds, the left side coolant fitting on the radiator,
And after I worked on it a bit,
The hose on that left side was puffed out so it was very large. Replacing those things was a good idea.
A lot of stuff comes off to get at things,
You can see the airbox drain line hanging below the bike near the bucket. It is more than twice too long. I'm fine with that. I've got Tygon tubing for the tank vent lines that went missing. The right side tank had a burned off stub that was hard as a brick. I carefully cut that off the tank.
depending on how far I get tomorrow I hope to bleed the clutch and brakes too.
I'll pull the exhaust pipes out and clean them up as well.
As long as I'm here.
And I sorted my valve stems for tubeless conversion, but I think I'll wait on that until after my travels. I'd rather test that close to home.
I bought CRES tubeless stems that are the same diameter as the stems in the tubes we use. No drilling.
They aren't 90 degrees, but I really don't need that with the 18/21 set up.
They came with nuts that had a tall bush feature I didn't like. Instead of cutting that off, I found some other nuts I had to work and even a radiused aluminum washer for the front rim that is not flat in the center like the rear. But, that project will wait for cooler weather come winter.
I think I'll pour a beer and get somebody to bring me some pizza.
I welded. ..
Not usually a big deal, but today was a first for me.
I've been farm (stick) and light MIG welding since I was a teen.
I finally broke down and bought one of those import TIG welders so I could do more precise welding as well as Aluminium.
For the first time in my 47 years I laid an aluminium bead.
And because I'm impatient I practiced on a bombed out mower casing.
Not pretty, but I think it drove home how clean Alu has to be.
Probably the same engineer that designed the placement of the duramax water pump. Harmonic balancer needs to come off to access a housing bolt good thing it’s only torqued to damn near 300 ft/lbs. it seems like half the engine has to come out......guess that’s why they charge $800+ to swap them out
This weekend I began organizing my garage\workshop. Our new house has a 2nd detached 1920's detached 2 car garage. After moving in, it was....well it was a total mess. I began to hunker down and do some initial organizing:
Got the truck running again. '77 F250 with a 460. Earlier in the year I put on a Holley Sniper EFI. One of the features is spark control. Knowing the original distributor was tuned for 70's emissions and the curve was junk, this was good. Also the progressive throttle linkage kit I installed made the ported vacuum port useless, so computer control is needed to get an effective vacuum advance.
Instructions say I need a high dollar aftermarket distributor with a phasable rotor. This is so I can get the rotor to aim at the post over the range of advance. Well that stuff is expensive. In the end it is still just a magnetic pickup distributor. So I took the Duraspark apart, locked the mechanical advance easy enough. Vacuum advance was removed, the bracket cut off and put back on as it is the locating tab for the cap. A dab of RTV to fill the hole. Now for the rotor phasing. Holley has the blinders on thinking you must be able to alter the rotor to the reluctor wheel to fix the phasing. In reality you just need to adjust the rotor to the magnetic pickup. Magnetic pickup was a movable feature, that is how the vacuum advance worked. I piece of stainless TIG filler rod and I made a link. Built it with a bend. By adjusting the bend I offset the pickup from the rotor. Spare distributor cap with a hole in it and a timing light I could see the alignment. The set base timing feature let me dial in the full range of timing to confirm alignment.
Now to button up loose ends and go drive it.
Pictures. : deal
Also, nice work.
Thanks cal08. I was really lucky. Mrs Pathfinders has me asked to avoid riding on the interstate during rush hour. It will add 15 minutes to my drive but I will keep the peace at home.
I-85 is terrible at any hour.
I occasionally have to ride into downtown Atlanta on I-85 to visit jobsites, and the traffic is just unbelievable. Not just the sheer number of cars, but the incredible levels of stupidity displayed by a high percentage of the drivers. There's something about sitting in bumper to bumper traffic that makes people lose all impulse control.
The neverending construction on I-85 thru SC and NC creates similar situations.
Repaired an unscheduled landing.
I got a little further along with the 990R work,
And cleaned up some of the exhaust,
This is the first time I've seen an OPE repower that didn't use a Harbor Freight engine. Well done!