what oil do you use?

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by hogmolly, Nov 24, 2004.

  1. hogmolly

    hogmolly Dude

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    I'm curious as to what folks are using. I'm torn about using Motorex since it sports the highest friction coefficient around. My clutch doesn't need to grab any better than it already does. I don't like the $12/Qt. price either.

    I'm thinking about M1 15w-50.
    #1
  2. Stephen

    Stephen Long timer Supporter

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    Factory Motorex.
    Mostly cuz it's right there at the dealer, and my dealer is actually closer than any auto parts store.

    I plan to switch to M1 a couple of changes from now.

    BTW, my 950 has 8800 mile on it now, runs great, likes synth. And likes to be run hard. What a joy it is.
    #2
  3. racer

    racer Long timer

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    Haven't done it yet, but next oil change will be Rotella. I understand it has the extra additives that are no longer available in the automotive oils, and are included in the motorcycle specific oils. The advantages are availability (Walmart) and cost a lot less the the four dollar stuff.
    #3
  4. dedes (sas)

    dedes (sas) Been here awhile

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    till now seems to work well both for the machine and the clutch (full synth)
    #4
  5. hogmolly

    hogmolly Dude

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    :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
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  6. BigMac

    BigMac Been here awhile

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    I'm curious where you heard Motorex has "highest friction coefficient". In general, the synthetic base stock oils, which I presume Motorex fits into, have relatively low friction coefficient. Then again many "synthetic" oils are petroleum base stock that is modified -- Castrol Syntec for example, but US Courts decided in their favor because Mobil could not adequately define what a "synthetic oil" is. No matter, I'm not paying $12/qt for motor oil when there are quality alternatives for 50% less.

    To your inquiry, I'd personal worry less about brand and more about viscosity. If you are having sticky clutch issues on a wet clutch bike, especially one that is water-cooled, I would try lower viscosity lube. Any 10w-40 "true" synthetic, especially the poly-esther base stock oils (Redline) can easily handle any heat encountered in such an engine design. Remember also that ALL motor oil gains viscosity with usage, even faster in an integrated engine-tranny setup like most of today's motorbike designs. I would also recommend an oil intended for usage with wet clutches, they will usually say so on label or will be described as having "high sheer strength".

    FWIW: I use Redline 10w-40 in my 950 S even though I had a case of 20w-50 in garage that I use in oilhead and Ducati motors, based on what folks have mentioned regarding wet clutch problems, which I have not experienced to date with about 8500 miles on the clock. take care
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  7. hogmolly

    hogmolly Dude

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    The Motorex website boasts about their high friction coefficient which is good for racing.

    The redline you use has a very high concentration of moly. If your not experiencing any clutch issues, then M1 15w-50 should work great. Thanks for the post.
    #7
  8. ktm wench

    ktm wench Adventurer

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    on the oil bit has anybody tryed caltex delo xld multi-grade 10-40 fullysyn. in there m/c wet clutch
    #8
  9. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    Mobil 1 "Red Cap" 15-50 (After plenty of break-in miles.)



    Not sure, but I don't think it is sold/marketed here in the USofA under that name.
    #9
  10. Prutzer

    Prutzer Hinterradspezi

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    I use Q8 sbk racing 10w50 full synthetic, no problems with clutch what so ever. And al low oil consumption compared to the motorex!! :freaky :freaky :thumb :thumb
    #10
  11. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    I have tried a few brands of oil in my bike (motorex, mobil 1, , amsoil, belray- all full synth cycle oils) and I think BigMac is right on the money in regards to viscosity. I have found the clutch to operate noticeably better with 10-40 than the higher weights, and I think any of the synth motorcycle oils that meet the JASO rating will work just fine. I think it is more a matter of availibility than brand at this point- I'd go with what meets the rating and is the easiest to get in your area.
    #11
  12. Will

    Will Carpe Moto.

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    I wonder if I have my definitions backwards. I thought oils lost viscosity with usage. They get thinner, right?

    Once all that gets worked out: I'm using Mobil 1 for V-Twins right now, but based on experience with the LC4, I think I'll go with Mobil 1 (under the red cap, read the label) next time. I'm less convinced that it matters as much as KTMs marketing department wants me to believe. A local drag-racing bike/engine builder says I should try the Royal Purple that he sells. It's tempting (he should know what makes a clutch work) until i remember that he has probably never gone 3000 miles (+) on 3 liters....

    One time I used a thinner oil than is called for (I used a 5W40 in warm weather) and the valve-train made much racket on startup. Maybe the marketing department does know something.
    #12
  13. richc

    richc Long timer

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    I use Motorex - it's what my owners manual said to use.
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  14. kailwathne

    kailwathne Adventure Rider

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    I use the motorex also. no problems. 8500 miles
    #14
  15. Katoum

    Katoum Adventurer

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    I'm going to go out on a limb and try Chevron Delo 400 Full Synthetic 15-40. I use it in my Powerstroke, and it only $75 for a 20 litre pail, in Canadian Peso's.

    I will not be able to report back on how it works on solving the clutch creep for many months however, it started snowing today. :cry
    #15
  16. FastEddieB

    FastEddieB Been here awhile

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    That's Benson's 4th law.

    Within limits, of course.

    What I'm trying to say is that ANY quality oil of approximately the right weight should work fine.

    How many of you have damaged your bikes in a way that could be traced to inadequate lubrication that was traced to oil choice? Not many, I'd guess.

    FWIW, I've been running Mobil 1 15w50 (auto) in all my bikes, and plan to on my 950 when an oil change comes due. It's reasonably priced and just a WalMart away. As a data point, I just replaced one shim on my K1200RS at 67,000 miles. I've seen pictures of shims with rectangular wear patterns from the cam - mine looked nearly new - no wear pattern and the circular tooling marks still visible. That bike has run Mobil 1 for nearly all of it's life, changed at the recommended 6,000 mile intervals.
    #16
  17. Bazza

    Bazza Adventurer

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    I use Valvoline Racing Oil in my 1978 R100S. After reviewing the spec. this oil has the correct percentages of all the right additives. $2 per qt. at the local auto parts store. Bike has 82k miles. Last Summer traveled from the big D to the BRP in NC and back. Mostly over 4000 rpm all the time and my scooter used .6 qt. of oil.

    Bazza
    R100S
    Texas
    #17
  18. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    For years I have just run Castrol GTX in my bikes and changed it a lot- even my ice racers. I never had any sort of failure that I could have claimed was caused by the oil. That said, I do think that on motorcycles that share their tranny and engine oil, a blend made specificly for motorcycles is a good idea. Much has been written about the needs of a transmission oil versus a motor oil- shear strength, viscosity, pourability at cold temps, wet adherance, and on and on. In a nutshell, there is a very good reason to use an engine oil in the front part of your BMW and a gear oil back where all the gears live. The Motorcycle oils are designed to work in both areas, and with an engine like the 950 I think spending a little more for a bike oil will be worth the expense. I never ran the GTX for more than 2000 miles, for example, but with the new synths the KTM's change interval is (shocking to me) 5K.
    #18
  19. fess

    fess Adventurer

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    Just got my bike back from the dealer for an oil change. When I asked what they used, I was told regular old 10-40 dino oil that meets all the specs. When I asked if they shouldn't be using synthetic, I was told dino oil is better in the clutch. I dunno, runs fine.
    #19
  20. overlandr

    overlandr Dystopist

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    I got a good deal on 4 litres of Motul 300v 15w-50 Competition for my LC4 - sort of half price at AUD45 or USD36. Chose the higher viscosity as ambient temps always well over freezing and believe its a 100% PAO base. Haven't tried it on road yet as bike still in workshop.
    #20