Where are your XT250's...let's see them.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MEDIC-0372, Nov 4, 2008.

  1. MitchG

    MitchG Iron Collector

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    Thanks for the reply, I considered the bar chop, but it may have just about made it with some rerouting, "maybe", but after I did a dry fit of everything(bark buster clamps, windshield clamps, heated grips, factory controls and switches, I had only enough handle bar left to cut off a 1/16th of an inch so the bar chop was a no go. Having said that, other than it looks like custom cables and brake hose, I'm very pleased with the new higher and wider bars as well as the windshield and grip warmers. Feels like a much bigger bike now and the body position is no longer cramped.
    Cal and randypower like this.
  2. MitchG

    MitchG Iron Collector

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    Yep, it's quite clear now I have no other option but longer custom cables and brake hose. So far, I think it's going to be worth it though.
  3. MitchG

    MitchG Iron Collector

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    Yes, thought of that last night, so if the WR250 cables have the same ends they "should be longer as stock due to the larger frame size and longer front suspension. If they work but are still too short, I know you can get extra long WR250 cables off the shelf from some vendors. I will run all the part numbers and scrap up all the pics I can of the terminal ends at the throttle tube and the carb/throttle body(I'll check all years). Still have my fingers crossed though. I'm just pulling the factory cables and brake hose now, so If the WR thing is a no go, I'll send the cables to Motion Pro and have a couple of sets made. As for thr brake hose, I looked and found my old custom hose guy is still up and running( HEL ), so will send him the brake hose to duplicate in a longer length.

    If I do go the custom cable/hose route, I'll have the vendors do a super detailed invoice with all fitting, lengths and orientations listed so if any one else needs to go this route it will just be cut n paste and spec the amount of length over stock you need.
    randypower likes this.
  4. randypower

    randypower Been here awhile

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    MitchG, good stuff. Thanks for sharing what you discover. I'd like to see pics of your new dashboard (bars, accessories, and windscreen) when done.
  5. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    I had a longer brake line made at Greenline hose here in Calgary dropped it off and then went for coffee they called an hour later and said it was ready. $45.00 I see they have locations in Edmonton also. There is a private guy here in Calgary who makes them also I have his name and number if you want it. Hel is here also
  6. Cyclepath

    Cyclepath Lost wanderer

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    most NAPA auto parts stores will make up custom length hydraulic cables. Just tell them it's for an off road quard or motorcycle as there is some stupid government laws regarding the use of highway or street legal vehicles. I have had several cables and hydraulic lines made by NAPA
    randypower likes this.
  7. MitchG

    MitchG Iron Collector

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    Ha! See, now I have a reason to run down to Calgary! I'll talk to Hel and Greenline on Monday, but if there are issues I may hit you up for the private guys contact info. Thanks.
  8. ONE2NINE

    ONE2NINE Been here awhile

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    Finding a bunch of conflicting info on an air box mod for the newer fuel injected models. Has anyone drilled a hole in the air box lid and seen an improvement? I’ve found a couple examples of people drilling a 1” hole in the lid and replacing with foam. Is it worthwhile?
  9. biker

    biker Adventurer

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    No
  10. Cyclepath

    Cyclepath Lost wanderer

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    It is not worth while. Don't do it. All your going to do id make your air intake noise louder. It gets plenty of air the way it is. it's not a high performance engine and if you punch holes in your air box to give it more air your computerized fool injection system will simple compensate for.
    Xiola_Blue likes this.
  11. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    I tried lifting up the airbox lid, by putting large nuts under it, around longer screws. Never noticed any power or noise difference. Eventually went back to the OEM design.
    Xiola_Blue likes this.
  12. dav

    dav Bonsai

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    Great day for a gallop.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  13. Lightyear68

    Lightyear68 Adventurer

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    Hoping to get some help from the XT community:

    I bought this XT250 with 1K and have ridden it another 1K so far. I don't recall hearing a clank when the engine is shut down until recently.

    Oil was 1/4 quart low--so I added until the oil view glass shows half. Still making the noise during shut down. Not always, but most of the time. Same noise shutting down in N or 1.

    Is this normal? Not sure if it's something to get checked out at the dealer, or the normal sound of shutting down.

    Here's the video. It's the clank at the very end of the shut down, that last sound heard.
  14. Andy_A

    Andy_A Adventurer

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    mine makes a very similar sound so I would say it is normal.
  15. biker

    biker Adventurer

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    Normal
  16. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Normal.
  17. Halifax614

    Halifax614 Misadventurer

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    Mine goes clunk too.

    On another matter, I have just had a second XT250 starter relay fail due un-soldered & corroded internal coil connections. Two different bikes;- carby one failed in 2016 at about 3 yrs old, the other EFI one recently at approx. 5 - 6 yrs. old. Signs are intermittent operation of the starter progressing to nil operation. Fault - finding with a meter showed 12v getting to the relay coil & a high resistance across it separately; a little jiggling of the connector & away she goes. Inspection showed slight green corrosion on the push-on terminal of the +ve wire in the plug. With the relay removed & on the bench it was easy to see similar problems with the external coil terminals. Removed the fuse mounting plastic fitting & carefully cut open the sealed relay to find corrosion & overheating evident on both coil wires where they were wrapped about 3/4 around their tags but totally un-soldered ex: factory. Of course it's not going to work for long like that....

    Dismantled view (@ 20%).jpg Here are the parts after the rear cover is removed

    Corrosion & no solder on terminals (@ 20%).jpg This shows the black, overheated & high resistance coil terminations

    Carefully pulled back the tabs, removed wire ends & extracted terminals, cleaned everything up to a shiny copper colour with emery & sandpaper, re-assembled & soldered as it should have been from day one. Now seeing about 4 or 5 ohms across the coil & a bench test confirmed proper optn. Glued it all back together with epoxy adhesive, re-tested OK & re-fitted to bike. All fine.
    Soldered (@ 20%).jpg

    Not good that it should happen in the first place; very poor quality control that the same faulty component is on machines that are perhaps 2 to 3 years apart in production. This repair fixed the problem with both items. The relay is manufactured by JIDECO & is common to many Yamaha automotive products. Who knows how many are like this? Must help their parts sales.....
    It so happened that after the first one failed back in 2016, I had bought a new spare (from the original manufacturer, though it came from Germany) on the internet at about 10% of the price that Yamaha charge out here. It is marked Yamaha 450/a14082600ux0528. The Yamaha factory part no. is 4YR-81940-02.
    I opened the new one up yesterday just to see:- what do you know? It was soldered.

    Note:- Edited to add Yamaha factory part no. as above.
  18. randypower

    randypower Been here awhile

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    Halifax, that's great info and pictures. Thanks for sharing. It will be useful to anyone coming across the same problem.

    Living in Texas with very hot summers, I'd think I'm more at risk than average.

    Is it possible the relays have always come soldered from the factory? I'm not an expert in electronics, but I understand that high heat can make solder evaporate.
  19. Halifax614

    Halifax614 Misadventurer

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    No; these were totally dry joints from day one;- not a trace of any other substance. It's true that solder joints can go brittle & open-circuit with age; seen it before on avionics circuit boards where you sometimes need to de-solder & then re-solder every damned component joint to solve an intermittent fault.
    Usual lead/tin solder melts at around 190C. Even Texas & Queensland don't get quite that warm [yet].
    Lightyear68 and randypower like this.
  20. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    Don't forget that electricity going through any substance will cause heat, and almost any connection or tight bend in the wire will cause extra resistance, and heating, so it's possible that energizing the solenoid has caused the solder to melt and dissipate. If I were going to re-solder those joints, I'd look for a high-temperature solder. I'm sure Halifax knows not to use acid core solder, but some others may need to be warned. The acid is N/G for electrical equipment. Use rosin core, or a flux that is safe for electrical work.
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