What the Frig do I do now

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by MGV8, Nov 3, 2012.

  1. TurTal

    TurTal Long timer

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    I'm prototyping a neat mod at the swingarm...that's all I'm gonna say about that right now

    The reason I'm telling ya that is if you want to wire a moving part create a half loop at the axis

    Strap the 1st bend at the stationary point and then strap the 2nd bend at the moving point

    It only takes an inch or so as the fulcrum moves very little

    In Telecom we refer to this as an active strain relief

    If done correctly the wire does not bend nor move

    It remains static in a dynamic situation

    You probably already know all that...but if ya didn't there it is

    I've never had a failure with a live wire or bundle configured in this manner

    Multi strand is best but even single copper can be set to work this way



    I could make a little model to show ya what I'm talkin bout but I'm pretty sure ya get the gist
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  2. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    Got it, done that before. I am not sure if I have enough length, but I'll play this weekend.

    On another issue, got the shock and springs sorted. Should see them back in a couple of weeks provided Tractive has the new shaft. If I can finish my part we should be ready when spring is fully here.
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  3. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    As our weather improves here North of the 49th I am getting itchy to get out and about. Snow biking and Grooming are done with. Last weekend I got the spring garden chores done. Have to keep Mrs. MG happy.
    So this weekend I got to fuss over the tub. Looking close I really should have had it re-painted but then it would just get chipped up again. It is really not that bad just patina which goes with the rest of the bike.
    I did add a little additional protection for the roads ahead.
    tempImagecpu6zD.jpg


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    My rattle can skills need lots of masking.
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    Might as well do the inside of the fender.
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    While waiting for paint to dry, I started the rest of the assembly on the tug.

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    Working with and seeing some of Mike of LBS-USA fame has shamed me into cleaning up some of my wiring. I don't think I will ever be able to match his quality. I'm working on it OK!! :D
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    Turned out pretty good.
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    Finished up the day giving the inside a touch up.
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    More to come
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  4. LBS-USA

    LBS-USA Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Looking good! Could you share what final spring rate was selected for that lovely shock on the tub?
    MGV8 likes this.
  5. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    I will as soon as I get it. Jeff told me but I don't remember exact numbers. It is about half of what it is right now.
  6. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

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    What is the big, black think sticking out of the side of the sidecar trunk? A winder for the main spring?
  7. FLYING EYEBALL

    FLYING EYEBALL out of step

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    looks like a rotopax thingy.
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  8. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    That is how I wind up the ejection seat :lol3 Actually the holder for my Rotopax fuel cans.
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  9. LBS-USA

    LBS-USA Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Sorry, saw that shiny new shock and thought you already got it back! I may have noted previously, TT initially selected a spring rate of 90Nm based on requests from previous purchasers of shocks for sidecars. I found that to be unusable stiff, almost no sag with me standing on the chassis step. TT-USA we good enough to swap the springs, initial sag seems about right, waiting on a license plate to do a first test ride.
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  10. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    I thought I had written it down at work, what Jeff had figured out but being me, no. The one on there is a 60-205 24/15 make sense? The new one is about half of this. It was the spec for the front of the rig and I thought it was a bit too stiff in that position. Way too stiff on the car. Like you I can hardly move it jumping on the frame. I'll post numbers as soon as I get the new spring. The delay factor on the shock is that it needs a new shaft, Pitting from too much calcium chloride exposer . The rear shock is getting a stiffer spring. I think it is going to be a whole new riding experience.
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  11. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    Seems I have it wrong.
    3D27C1C4-91A8-440C-A542-991A9F48C298.jpeg
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  12. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    Finished up the wiring today. Basically just cleaned things up a bit. It has survived 5 years the way I had it, It should go another 5.
    Many tie wraps later we have this.
    tempImageF5MVEt.jpg

    Got the lights cleaned up and installed, new bulbs and a little paint touch up. Tested and working

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    Time to put the tub on for the final time.

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    There almost ready. Just waiting on the re built rear shock and the lighter spring for the car shock to arrive. They have been shipped. Jeff phone to apologize that the shock protecter that he had almost insisted that I get, were on back order. Coming soon. I agreed that, yes, it was a good idea. The one that I had cobbled together didn't really do it's job. But then I am not sure any would on our Northern highways.
    Any ways together again, waiting patiently to test out the new front end.
    tempImagehRbYn8.jpg

    More to come
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  13. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    Ok Almost there. Rear shock and the New spring arrived from the Beemer Shop. Just awesome service. Rear shock was an easy install.
    Same for the spring on the re-purposed front shock. Helps when you have the right equipment.
    tempImagewUTvox.jpg
    Showing the Spring rate for those that want to know.

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    The old bits from the rear shock-- if you look close you can see the pitting on the shaft. Just too much muck sitting on it for two long.


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    The 20 mm of preload that Jeff recommended.
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  14. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    With shocks in hand the install was straight forward. I also installed my old steering Damper. It is not a perfect fit but will do until I can get a good one. The new one I ordered that I thought would work won't so it gets shelved for future projects. I had an old Alternator adjusting bracket in my bucket of stuff which made adjusting the length a easy as can be. I just have to make up a fixed one now. Before I do I am going to test with and with out to see how it does. Ad says I shouldn't need one but Mike insists that I do. We shall see.
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    I do have 4 different positions that I can set trail with. I am starting here, which I think is the most? I can reduce from here.
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    I actually road tested a bit today, just up and down the street. Steers just fine but I never got to speed. I still have a front brake issue. I cleaned and rebuilt the front callipers last year, I had trouble getting a firm brake lever. I believe the pistons are not sliding through the seals to adjust properly. The seal flexes enough to apply then pulls the piston back away enough to give no feel. If I pump once or twice I have a firm lever. I had it working good last year so will fuss with it next weekend. There is a slight possibility I have some air but it doesn't feel like it. Who needs front brakes any ways LOL
    AS it was a Beauty of a day, first real warm one of the year and the bikes were out of the shop, I spent the day cleaning and organizing.
    You don't see this often.
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    Even space to work around both bikes. Who knew!!
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    The other thing that showed up was the classic Flashing ABS light. Out with the GS911 to see why. I had already had it on the bike doing the bleed procedure. No codes for the ABS so I hadn't messed up any sensors with it all apart. No speed reading from the front wheel. Bugger!!!.
    I have learned over the many years of solving issues that it is best to walk away. The old brain is churning away in the back ground while I do other things.
    The sensor is good, the tone wheel has the right number of holes, smaller yes but so is the wheel. It should at least register something.
    After dinner, out to the shop. Hook up the 911 for the third time. First I check that the rear is working, reads just fine.
    Maybe its a gap issue, nope. Checking how it is mounted in the old fork, hmmm I wonder. Hold the sensor at 90 degree to it's mounted position, Voila I have a reading.
    So I know it works. Should turn the light out. So question is. Did Ad mess up on the mounting position, More than likely not. Do I have something mounted wrong. More than likely yes, but it all fit together so nicely this way. We'll get it sorted, I do love a puzzle.
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    More to come
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  15. Strong Bad

    Strong Bad Former World's Foremost Authority Supporter

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    So well organized you have room for a potted palm in your garage? Even with a canoe hanging from the rafters? Are those "I" beams for a hoist I see? AND is that an wing (Aileron ?). You can tell a lot about guy by his workspace and you seem to have your space well sorted! My garage is more like 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag.:lol3

    I agree with the "Just walk away" technique for solving problems. It just keeps you relaxed enough where you don't start forcing stuff and really buggering it up.

    Your LL builder has a brilliant way to make the trail adjustment with the offset holes in the bracket giving you a total of 4 different positions. I love it!

    Being a closed system, getting air in brake lines is pretty hard to do unless you've opened it up or run the reservoir dry. You can also try applying the brake and strapping the lever so it stays applied overnight. I use a length of double sided Velcro strap wrapped around my front brake as a parking brake, something like that would work for an overnight attempt. This is said to allow air bubbles to slowly rise up to the reservoir.
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  16. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    Thanks, Not always this neat. Done a lot of stuff in the "shop" over the years. The wing is a copy of the one I built years ago. For a friends Hillclimb/ time attack car. This one is going to be foam core/fiberglass instead of aluminum construction. Lighter I think. WE have stalled on that project as there is no need as there is no racing any where close since Covid hit.
    I had the Caliper/ soft brake lever last year after going through the front brakes. New pistons and seals. I bled the shit out of them and it slowly resolved it's self. Pads seated into the old rotors etc etc. there might be a slight bit of air trapped in the fork brace as I have only one brake line from there and a blanking plug on the other side. I will maybe reverse pressure bleed or try your method. Still it feels just like the calipers are retracting just that much to cause a long stroke. Sort of like a warped rotor and wilwood calipers with no residual pressure valve. Ask how I know that!!! I always do a double tap on the brake pedal now any time I'm racing.
  17. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    So sometime when you head into new territory with mechanical things there are usually issues to sort out. Stuff maybe that wasn't quite worked out or maybe yours is just not the same as the one that was the prototype. I did a bunch of thinking on the ABS issue. I do deal with these things at work almost every day so it should be a no brainer really. After a bunch of Emails with Mike it was confirmed that I had the right parts. I was still a bit sceptical, well just because I am a sceptical person.


    Here is my wheel and tone wheel
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    Here is a picture of Ad's Bike
    Same year 1200 GS. I used this as a reference for assembly.
    361A1CF0-8C34-416D-8C4A-EC9283010DE8.jpeg
    See the difference.
    Anyways assured that it should work from both Ad and Mike, I am curious to see if I can make it work. But not until I have a plan.

    In the mean time I have a promise to complete. A friend in my riding group is doing his winter service and wanted to check his cam timing. Apparently most of them are out a bit. I just happen to have the tools and it turns out his was out just a fraction. Besides it gives me a wonderful excuse to ride the new bike-- Makes me wonder if putting a side car on it is the right thing. It is but it still makes me wonder.
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    The inside of a water boxer.
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    Cam setting bar in place
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    Torque is important.

    On the way home I found some Gravel close to home I haven't done before. Always something new just in your back yard.
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    I have a plan
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  18. MGV8

    MGV8 Long timer Supporter

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    There is always a two steps forward and one step backwards with most projects that I do. Also with most of the diagnostics that we perform at the shop, there is a lot of research and such before you actually test. Then when you test you are looking for expected results But I get ahead of myself. First I carefully measured and drilled and tapped a hole to relocate the sensor.
    tempImage5ArKuu.jpg

    Once this was done I had to lengthen the harness. I didn't want to cut the sensor harness so decided to add length before the connector. So this is where the steps backwards come in. Off with the trim and the fuel tank again.
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    Doing my best to keep it neat and tidy. It was nice I had some wire that was just the right size.


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    By not completing my insulation with the heat shrink, I gave me a good spot to test from. BMW it would seem uses 8 volts for their ABS sensors, I was curious as most I deal with are 5 or 12 volts. This one uses a biased voltage, so it has a permanent magnet in the sensor which senses the holes in the tone wheel , which then the magnetic field changes varies the voltage that is sent through the sensor. Best I can do to describe how it works. Also explains why it didn't work 90 degrees out. They are more accurate than the older style and the ABS ECU can tell if there is an open or short circuit. I had no sensor codes so I knew my sensor was good.
    My leads
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    The scope pattern I got.

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    As you can see there is very little voltage variation but it is what I expected and it is what it needs to work. I don't think that one could see this variation with a DVOM

    Took me a while to find a scope pattern that I wanted for a picture. This is an old scope that we no longer use at work, but similar to the new one we have at the shop just not as up to date. I just never liked how Snap-on does their scope. I hire young smart guys who are way ahead of this old guy so I give them the tools they need, they like the Snap-on. I usually work with my old Dinosaur MT5200 Vetronics and can adjust it any way from Sunday. Still a good scope but old school. We only keep it around now because it has a really good ignition scope which I bring out now and then to show off to the young guys. Most of them are younger than the car we are testing. Distributor What's That?? LOL

    tempImagemL0GKJ.jpg

    So the plan worked. I got the results that I expected. I buttoned up the bike again. Fussed with the front callipers that I was having a hard time bleeding. Discovered again that the order of the front wheel, hub and callipers has to be done just so. It will be a bit a pain to change out a front wheel and tire on the road if I ever have to. Deal with it, right! On the ground again I clear any codes that I have set with every thing disconnected and road test. Voila No ABS light. Yippee! Brakes work fine. Even the ABS works as it's supposed to. I still wonder if the speed differential between the front and rear will mess with things but for the moment the bike is happy. Even have front brakes, which is always a good thing. So just one last thing and I can insure and go ride. I had left the new front fender to last. some good coats of Rock guard on the inside and some trim paint to dull the shine of the gel coat on the out side. And we're ready.

    More to come
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  19. steam powered

    steam powered just a regular punk

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    Ummm, I think you have the caliper mounting bracket on backwards. If you look at the pictures of Ad's bike, you will see that the brake reaction arm mount is toward the front caliper and the shock passes behind it. The picture of your mount shows the mount towards the rear most caliper when rotated into position. Turning this around should move the ABS sensor into the correct position.
    Also fit the calipers to the bracket before fitting the bracket to the bike as the disc prevents the fitting one of the lock nuts to the caliper bolts. I had to fit the calipers to the bracket, then align the calipers on the disc/hub before finally fitting the wheel, and only then offering it up to the swingarm to fit and push through the axle.
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  20. LBS-USA

    LBS-USA Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Jun 21, 2020
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    Seattle, WA
    Hey Amigo, if you're having buyers remorse, I'll be happy to take that lovely OVERLAND, and THOSE WHEELS off your hands ;<)

    Nice work on the wheelspeed sensor, for someone who claims to be old-school, you're pretty high-tech!
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