What Did You Do To Your KTM Today?

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by DeeGee, Apr 12, 2010.

  1. RokADVrider

    RokADVrider n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2019
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Slovenia
    I bought my 990 in december and yesterday I finally got all the ordered parts. It was a busy day...
    - new tires
    - high fender kit
    - new handguards
    - side stand relocation bracket
    - some carbon fibre
    - replaced some bolts
    20200118_213835.jpg 20200118_213857.jpg 20200118_213929.jpg

    I still have to change the oil, filters, replace the grips and install the heat deamon warmers.
  2. Commiehunter

    Commiehunter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2017
    Oddometer:
    587
    Pulled the oil tank, radiator, and valve covers. Measured valve clearances.
  3. Salzig

    Salzig Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,402
    Location:
    Cremona, Italy
    @RokADVrider nice bike.
    I have the same front brake rotors and they have a little flaw.
    The brake pad contact area is greater then the disk piste and the pads end up wearing out the little bridges that connect the disk to the inner flange via the bushing (I really hope my english make sense).
    Somehow these little bridges wear out faster then the rest of the rotor so you better keep an eye on them.
    Since I only use those disks on my offroad wheels, I also have a set of brake pads with the surplus area grinded out.
    braaap! likes this.
  4. Masso75

    Masso75 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2011
    Oddometer:
    358
    It's time for new piston in my exc 300 IMG-20200104-WA0001.jpg IMG_20200104_154042.jpg IMG-20200116-WA0013.jpg
    zeropoint likes this.
  5. RokADVrider

    RokADVrider n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2019
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Slovenia
    Thank you! I will keep an eye on!
  6. xNOKIAx

    xNOKIAx Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    167
    Location:
    slovakia
    parts for fixing water pump arrived. its expensive :( and I was replacing part of fuel pump in case

    Attached Files:

  7. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    227
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    Please read the manual for mounting my kit carefully and have a good look at the pictures: The crinkle washers are NOT at the correct position. It will not work correctly like this. The crinkle washers need to be between stud and PCB
  8. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,877
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV
    Listen to the Doctor
    Whodatschrome and braaap! like this.
  9. Commiehunter

    Commiehunter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2017
    Oddometer:
    587
    Flipped it upside down. Oh, wait, that was my little one. received_2600350196851863.jpeg
  10. PeterKaa

    PeterKaa Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2015
    Oddometer:
    448
    Location:
    Copenhagen
    image-2020-01-26-19:27:06-662.jpg

    Went overboard with the tripmaster mod*, 2019 V-strom switchgear.
    Looks tidy, but needs a 5 pin relay to work the hi/lo beam.
    The KTM switch has both wired through, the Suki switch is just one signal.

    If I was doing it over again I would settle for the toggle display functionality and buy a switch with a handlebar clamp of amazon.

    * DIY Tripmaster mod (thanks to CJ Racer)
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...J-Racer).731728/&share_type=t&link_source=app
  11. Whodatschrome

    Whodatschrome Long timer

    Joined:
    May 4, 2015
    Oddometer:
    3,000
    Location:
    North of North Plains
    I got some Cyclops Motosport's new 2'' auxiliary LED lights mounted up on the 990 Baja that lives in my shop. It replaces the OEM Trailtech LED lights that only came on the Baja bikes (ktm did also sell the kit separately in their "Hardparts" catalog too). Anyhow, the Cyclops are at least twice as bright, have about 3x the light spread pattern, are a direct plug and play, and best of all they have a super awesome amber colored DRL halo that's fairly bright!
    [​IMG]

    a link to the cyclops lights- https://advrider.com/f/threads/cycl...light-with-drl-daytime-running-light.1421171/
  12. Sir Dookie

    Sir Dookie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    182
    Location:
    Southern Africa
    Took out the previous LED tail Light, and replaced with new one, incl integrated indicators.
    Still have to remove the stalk units.

    Attached Files:

    Whodatschrome, Mane and Mr Head like this.
  13. Unruled

    Unruled 950S

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2012
    Oddometer:
    168
    Location:
    Drugs, wooden shoes and windmills
    Right so the winter period is here (sort of... here in clog country it's not that impressive tbh) and I've decided to do something about my headlight situation. I know that the USA folk love the euro lights because they're simply better, but here in euro land we're still not very impressed by them. Admittedly, with an HID set in there I can see enough, but the parting line is fuzzy so I'm blinding a lot of people. My woman claims she can't even see in her mirrors when I'm riding behind her so to fix that, here's my account of Project Sun.

    Now I know there are a bunch of aftermarket solutions to pick from, but I don't really like any of them. I like the stock shape of the light, and wanted to keep it. But, for much better light distribution I needed to go either with some kind of LED solution, or a bi-xenon projector setup. Or both lol. I choose to buy double bi-xenon projectors. I went to do some drawing and rendering and my first idea looked like this:

    [​IMG]

    Just to be clear, that bit would replace the reflector of the original light, and the entire assembly can pan and tilt like the original light, so that I can get a perfectly aimed beam. Also, note how I added some DRL's for contemporariness :brow

    Personally, I loved the look of that straight away. However, our KTMs are nothing, if not compact. And there's simply no way. The projectors are roughly 6" deep, and there's only about 4" of space in the top section. That won't simply modify to fit. :bluduh So, I went back to the drawing board and decided to see how closely one can place two projectors side by side... and lo and behold, it fits. I'd have to sand the projectors as narrow as I could possibly get them and butt them right up to each other BUT, it fits.

    [​IMG]

    This of course leaves the issue of the high beam, you can't really cut-and-shut the old reflector on top of this fancy new thing and get away with that, so I turned to my parts bin. I just so happened to have lying around two Cree XM-L torches, with 12 XM-Ls each. Now an XM-L is a power LED, not of the newest generation but still, they can produce around 1,000 lumen a piece, so twelve of those qualifies as a high beam I would say. Obviously, the twin bi-xenons also have high beam flaps that will be wired in to work as well. Let's just say I'll be able to see in the dark. Now while prototyping I figured out that this XM-L head wouldn't fit with the continuous DRL bar above the projectors, so that's something I fixed later on. Also, the adjustment arm at the bottom was feeble like this, so I basically beefed the entire thing up a bit. The frame itself remains minimal, most of the rigidity comes from the projectors once screwed in place. Obviously, the back of the housing had to be modified because the projectors protrude backwards too much at this width, and then resealed at the end.

    [​IMG]

    Getting the XM-L head to work as a high beam was a little finicky, by the way. I bought the torches from Ebay a long time ago, so support was no longer available. They had 5 settings (low-mid-high-SOS-strobe), which sucks for high beam usage as it cycled through them each time you turn on the light. So you get a high beam, you just don't know exactly how useful it is going to be before you try. As I couldn't modify the stock driver in the torches, I got a different LED driver (6V output, 9000mA) and rewired the LEDs to work with said driver. I was comtemplating using two drivers, so as to power the LEDs up to maximum, but that would mean a power consumption of over 100W and to be honest I think I'd have some pretty serious heat issues if I were to do that. So half that is fine, it's already over maximum efficiency (more power for a bit more light mostly turns into heat) and still a ridiculous amount of light.

    While figuring all that stuff out, my DRLs arrived. AliExpress junk, so even though they all worked they were kind of fally aparty. Glued all of them back together and while I was preparing to glue them in their respective positions, I found that they just sort of snapped in place. Totally meant to do that, sometimes my engineering genius surprises myself. They don't use fittings, but are soldered in permanently. That's going to be a hassle should one fail at some point, but I'm kind of hoping they just don't. In the mean time, I'd also been working on the shroud for the projectors. I was still playing around with orange at the time, but it's the wrong orange and I wasn't too happy with the look.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    So in the end I went with a blacked out version, made some minor final adjustments to the shroud and printed it in black. Glued the high beam in place, finished up some wiring at the back and whaddayaknow, done! :rayof

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Here's a quick look on how the light seems on the street... camera's can't really capture the true effect, it's massive. All the clicking is relays, it just wouldn't work properly directly off the KTM harness. Also, of course, the projector flaps for the high beam (the 'lower' clicking sound).


  14. Spyrious

    Spyrious Want to go offroad

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2016
    Oddometer:
    206
    Location:
    Greece
    Very nice job!
  15. braaap!

    braaap! Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,478
    Location:
    Here and There
  16. Skellington

    Skellington Pro Coffee Drinker

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2014
    Oddometer:
    343
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Did the high fender conversion on my 990 today and had to figure out the mounting for the brake lines on the triple clamp.
    Cut the original plastic guide in half and on the left side turned it around/upside down and the original mounting hole on the guide slipped over the pin on the new fender. Fits very snug and put a rubber cap on to keep everything in place. On the right side used an extra brake line guide that normally mounts on the subframe and it works well securing the line there. Need to finish up other details later.
    [​IMG]IMG_20200202_141111558
  17. albani

    albani Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2017
    Oddometer:
    195
    Location:
    SF Bay
    Fixed the tiny pad on the kickstand. If it sinks now there's much bigger problems to contend with.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ElwoodBlues and Whodatschrome like this.
  18. albani

    albani Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2017
    Oddometer:
    195
    Location:
    SF Bay
    Found the source of the camchain noise. guide is broken on the front cylinder. Looks like I'll be tearin' it down this weekend instead of riding Johnson Valley for KOH.
    Runout on the balancer bearing is fine. Chains seem ok, fresh tensioners. It could use the later balancer drive gear, oil pressure spring, rear cylinder needs a valve adjustment anyway, and check over the coolant pump.
    I think it's possible to slip a new guide in without pulling the head. I'll do em both while it's apart.

    It's been pretty noisy for a long while now. I don't trust riding it alone out there in this condition. (early 04, 002580 serial on the engine, 73,000 miles)

    [​IMG]
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  19. ElwoodBlues

    ElwoodBlues Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2017
    Oddometer:
    159
    Location:
    Flatland
    Did the same a while ago, best update ever.

    A56CFB97-E8CE-4D40-A615-0E674CBD7406.jpeg
    Jeff Sichoe likes this.
  20. ElwoodBlues

    ElwoodBlues Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2017
    Oddometer:
    159
    Location:
    Flatland
    I’m in the process of swopping the swingarm due to scraping damage from the mudflap. Deepest point seems to be some 2,5mm, anyone know the thickness of the swingarm itself? I’m wondering if it’s a definite scrap or use it as a backup.

    F8D1218F-5BA2-41D0-8593-804A74019DEC.jpeg

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