Where are your XT250's...let's see them.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MEDIC-0372, Nov 4, 2008.

  1. randypower

    randypower Been here awhile Supporter

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    MitchG, good stuff. Thanks for sharing what you discover. I'd like to see pics of your new dashboard (bars, accessories, and windscreen) when done.
  2. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    I had a longer brake line made at Greenline hose here in Calgary dropped it off and then went for coffee they called an hour later and said it was ready. $45.00 I see they have locations in Edmonton also. There is a private guy here in Calgary who makes them also I have his name and number if you want it. Hel is here also
  3. Cyclepath

    Cyclepath Lost wanderer

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    most NAPA auto parts stores will make up custom length hydraulic cables. Just tell them it's for an off road quard or motorcycle as there is some stupid government laws regarding the use of highway or street legal vehicles. I have had several cables and hydraulic lines made by NAPA
    randypower likes this.
  4. MitchG

    MitchG Iron Collector

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    Ha! See, now I have a reason to run down to Calgary! I'll talk to Hel and Greenline on Monday, but if there are issues I may hit you up for the private guys contact info. Thanks.
  5. ONE2NINE

    ONE2NINE Been here awhile

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    Campbell, NY
    Finding a bunch of conflicting info on an air box mod for the newer fuel injected models. Has anyone drilled a hole in the air box lid and seen an improvement? I’ve found a couple examples of people drilling a 1” hole in the lid and replacing with foam. Is it worthwhile?
  6. biker

    biker Adventurer

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    No
  7. Cyclepath

    Cyclepath Lost wanderer

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    It is not worth while. Don't do it. All your going to do id make your air intake noise louder. It gets plenty of air the way it is. it's not a high performance engine and if you punch holes in your air box to give it more air your computerized fool injection system will simple compensate for.
    Xiola_Blue likes this.
  8. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    I tried lifting up the airbox lid, by putting large nuts under it, around longer screws. Never noticed any power or noise difference. Eventually went back to the OEM design.
    Xiola_Blue likes this.
  9. dav

    dav Bonsai

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    Great day for a gallop.

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  10. Lightyear68

    Lightyear68 Adventurer

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    Hoping to get some help from the XT community:

    I bought this XT250 with 1K and have ridden it another 1K so far. I don't recall hearing a clank when the engine is shut down until recently.

    Oil was 1/4 quart low--so I added until the oil view glass shows half. Still making the noise during shut down. Not always, but most of the time. Same noise shutting down in N or 1.

    Is this normal? Not sure if it's something to get checked out at the dealer, or the normal sound of shutting down.

    Here's the video. It's the clank at the very end of the shut down, that last sound heard.
  11. Andy_A

    Andy_A Adventurer

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    mine makes a very similar sound so I would say it is normal.
  12. biker

    biker Adventurer

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    Normal
  13. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Normal.
  14. Halifax614

    Halifax614 Misadventurer

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    Mine goes clunk too.

    On another matter, I have just had a second XT250 starter relay fail due un-soldered & corroded internal coil connections. Two different bikes;- carby one failed in 2016 at about 3 yrs old, the other EFI one recently at approx. 5 - 6 yrs. old. Signs are intermittent operation of the starter progressing to nil operation. Fault - finding with a meter showed 12v getting to the relay coil & a high resistance across it separately; a little jiggling of the connector & away she goes. Inspection showed slight green corrosion on the push-on terminal of the +ve wire in the plug. With the relay removed & on the bench it was easy to see similar problems with the external coil terminals. Removed the fuse mounting plastic fitting & carefully cut open the sealed relay to find corrosion & overheating evident on both coil wires where they were wrapped about 3/4 around their tags but totally un-soldered ex: factory. Of course it's not going to work for long like that....

    Dismantled view (@ 20%).jpg Here are the parts after the rear cover is removed

    Corrosion & no solder on terminals (@ 20%).jpg This shows the black, overheated & high resistance coil terminations

    Carefully pulled back the tabs, removed wire ends & extracted terminals, cleaned everything up to a shiny copper colour with emery & sandpaper, re-assembled & soldered as it should have been from day one. Now seeing about 4 or 5 ohms across the coil & a bench test confirmed proper optn. Glued it all back together with epoxy adhesive, re-tested OK & re-fitted to bike. All fine.
    Soldered (@ 20%).jpg

    Not good that it should happen in the first place; very poor quality control that the same faulty component is on machines that are perhaps 2 to 3 years apart in production. This repair fixed the problem with both items. The relay is manufactured by JIDECO & is common to many Yamaha automotive products. Who knows how many are like this? Must help their parts sales.....
    It so happened that after the first one failed back in 2016, I had bought a new spare (from the original manufacturer, though it came from Germany) on the internet at about 10% of the price that Yamaha charge out here. It is marked Yamaha 450/a14082600ux0528. The Yamaha factory part no. is 4YR-81940-02.
    I opened the new one up yesterday just to see:- what do you know? It was soldered.

    Note:- Edited to add Yamaha factory part no. as above.
  15. randypower

    randypower Been here awhile Supporter

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    Halifax, that's great info and pictures. Thanks for sharing. It will be useful to anyone coming across the same problem.

    Living in Texas with very hot summers, I'd think I'm more at risk than average.

    Is it possible the relays have always come soldered from the factory? I'm not an expert in electronics, but I understand that high heat can make solder evaporate.
  16. Halifax614

    Halifax614 Misadventurer

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    No; these were totally dry joints from day one;- not a trace of any other substance. It's true that solder joints can go brittle & open-circuit with age; seen it before on avionics circuit boards where you sometimes need to de-solder & then re-solder every damned component joint to solve an intermittent fault.
    Usual lead/tin solder melts at around 190C. Even Texas & Queensland don't get quite that warm [yet].
    Lightyear68 and randypower like this.
  17. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    Don't forget that electricity going through any substance will cause heat, and almost any connection or tight bend in the wire will cause extra resistance, and heating, so it's possible that energizing the solenoid has caused the solder to melt and dissipate. If I were going to re-solder those joints, I'd look for a high-temperature solder. I'm sure Halifax knows not to use acid core solder, but some others may need to be warned. The acid is N/G for electrical equipment. Use rosin core, or a flux that is safe for electrical work.
    .
    .
  18. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

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    Had a brilliant late winter day last Sunday, so we went for a ride diverting down gravel roads where we could.

    As we crested the last major hill en route to the lake, the mature trees gave way to this view:

    [​IMG]

    First stop was the lake, which is all of an hour from home:

    [​IMG]

    Then we headed back the way we came...

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    ... to ride up a rough and fun forestry track to a fire lookout. No bike shot because the car park is surrounded by trees, but a short walk up the tramping track takes you to this clearing.

    [​IMG]

    All in all a great day out adventuring.
  19. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

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    During the day, the headlight on the XT gave up the ghost. We replaced the bulb tonight, but found a couple of issues.

    Firstly, the RHS screw on the headlight mount was AWOL. Secondly, the "headlight bulb holder" aka locking ring had come loose, so the bulb wasn't even sitting in the headlight fully. Interesting that in the last good few months I reckon the headlight has been flickering - I spend a lot of my riding time watching for the XT behind me. So it would have been moving around inside the headlight, losing focus, and also the missing screw was allowing movement including pointing the headlight too far to the left. Now it is super-bright and solid.

    As a result, from now on we will be checking the headlight bulb is correctly in place at each oil change. This bulb was last changed 16,000 km ago, and I know it was fitted correctly then (because I am a bit anal about lights).

    A third matter is that for some strange reason known only to the Japanese, the M6 screws mounting the headlight have 4 mm allen heads, rather than the standard 5 mm like the cowling screws. I've added Loctite 222 (purple low strength) to those screws to help them to stay in place. The replacement was a standard socket head I had spare, cut it down a bit to suit, but I will replace the other two with standard heads so you only need *ONE* tool to replace the headlight bulb. Will be helpful on the roadside if it happens.
    randypower likes this.
  20. ONE2NINE

    ONE2NINE Been here awhile

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    Had my new set of tires installed last week. Only have a handful of miles on them yet, but they seem to handle well for the riding I do. Dunlop D605’s.
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    MEDIC-0372, jimroid and randypower like this.