What did you do to your bike today thread

Discussion in 'Australia' started by dazza67, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    In the meantime, I finished a boosted seat for yours truly on the missus' KLX. Picked up a 2nd on eBay for $100.

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    Some of the staples were rusty and broke, so Dremeled them flat.




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    Had a little used stock DR650 seat foam in the shed which I cut up with a electric carving knife and fine tuned it with a drum sander in a drill. Then tried to fit a generic cover I had and no way to get the wrinkles out, so I abandoned that and took it into my local upholsterer who extended the sides of the fitted original to get it on .





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    The stock seat wasn't terrible for comfort, and should be better now with an extra 25 mm of foam, and its a bit wider. So a bit comfier, and easier on the knees when both sitting and transitioning. Looks stock too, and nearly is.
    DOT, Just Dan, Richarde1605 and 8 others like this.
  2. dnrobertson

    dnrobertson Big Bike, Slow Rider

    Joined:
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    I have used normal time-serts on my KTM 640.

    This page https://timesert.com.au/ explicitly calls out enlarged time-serts to repair failed helicoils.

    Might be worth a try (or give them a call, they have helped me in the past)).
  3. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    The KLX has a 300 kit in it which I fitted years ago. At the same time I fitted a bigger bore Staintune header, keeping the stock muffler and dialed in with my bum dyno and a Dynojet kit. Now that I plan to be riding it more, the suspension got the full Cogent treatment and I've improved the ergos by moving the bars forward, the pegs down and back, and the seat up a bit. Means she can still ride it if she gets motivated by just swapping the seats over.

    Next up is a TM33 pumper to replace the stock CV carb. And then I want to tune it with my O2 sensor and AFR meter.




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    Drilled a hole in the header at a convenient location, opening it up with the Dremel. Then 'fitted' the sensor bung and tacked it in place.




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    The Staintune header dispenses with any clamping to the midpipe and it didn't seal 100%. Interestingly, and conveniently, a DR650 clamp end bit fits perfectly. I had a crash damaged header just in case it'd be useful one day in the shed, so cut the end of that off and buffed it up.




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    Welded the bung on and brazed the clamp end on. Its slipped right over the Staintune pipe end, after shortening it the requisite amount.

    Next up is bolting it back on and fitting the carb. And as I was into it, I ordered a Barrett muffler and mid pipe for it. Internet wisdom way back was that the exhaust limitation of the stock system was the header, especially when 300 cc, with the muffler being not overly restrictive, just heavy. Anyway, its only the kid's inheritance :D

    Barrett here; https://www.barrettproducts.com.au/store/p53/KAWASAKI_KLX_250_SLIP_ON_EXHAUST_UP_TO_2019_MODELS.html
  4. tripodtiger

    tripodtiger Off riding around on bitumen circles.

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    My first thought but, I figured that I should go through the motions at least and check the clearances. One is just at minimum, the others are good.
    The torn helicoil was a surprise.
    I've puled the carbs apart a few months ago & replaced the needle/seat but it's sat since then. Can't do anything now, until the cam cap is repaired/fixed.
    ce la vie. Waiting for parts seems to be my thing, these days.
    BergDonk likes this.
  5. tripodtiger

    tripodtiger Off riding around on bitumen circles.

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    thanks for that.

    There are witness marks only left of the thread the helicoil went into. Something over size is needed.


    One set of cam caps on fleabay. US$80. I suppose postage would be twice that.
  6. david61

    david61 Queue, a word with 4 silent letters....

    Joined:
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    Western Australia
    Going to chuck this in the WR. Work bought a metric shit tonne of them to put into vehicles at work till someone pointed out that aren't ADR compliant. Fucking exxy 20210915_120241.jpg .

    I may have borrowed a few before they went in the bin...
  7. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Got a start on the TM33 for the KLX today. Its a kit from Mikunioz; https://mikunioz.com/shop/1-kawasaki-klx-250-300-mikuni-tm33-8012-pumper-carb-kit/?v=13b249c5dfa9

    Supposed to be good to go, once the supplied jets are fitted. They supply 3 mains for fine tuning, plus a preferred pilot, plus whatever Mikuni had in there.




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    Although I've had the carb for a few months, I hadn't had a good look at it. I decided I wanted an extended fuel screw. I have a few stock FCR ones in the shed, having replaced them with Flexjets. The thread is the same, so I stuck one in the lathe and freehanded a Dremel with fine cutter and linisher to sort of replicate the stock one. Sticks out a bit, and with some engraved marks on it, and some needle nose pliers, it should work good enough, I hope.





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    Then I pulled the needle, what a PITA that is compared to pretty much any other needle I've pulled. Probably means that needle changes will entail carb removal, not sure yet.





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    Rummaged through my needle collection to see if I had anything similar. Got a few that are a lot leaner, the TM33 one is the one with the washer on it, and the long one is an FCR needle for comparison. Might end up grinding my own needle from one of the spares, or not, depending how it evolves.





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    Back together with Allen heads instead of JIS screws and ready for mounting.





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    Just got to feed it in here.
  8. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Got a bit more done with the TM33 fitment. Supposed to just need a little bit of steel removed from the frame lug where it connects to the head. That's what the instructions with the kit say anyway. Other info suggests that the closing cable needs to be removed, but seemingly only because the TM33 pictured in the instructions has no facility for a closing cable. Anyway, nearly there after some head scratching.




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    Pulled the old carb out the left and compared them, on the bench. The sleeve supplied for the airboot makes the new carb about 8 mm longer overall. The head side of the carb is 1 mm dia smaller.




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    I found an aerosol can cap that fitted and thought about matching the carb to the intake manifold with the Dremel, but when I clamped it up is matched pretty well and was secure so I left it as is. The manifold is attached to the head with a couple of Allen heads and removing it as part of carb R&R makes it much easier.




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    As per the instructions, the bit of frame that has to be relieved comes off easy enough with a carbide cutter in the Dremel and time for a test fit of the new carb :confused





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    Either I come up with a new longer intake manifold, or adapt :hmmmmm

    Nothing in the way of suitable inlet manifolds handy and lathing up and extension might be an option, but WTH, off with the closing cable on the spindle drum.





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    Then there's no room to fit the opening cable mount to the carb even after cutting it down. On the RHS side of the frame is a bolt on tank mount no longer used with the Acerbis, so I made up a bolt on mount for the cable to take its place.




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    Bolted the idle screw to the old fuel tap frame lug instead of the carby as supplied.




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    Then 'T' vented the vents and added the tube and contemplated the fuel line.




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    And came up with this. The original bracket bolted to the regulator for the stock idle screw keeps the hose nicely positioned with a couple of zip ties.




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    Then removed the closing cable from the bike.




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    With all the likely welding jobs identified, two only, fired up the welder and silver spray can. Stuck the cable mount together for the throttle and tack welded a 10 mm nut to the frame/head mount plate. The 8 mm ones are captive stock. Then hit it with the grinder until I had 1 mm clearance to the top of the carb. The plates used to be the same shape, not any more :D

    Hopefully running tomorrow, then its tuning time :evil
  9. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Finished putting the KLX together. Fuel on, needle nosed pliers on the fuel line to pump some fuel through in case of an air lock, key on, full choke, fired up on the 2nd hit of the starter and idled at about 2.5k :clap

    Short test ride up and down the drive and no flat spots to half throttle and nice and snappy, very promising. Tried to tweak the idle but I have the throttle cable a bit tight, so will sort that and then find the best tool I can to tweak the mixture screw. Be more accessible without the O2 sensor bung :dunno Then I might attach the AFR meter and O2 sensor, or leave it until the Barrett arrives, choices.

    Seat feels promising too, looking forward now to getting the carb and suspension dialed and then just ride it :freaky
  10. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Got the idle nice on the KLX this afternoon. As was, even with my dodgy extended fuel screw, I struggled to access it, so I pulled enough bits off to swivel the carb to the left and pull it out. Then drilled a couple of 1.5 mm holes in it and pressed in a couple of roll pins to enable a screwdriver to push in there and tweak it. It was at 1.5 turns which I felt might have been a bit rich, so set it at 7/8 for the heck of it.

    I've got a spare FCR Flexjet in the shed and looked a it a few times trying to decide if modding it was a good idea or not. Once dialled I never really touch them, but getting them right can be a bit of toing and froing at times.

    I also fiddled a bit with the alignment of the throttle cable to take a bit of tank pressure induced kink off it. Still a little bit, but the throttle fully closes now as it should. It fired right up again, so I took it for a ride up and down and around near the house to warm it up. Tweaked the mixture a tad, now at 1 turn with a nice steady idle at <>1500 rpm. Starts instantly, its running before you can release the starter button, has snap off the bottom and pulls hard into the mid range with no fluff, just instant throttle response. Cracking it in 2nd gear off the bottom lights up the tyre and lifts the front, which it never really did before.

    So I rode it around bits of my 9.5 km single for 30 mins or so and can't fault the throttle response and grunt up into the mid range. On the more open driveway and under the power line, it pulls hard into 3rd too, but maybe goes a bit flat when the revs are up 3/4 throttle on, or maybe just back to how it was. Might be a bit rich on the main and needle, but I've decided to ride it some more on the open proper outside the gate, then after the Barrett goes on, fit up the AFR meter and O2 sensor to find out.

    Had a bit of a play with the clickers on the new Cogent suspension too, and its pretty impressive, can slam into stuff and it just rolls over, no kick or harshness, really nice.

    The pumper equipped bigger bore KLX351 I rode in the US a couple of years ago didn't go any better, maybe even not as well, if my memory serves me OK, and the suspension and ergos on it did not work for me.

    As is, and if its as good as it gets, I'm pretty happy, been an interesting project that's made a fun bike funner.

    Nearly there....

    :ricky
  11. Uncle Crumpet

    Uncle Crumpet Long timer

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    QLD
    just out of interest as i recently bought some land, how many acres have you got to get 10kms of tracks?
  12. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    The patch we have the house on and to the left of the road is <> 100 ac.

    I set it up over a few years some time ago and when I was club racing, had ideas that it might get used for an enduro sprint or similar. Never happened though. I have fun on it, as do my mates from time to time :D

    @Hoots and @DougW have done a few laps in years gone by, as have others. Sorts a few out too :-)
  13. tripodtiger

    tripodtiger Off riding around on bitumen circles.

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    Location:
    looking for a smaller house & bigger shed.
    The XT's cam cap is fix't.
    I had another play with it and, a bit of a think.
    Worked out that it hadn't been helicoiled. Took it back to Craig and that was done. It's ready to go back in, when I get to it.

    Much better than having to find second hand parts. I figured the only other option was to weld it and have it tapped again.
    BergDonk likes this.
  14. Beet

    Beet adventurer

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    Took Old Mike, 500 bullet Royal Enfield, out with boys at Myrtleford Victoria. Did 3 hours or so mostly dirt tracks/roads. Old Mike did RE proud, never missed a beat. Water crossings, up hill down hill, little slippery bits etc. Great time and new people to meet. 99F8DA42-1F90-449A-8B6C-0B0238DC8551.jpeg EDEE9662-DD82-4FB6-BDA7-7A8205F3E0CD.jpeg C491613B-3DE3-4411-8A23-14278C413A6B.jpeg
  15. Just Dan

    Just Dan Bugger, Burnt toast

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    Went for a mid week ride to central highlands with few mates for lunch.
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    LeglessOne, BergDonk, mrsdnf and 4 others like this.
  16. rossguzzi

    rossguzzi 990 Adv.

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    Location:
    Bottom left hand side of OZ
    Left a pool of dribble next to bike while looking at it. Sorry.

    Dont be too quick to judge me. Pollen/hayfever/asthma/bronchial infection will do that :sick
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    Did I mention I hate this time of the year.
  17. Uncle Crumpet

    Uncle Crumpet Long timer

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    I've got a 2005 iron barrel very similar to Old Mike that Ive recently bought back to life. How many kms has he done? Any dramas?
  18. Beet

    Beet adventurer

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    I bought it second hand from original owner in WA some 3? years ago. It had some 30,000 on speedo, had already had a motor rebuild with updated bigend bearing. A few rides and it seized on me. I pulled motor completely apart and found the bad job the last guy did(not past owner, some bike shop in Perth) it was so dirty and gritty inside and bugs in there that must have been from last build. I bought an oversize piston and rebored it to suit. While at it I removed starter motor amd bought a replica clutch internal case to suit no starter. The only issue after rebuild is I have a slight weep with 2nd head gasket - composite one. The first standard one blew real quick. I won’t say I hammer it but I do ride it. It’s a great bike and a bit old school. Great gear box if you make sure you use full swing of stick. The chain guard broke its brackets on the High plains road after Dargo rally. No other issues to speak of. I do early and regular oil changes. Hope that helps. Happy to chat if want. 0458294271. Regards
  19. tripodtiger

    tripodtiger Off riding around on bitumen circles.

    Joined:
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    looking for a smaller house & bigger shed.
    After re-fitting the cam cap etc, I pulled the carbs off.

    Just a thorough clean and re-set of the various adjustable bits. That'd only take a couple of hours.

    Until I decided the float bowl gasket looked like it needed some attention.:thumb

    As you are anticipating, if it didn't need attention before hand, it does now.:amazon
    Actually, it stretched while I was pulling it out. That suggests that it was past it.:nod

    Yet another task stretches into the future, waiting for parts.:dirtdog

    Everything else just looked aged. The pilot was obstructed when I first looked but I find that is normal. I wonder if sometimes it's just fuel in there under surface tension - there was liquid fuel in the carbs when I took them off.


    My ankle can heal while I wait for an event to go ahead.
    BergDonk likes this.
  20. GTinAus

    GTinAus nutsplitter

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    Uralla
    Probably nothing to do with your gasket, but a couple years ago, I needed a gasket for a twin cylinder water cooled Kawasaki motor (not a bike, but for a big Kubota ride on mower I inherited, with sump full of water, owner was told it was uneconomical to fix it, and only good for the tip).

    After a strip down, found the fuel/oil pump had blown a gasket, due to a bolt coming loose.

    The gaskets I needed were only light gasket paper, but to get the one I needed, I would have to buy a rebuild kit, for about $800.

    Seeing as I didn't need or want the complete kit (it was only a fuel/oil pump seal, but complicated shape).

    Tried the usual, tracing, no go because of multiple protrusions in the centre, tried cutting a hole in the centre, and tapping around the edge with a light ball pein hammer, but no go, as the housing was too light, even the tried and tested method of smearing the surface with oil and transfering to paper didn't work, everything was too fine. .

    Eventually had a brainwave, took a photo of the bottom of the fuel pump (the oil pump was incorporated as well, why it was so complicated), made some precise measurements, and copied the photo into a CAD program I had, did a raster to vector conversion, sized the result to actual size, and used my sons laser engraver to cut the gasket, took several passes to cut right through, but it worked perfectly.

    Sorry, no photos, but if your ever stuck, and you know someone who has a laser engraver, worth a shot.

    Kubota fired up, and has run flawlessly ever since, cheapest $12,000 mower ever. :D
    OzCRU, tripodtiger, BergDonk and 4 others like this.