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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by MGV8, Nov 3, 2012.
Careful Brian that dirt may be the only thing holding it together.
You are a brave, brave man.
Must be nice to have a big space to work, with good lighting.
I think I'm going to stay with a Moto tire up front. of course it will give me a bit more foot print. I do plan on a bunch more gravel travel ( we have an excess) for this rig so the Moto tires will probably work best.
After three trips into the Calcium Chloride they use up North it is baked on. Taking quite a bit of scrubbing to get it off, you might be right.
They steer better in the loose stuff the wide ones 165-175 float more and steering gets vague a big moto tire would be my choice also for your locale.
Do you use vinegar or a commercial calcium chloride neutralizer product?
It depends on if you want to float on top or dig in, each has it's place. It was a lesson leaned when I moved from the Southern California desert up to Montana, & Wyoming mud & snow. Bottomless soft sandy dirt you want to float, mud & snow you want to dig down into it.
Strong Bad, post: 41634627, member: 73261"]Do you use vinegar or a commercial calcium chloride neutralizer product
No, just a good commercial soap and an industrial cleaner with lots of scrubbing. I'll have to look into something like that. The frame that is the worst is clean enough now. the next step is some sanding and new paint. It would be nice to be able to get into all the nooks and crannies of the bike to get it out of there but I think it will be there till the bike is dead and goes to crush
Something like this:
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Sa...based products, Salt,salt, brine and ice melt.
Seriously you should try spraying vinegar on and let it soak. It's no so acidic as to attack most coatings.
Cool I will look for some of this, I definitely will use some vinegar. Never heard that before, strange as I live in Salt country. They are now spraying out almost daily on the roads.
Who knew, there is a whole industry for this. Now I'm even more confused than before.
I'd think you wold want to remove or neutralize that before paint. It might just react to the new paint and bubble it.
I was thinking of using the neutralizer on the existing paint & bits to clean it. If the existing paint is to be stripped off before re-painting I'm guessing you shouldn't have any calcium chloride left to neutralize?
I haven't totally decided but I'm probably going to sand and paint the frame. That's not what I'm fussing over, it's more the left overs on the rest of the bike. Once I have it as a roller again I am going to try the vinegar thing. Lots of suds after.
So between posting here, having a little winter fun I still managed to get a bit done.
This showed up but of course I didn't have the right socket at home to torque it in properly-- 310.00 Can. bucks plus the nut and freight, Beejessus !!
I usually drop the diff for a spline check every winter, Plus check the feel of the U joints. Don't need another drive shaft fail some where in the hinter land. Every thing looks and feels good.
Then I just give every thing a good look over-- Hmmm
The sign of rust or a rusty spot always means movement. Been loose for a while, and no I haven't touched this one before. Not my fault honest! I fix and tighten as I see em.
These bits are going to the paint shop for a touch up.
I think the tub is good enough-- it has a few rock chips but nothing serious. I am going to re-do the rock guard on the inside and on the bottom. Notice the plug for LBS-USA
Normally at this time of year the shop is a tad slow. This year my apprentice is off at school and my old tech is on Sick Leave. Car Crash. So that leaves one tech and ME! The damn cars won't fix them selves. Anyways after work I get a bit of time. I talked with Jeff at the Beemershop about the shocks. He needs a bunch of info that I just don't have to set the spring rate on the front shock so I can re-purpose it as the car shock. So to do that I need to assemble every thing which means fixing/making the new shock mount on the swing arm. In the mean time I am going to send off just the rear shock for a rebuild. Looks like the chrome has some off the shaft which would be why it is leaking. I'll sort the shipping tomorrow.
Tonight I, bead blasted the swing arm , knocked the bearings out and cut the Ural shock mount off. Should I say it basically fell off. In my ignorant bliss avoided rescue again.
Some times we get lucky
I'll have to partially put the frame back together so I can get the new shock mount in the correct position. Then Fab and paint every thing. Fun Fun, more to come.
If you do a mix of baking soda and water to rinse your parts in after the vinegar treatment instead of suds and then rinse in clean water it will be better.
Lets just hope they never make the mistake of substituting Calcium Chloride with Calcium Carbide!
True, but I might be using some on this project.
If you ever do need to do a drive shaft, Ted Porter's Beemer Shop sells a great rebuildable one. https://www.beemershop.com/category/clutch-drivetrain.html
They have my rear shock at the moment. Some discussion as to whether I have the right spring on it. Jeff wants me to measure a bunch of stuff before he is happy. Of course with the rig in pieces it is hard to do. Plus he needs some measurements so we can re-spring the other shock. I was getting things ready so I could send stuff off for powder coat but will have to wait as I have to re-asssemble a bit first. Time at the moment for working on my own stuff seems to be in short supply. Next week Maybe! I did finally have that eureka moment and am happy with the new shock mount. Just have to build it now.
Right way up??
Nope, this works way better, Not sure why it took all after noon to try this.
More to come
Is that a track sled in the background ? With the roto pax on the back. Fat tire bike trail groomer ?