Wheel bearing disintegrates - F800

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by tmex, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. machinebuilder

    machinebuilder Long timer

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    Any industrial supply house will have them

    MSC industrial is one online source.

    Get double sealed bearings and check them when you change tires. All 5 bearings should cost about $50-75.

    According to a NSK bearing rep if you pull a seal out you just ruined it. Proper bearing grease is about 1/3 full, more grease builds heat and melts the grease so it runs out.
  2. tofire409

    tofire409 Geared up and ready.

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    Any place that sells double sealed bearings will have what you need. But the MFG uses very little grease.

    Sealed and "greased"…as you hopefully see it's why Woody's Wheel Works takes the seals off and adds much more.


    [​IMG]


    Greased better on one side than the other
    [​IMG]

    not a great shot, but very little grease is present on the other side

    [​IMG]

    The rear bearings have roughly 7000km's on them and are still smooth!

    These are a spare set, pre greased and frozen for when I need them.

    [​IMG]
  3. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last Super Supporter

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    Somewhere in this thread are all the specs....am on the road in Germany right now...a rough seat of the pants number you can use for alloy hubs is .0005" crush per 1" of bearing diameter...hence a 6204 bearing is circa 2" in diameter so you want the OD of bearing minus 2x .0005 = .001" of crush

    Hence take the exact OD of bearing and subtract .001" if the ID of bore is smaller than that figure you are most likely a candidate for the bearings overheating and seizing like so many have done before .... :cry:cry:cry

    Good luck
    :freaky
    Woody
  4. SpottheDogg

    SpottheDogg Been here awhile

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    My understanding is oil would be better than grease, a bearing full of grease is not great. Most bearings are about 30% full of grease, with use the heat will disperse this grease. I always find it strange that people insist they know better than the experts that make their entire reputation on (bearings)


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  5. Rgconner

    Rgconner Long timer

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    Grease is just oil suspended in a soap matrix.

    Unless it is completely sealed, it ought to be serviceable.
  6. Big Duke 6

    Big Duke 6 Been here awhile

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    Well, the other day I decided to put on the new Heidenau K60 that had arrived. As usual, with a wheel off, it's a good idea to give the bearings a spin with a finger. Things did seem a bit rough or "notchy" and as I had heard mention of this problem a while back, figured it was time to get to it.

    I started some searching' and of course a first stop is here at Wildman's tech sticky- Thanks for the effort WM. I found this thread and the results are-

    I started on the drive side (chain), I did the bearing in the drive hub and it really didn't feel too bad when I took it out. I did the bearing in the wheel hub (next one in from the drive hub) next. Same thing really not bad, perhaps a little worn. I was beginning to question my initial diagnosis but I can't stop at this point- so on to the third bearing.

    The third bearing is the one at the brake rotor and through the/my readings, the one most was having trouble with. Yep, I caught this just in time. The bearing had really lost it's ability to be a bearing as when you put a finger in the axel hole (to hold the center) and then tried to spin the outside- almost not possible.

    I'm almost thinking that part of the initial "notcheyness" was the outermost bearings half picking up the internal spacer and sorta "slip-driving" the one on the other end of the spacer.

    I did open up the new bearings and add grease as there sure wasn't much in them. I did get the Tusk blind bearing puller and it was worth it.
    I can now really recommend riders check their wheels/bearings by whatever method you have. If your not sure how to take your wheel(s) off, the Globerider DVD is an excellent way to learn and see how it's done.

    The bearings and seals are really common, I got mine from Action Bearing in Boston- seals and bearings (including 1 extra of everything) about $100.00.

    Thanks for everyones input.

    BD6
    Bike has just shy of 13,000 miles
  7. Pangit

    Pangit Been here awhile

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  8. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    12 pack anyone?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/261477897793?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    He has 150 of these.

    I've been using the looser C3 bearing clearance (6204-2RSH/C3) as given to me by the shops. Less prone to overheating but you guys with your off roading and sunny CA locations aren't.

    Maybe I should just get a dozen regular............
  9. LeighAnderson

    LeighAnderson Adventurer

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    My 2010 F650GS experienced rear bearing failure on a highway trip at 60K miles. I felt a handling instability at highway speed, similar to riding over grooved pavement. The actual pavement was very smooth, otherwise I might have ignored the small direction shifts. I pulled over to investigate and heard a clattering coming from the rear as I coasted to a stop. I didn't know what was wrong then, but clearly the bike was not safe to ride. Had it towed to a BMW dealer. Repairs cost about US$275.

    Should I proactively replace the front bearings also?
  10. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    60K miles is waaay OVERDUE!

    ALL of them.
  11. BlauZahn

    BlauZahn n00b

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    I found shaft seals part# A-S30X47X7 at allpartsstore.com and AG Tractor Supply for $2.68 each. BMW wants $15.60 each for these things. The dimensions are listed at 30 x 47 x 7 (mm). Anybody think these would fit? Hey...if it works on a $350,000 John Deere, it's probably good enough for an itty bitty motorcycle. Eh?
  12. yaycep

    yaycep Been here awhile

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    They surely fit as long as they have the right dimensions. I replaced mine with NSK bearings and whichever branded seals the shop had.
  13. Rider 101

    Rider 101 Time poor

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    Change a tyre; change a bearing. No big deal, no big price. No excuse for collapsed bearings.
  14. Snowy

    Snowy Long timer

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    I have found that not regreasing the bearings means they last just as long as regreasing them.

    Moly grease didn't make them last longer.

    Teflon grease didn't make them last longer.

    Marine grease didn't make them last longer.

    They are simply too small with too light a maximum load rating.
  15. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    So ... 76 pages worth of cussing about bearings ....
    is there a nice one page "how-to" thread that captures the process of replacing them? :lol3

    How's this:

    buy good quality non-Chinese bearings you need five 6204-2RS rated C3 & new seals - get these from bearing supply house to save money over the Bring-More-Wallet prices...
    Heat hub (?) knock out old bearings with punch - might be easier with expansion bolt / rawl bolt inserted into old bearing to knock them out?
    Freeze new bearings & heat hub drop or lightly tap in new bearings tapping only on the OUTER race
    Re-assemble

    What did I miss?
  16. sarathmenon

    sarathmenon Armchair Adventurer

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    Stop being a buzz killer. 76 pages about bearings is better than 100 pages on tires.
    Nickhob likes this.
  17. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    or ... 200 pages on oil?
    or ... 300 pages on lubing your chain ... :imaposer
  18. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    Push left to go left works at all speeds above zero.
  19. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    I'll be at your place soon enough.

    I get the BIG hammer. :rofl
  20. sarathmenon

    sarathmenon Armchair Adventurer

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    I probably shouldn't ask this, but what sort of orgies do you guys get into?